Replaced all of the injectors, and besides a vacuum hose and rotted hoses, everything seemed fine. Wrong! Missing at idle which could be the vacuum hose that Wiking has been helping with, but gas is leaking between the engine block and exhaust manifold. I can see the leak and was thinking it was originating elsewhere, but it's not. The #3 and #5 plugs have unburned gas on them as if they are not firing at all. Brand new wires, plugs, distributor cap and rotor.

Don't know what going on there.

 

did you replace the o'rings?
AND lube them before installation?

 

Simplex tings on complex issues. All tingies out again, and new try. Better listen what internetautomator has in store...

 

Yes, replaced all of the O rings and holder, but did not lube them. First I heard of lubing them. Can't find any leaks from around the O rings on the rear of the engine.

Wiking, are you saying I should remove and reinstall the injectors?

 

If you don't lube the 0-rings, you can bind/tear them upon installation. If you do that, fuel just goes around the injector and down into the head. One should always lube the o-rings and carefully install the injectors. It has to hold back 34-43 psi of pressure all the time.

It's probably leaking into the head, filling it up and out past an open exhaust valve. Then leaking down the block somewhere.

 

Listen to Jeff. Me yellow newbie: only 80k on my maxim... better just shutup an listen on this issue. [Ask about carburetors:-]

 

Thanks Jeff, that certainly sounds like what's happening. While I hate like hell to pull them back out, I think I have no choice. Will motor oil work for the lubing?

 

I guess, I used vasoline but you just use a very small amount. Just to coat the oring. #3 and #5 are the two fronts right? On a VE, it's cake. But I think on a VG, the manifold has to come off?

 

I'd use the motor oil myself, it's thinner than the Vaseline.
no comment on jeff having vaseline :X

 

thedelman: I have a very similar problem. Except none are missing. The car drives great but i have raw gas right by the injectors. I had the all 6 o rings replace. And I even quizzed the guy "So you just put the o rings in? Nothing Special?" To which he replied "Well first you lube them with oil" So I felt confident that he knew his stuff. He replaced all 6 even though 3 were leaking and the same 3 are still leaking. He's gonna take a look tonight and probably have to end up replacing the injectors, but I really have to make sure this is the problem fir$t. What actually connects to the top of the injector? Is it a rubber hose? I see in the worthless Hayes manual that they show a rubber hose connecting to each injector, is this the case? Is it possible that the hose is damaged?


Through the stickies I see a site that sells rebuilt injectors for $35 each (with a lifetime warranty). What do you guys think, should I trust rebuilts or buy brand new?

No offense internetautoma, but you may be biased towards new, considering I'd most proabably buy them from you! By the way quick shipping on those belts (which are going in tonight)

Sorry for the hijack.

 

as I've said before on the matter of rebuilt VS new:
New have an updated design over the originals.
Rebuilt injectors cannot fix an electrical malfunction, only if the injector is clogged can they "fix" it.
and do you really want to do the labor multiple times because the lifetime warranty injectors failed during their lifetime?

 

internetautom: That's exactly what I was thinking (about the multiple times) If you have to do it more than once, than it's just not worth it. Ill keep that in mind when I decide.

 

Is there a way to differentiate between OEM injectors, and the "updated" ones?? Are the part numbers different?? internetautomart??

 

OEM bought now from a dealer should be updated.
the updated ones moved the fuel inlet further down on the injector.
Part # remains the same

 

Yeah unfortunatly cutting and o-ring is all too common. Another tip is to clean the fuel rail where the injector sits with some acetone and a q-tip to remove any residue.