michaels'max

I have a 92' nissan maxima. Recently it would not start for no apparent reason at all. One morning I went out to the car and it wouldn't fire. It will turn over but not fire. I checked the ignition coil by touching the wire close to the engine block while someone else cranked the engine... nothing. I bought a new coil... nothing. I tried to have it jump started...nothing. battery is fine. I took it to a mechanic who diagnosed it as the power transistor, he tried to screw me out of $230.00 so it was "fu" and off to bap import auto parts I went. The part was only $59.00. I put it in the next day and it didn't start up instantly, after the 6th time cranking it, walla. I drove it around that day and it was fine, the battery was a little low from sitting for so long so I had it recharged and they checked the battery as well to see if it would hold a charge. it all checked out. I parked the car and the next morning it wouldn't start again (I live in Phoenix, AZ... it's not the weather). one thing I did notice is that after I put the power transistor in while i was having it jumped the + wire to the battery started smoking a little bit as if burning. It stopped though. After this I noticed the inside lights on door panel would not turn on and when the car ignition was off the automatic seat belts would not roll back down when you open the door. however, the car still drove at this time. I understand the possibilities include bad ecu, bad crank angle sensor, or possible bad wiring or fuse, and a small possibility that the part I purchased was ****ty (even though it was new). a little bit of history about the ecu, about 2 or 3 weeks ago the heater core leaked and I had coolant all over my carpeting. The nissan manufacturers convienently placed the ecu in the area where the heater core leaked. so I'm sure there is a possibility that it is the ecu. That and after the car wouldn't start I tried doing a diagnostics with the screw on the ecu, and I didn't get any of the led lights blinking.

I know I pretty much listed all the obvious and possible problems right here, what I'm looking for is perhaps a easy logical way to test any of these theories with minimal equipment. I don't have any electrical testers, voltage meter, ohmmeter ect., nor do I know how to use them. Is there any way I can test these things without taking it to a mechanic and having them diagnose the problem?

Wiking

Is there a way to test without tester? NO, sorry.

Buy "new" ECU from scrapyard. Before that buy 10$ multimeter, ask THE salesman how to measure ohms, voltage.

Then go and watch how a mech swaps, measures, and learn. Before all, Learn by reading some hundred posts here.

And btw: u must also get new heater core. Summa summarum: u may as well buy another similar working max with 800$, keep current as spares... take it apart and learn, sell parts and be 500$ on positive side

michaels'max

why do I "need" a new heater core? My understanding is that everything else is fine except I just won't have any heat as I have bypassed the heater core.

maxzella

Mike; I just had the same problem with my 90. It was the stupid ground on the distributor. There is a steel tab for the ground held on to the distributor base with a screw. With dissimilar metals they corrode. To fix it you need to remove dist. to access the screw. Make the rotor position first. Remove and clean both with a wire wheel and reinstall. To test it first try a jumper from the dist. base to battery ground, then try to start the car. Good luck

michaels'max

also if I buy another ecu What should I look for in terms of compatibility with what I already have. Is there a code or number on my current one that has to match or just any ecu out of the same make and model. also, roughly how much would the ecu cost at a scrapyard, and given the info I've provided what are my odds that it is the ecu? would the car crank if the ecu was out? also, looking at the ecu there are two separate metal cases are both jointly the ecu or is one something else?

michaels'max

on a scale of 1-10 1 being easy and 10 being hard as ****. keep in mind I am a novice this is my first vehicle. how hard is removing the distributor without screwing it up or something else.

internetautomar

iTrader: (30)

sounds like a blown fusible, or just one going bad.
you really need to pick up a simple VOM and then you can fairly quickly start to narrow down where the fault lies.
it's cheaper than buying an ECM

Wiking

Why u say this: "about 2 or 3 weeks ago the heater core leaked and I had coolant all over my carpeting. "

Bypass the engine an' start pushing... its that easy. BTW. heater is a necessary device to see, not to kill others.

Stop asking and start reading: I have all those questions answered on my web page. Pls just click on and dive into mystery. All Made For You.

http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/748507



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michaels'max

forgive me if I'm being retarted, but I can't make any sense of what your trying to say when you say: "Bypass the engine an' start pushing... its that easy. BTW. heater is a necessary device to see, not to kill others."

Wiking

Simplex: Windshield Heater is NECESSARY. Its needed to keep windshield clear. If u drive a car with forzen/moist nonclear windshield, u kill.

What I mean, if u bypass the basic security devices, why not bypass brakes and engine? Like the flintstones?

Dunno if u burned u ECU, but normally electronics fry when u water them. One indication is no leds. But check voltages. That cannot be done with a finger...
Again, check click on : http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/748507/15

Dont stop there, read other pages. Get u THE service manual -------> its all there how to! Read. Just read. Please. Dont write, read. Please. Then ask/decide whattodo.

Could be also as internetautomator says, just a fuse. All depends how u ECU was watered. ECU has to fit u model, when/if buying ask for return right.

maxzella

Mike to answer one of your questions.also, looking at the ecu there are two separate metal cases are both jointly the ecu or is one something else?)
The one on top is for the auto trans the one on the bottom is your ECU.

maxzella

Almost forgot, if you do end up needing an ECU, I have one from a 92 with auto trans.

internetautomar

iTrader: (30)

I was looking for one last week

maxzella

Do you still need one?

michaels'max

how much for the ecu?

maxzella

$40.00 plus shipping.

michaels'max

sweet, I'll let you know if I need it after I take my max to the dealership tomorrow. thanx.

Wiking

I suggest reading before writing for u also. Your repeated "new" info is without pictures.

For you, Again, read, check click on : http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/748507/15

Now after reading, add more info for us to see.