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RF high beam doesn't work?

Old Mar 9, 2005 | 07:25 PM
  #1  
5 ltr. beater's Avatar
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From: Fontana, CA
RF high beam doesn't work?

Just like it says. Is there a fuse panel that controls the high beams for my car? I used to have a 240SX and it had the same problem. Never solved it though. Now I have the same prob. on my Max. Any suggestions?
Old Mar 9, 2005 | 07:27 PM
  #2  
90MAXGMG's Avatar
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I've got the same prob... and I've checked all fuses under the hood(except those wierd ones that I can't take out) and inside the cabin
Old Mar 9, 2005 | 07:28 PM
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did you check the actual bulb itself? Sometimes the highbeams blow while the regulars still work.
Old Mar 9, 2005 | 07:31 PM
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Originally Posted by garbury
did you check the actual bulb itself? Sometimes the highbeams blow while the regulars still work.
yeah, i actually replaced it cause i thought that was the problem. but no luck.
Old Mar 9, 2005 | 07:37 PM
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From: South New Jersey
check your harness, there is two hot wires going in there, one for the low and one for the high, I think the high cord might be shorted/cut somewhere. If you already check that, then I'm screwed
Old Mar 9, 2005 | 11:05 PM
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LvR
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From: Pretoria - South Africa
Same problem here - very short while ago.

All wiring/connections turned out to be good - eventually found the answer to the issue being the steering column light switch assembly having burnt and flaky contacts inside - cleaning didn't help - replacement is the only "preferred" solution.

In my case the assembly is horribly expensive and not available immediately (special order for South African vehicles!) so:

Modified the front lighting wiring so as to use 2 extra relays to switch dim and brights directly from the battery ISO through the puny little steering column contacts a mile away from the actual lights - those puny contacts now carry only the relay switching current of about 200 milliamp and they should last and not burn further a lot longer...............
Old Mar 9, 2005 | 11:57 PM
  #7  
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Originally Posted by LvR
Modified the front lighting wiring so as to use 2 extra relays to switch dim and brights directly from the battery ISO through the puny little steering column contacts a mile away from the actual lights - those puny contacts now carry only the relay switching current of about 200 milliamp and they should last and not burn further a lot longer...............
That is typical in any vehicle, burned contacts because of mfg trying to build as cheap as possible. No some start to cry of 'bad maxima'... Issue is global: manufacturers try to pinch any relay cost off. Its valid up to a point. Building everlasting cars is not BUSINESS.

So to keep on the road, rustproofing plus few add on relays keeps satisfied. Another one is an add on relay for starter solenoid, source of worst spikes in any car. Those spikes burn contacts in ign switch. Just matter of time when no start...

Btw. Adding relays for newbies is one of the most satisfying DIY jobs...

I have only two relay load on the switch, one of the first mods on any car I own. Also lights shine like new:










click on :http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/748507/11

.
Old Mar 10, 2005 | 11:55 AM
  #8  
subs1000w's Avatar
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i had the same problem it was the switch also
Old Mar 11, 2005 | 09:02 AM
  #9  
maximapitko's Avatar
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it's the switch....that's the reason every time one shows up on ebay everybody bids like hell....
Old Mar 11, 2005 | 09:19 AM
  #10  
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try to find one in the local u-pull-it yards... Should be cheap, possibly cheaper than buying extra wires and relays to rig the harnes to work correctly.
Old Mar 11, 2005 | 09:24 AM
  #11  
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Glad to hear a solution! I have the same problem. at the same time my dash lights went out and so did my corners.
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