quick question on repainting -
03-15-2005, 09:06 AM
#1
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2002
Posts: 541
quick question on repainting -
I looked through the FAQ above here - but I had some questions.
I just need to do a simple/relatively inexpensive paint job - my hood is white, my fender is black, my car is gold. I don't quite have the money for a full/great paint job, but I want it a simmilar color - and thats about it. What should I do?
Apperantly, talking to people, I do not need to shave down to the metal, just a quick sand paper, reducer/sealer, paint, and clear. Would this be my best option?
(don't need perfect paint job, just reasonable until more money)
I just need to do a simple/relatively inexpensive paint job - my hood is white, my fender is black, my car is gold. I don't quite have the money for a full/great paint job, but I want it a simmilar color - and thats about it. What should I do?
Apperantly, talking to people, I do not need to shave down to the metal, just a quick sand paper, reducer/sealer, paint, and clear. Would this be my best option?
(don't need perfect paint job, just reasonable until more money)
03-15-2005, 09:16 AM
#2
Originally Posted by doomtoo
I looked through the FAQ above here - but I had some questions.
I just need to do a simple/relatively inexpensive paint job - my hood is white, my fender is black, my car is gold. I don't quite have the money for a full/great paint job, but I want it a simmilar color - and thats about it. What should I do?
Apperantly, talking to people, I do not need to shave down to the metal, just a quick sand paper, reducer/sealer, paint, and clear. Would this be my best option?
(don't need perfect paint job, just reasonable until more money)
I just need to do a simple/relatively inexpensive paint job - my hood is white, my fender is black, my car is gold. I don't quite have the money for a full/great paint job, but I want it a simmilar color - and thats about it. What should I do?
Apperantly, talking to people, I do not need to shave down to the metal, just a quick sand paper, reducer/sealer, paint, and clear. Would this be my best option?
(don't need perfect paint job, just reasonable until more money)
if you just want it cheap then head to maaco or similar shops and have them shoot the hood and fender. doing it yourself is no where near cost effective for a one time job. if you had a gun and just needed paint and etc...then that's a different story.
you do need to sand down the paint (at least to the primer - assuming primer is in good shape) and start shooting paint from there (primer, base, clear, etc etc). remember...NOTHING with body work is "quick"...everything takes time and you need to do it correctly.
03-15-2005, 09:34 AM
#3
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Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: EU Scandinavia
Posts: 4,323
Originally Posted by DanNY
... remember...NOTHING with body work is "quick"...everything takes time and you need to do it correctly.
Later, nastiest is to always find new warped spots mirroring in the sunset.
03-15-2005, 10:14 AM
#4
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2002
Posts: 541
It'll be $250 for the supplies (the gun + $140 for the paint, clear, and hardener and primer), but at earl sciewb - it's $300 for the whole car to get painted. Which color should I get it - or what color woudl be best on the maxima?
03-15-2005, 10:19 AM
#5
definitely go with the $300 earl paint job
Painting sounds easy but really isn't. I know the $300 job wont be great but it'll probably be better than what you'd end up with (I could be wrong) unless you spend a LOT of time researching, studying and practicing.
You could do some prep work like removing lights and other trim pieces so they dont get overspray on things.
Stick with the stock color unless you want to add a lot of extra labor painting door jams, under the trunk lid, and in the engine bay.
Painting sounds easy but really isn't. I know the $300 job wont be great but it'll probably be better than what you'd end up with (I could be wrong) unless you spend a LOT of time researching, studying and practicing.
You could do some prep work like removing lights and other trim pieces so they dont get overspray on things.
Stick with the stock color unless you want to add a lot of extra labor painting door jams, under the trunk lid, and in the engine bay.
03-15-2005, 10:23 AM
#6
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2002
Posts: 541
Yeah, I'll probably have it painted by them - unless someone can convince me otherwise. I really like the gold color on the car, but might also go with some kind of silver color. Both bumpers are fading, so I think it'd be worth it to just get the whole car painted for $50 more. I live in AZ, so black probably wouldn't be the best color, but which color should I go for then? (and any color I get by them won't be stock color - they only have like 9 different colors to choose from)
03-15-2005, 10:32 AM
#7
Originally Posted by doomtoo
Yeah, I'll probably have it painted by them - unless someone can convince me otherwise. I really like the gold color on the car, but might also go with some kind of silver color. Both bumpers are fading, so I think it'd be worth it to just get the whole car painted for $50 more. I live in AZ, so black probably wouldn't be the best color, but which color should I go for then? (and any color I get by them won't be stock color - they only have like 9 different colors to choose from)
03-15-2005, 10:37 AM
#8
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Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: EU Scandinavia
Posts: 4,323
Check color from this great thread, nobody can guess u taste: "The great 3rd gen picture thread ( Multi-page thread 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 )"
I am always for DIY. Go for it, what is life if not going to something where u have never been?
But yes, practice a lot (?with cheap paint): sprayed paint thickness is one of the key questions. During painting, some places will start to roll down: they say its ruined, but its not---> Practice sweeping/correcting immediately. Superlon foam is magic tool.
How u move u hand, distance etc etc. Some paints forgive a lot, some not. As Craig said, research that whole issue.
DIY paintacar is very satisfying job, but forget any timetables. U must have very good place to do it, no dust, nobugs around...
They say third house starts to be near what was wanted, so its with pain ting.
I am always for DIY. Go for it, what is life if not going to something where u have never been?
But yes, practice a lot (?with cheap paint): sprayed paint thickness is one of the key questions. During painting, some places will start to roll down: they say its ruined, but its not---> Practice sweeping/correcting immediately. Superlon foam is magic tool.
How u move u hand, distance etc etc. Some paints forgive a lot, some not. As Craig said, research that whole issue.
DIY paintacar is very satisfying job, but forget any timetables. U must have very good place to do it, no dust, nobugs around...
They say third house starts to be near what was wanted, so its with pain ting.
03-15-2005, 11:58 AM
#10
nothing else for me to post that hasnt already been posted. The only thing I will add is that I disagree with Dan on one thing. It is not necessary to sand down to the primer. If its just one coat of paint (factory paint that has never been repainted) and you dont care about leveling the paint for a nice smooth finish then just scuffing it is fine (a maroon scotch brite does a great job).
You run into paint mil thickness problems where there is more than one coat of paint but one coat of factory paint is fine to paint over without sanding it all off.
This advice if for a quick regular paint job and not a slick show quality job of course. For a show or even just a really nice paint job you would do much more than that.
I dont see how these shops can really make much money with what they charge. I spent around $550 (havent finished adding the receipts) just for supplies when I painted Craigs Prelude and that was using inexpensive paint (PPG Omni).
You run into paint mil thickness problems where there is more than one coat of paint but one coat of factory paint is fine to paint over without sanding it all off.
This advice if for a quick regular paint job and not a slick show quality job of course. For a show or even just a really nice paint job you would do much more than that.
I dont see how these shops can really make much money with what they charge. I spent around $550 (havent finished adding the receipts) just for supplies when I painted Craigs Prelude and that was using inexpensive paint (PPG Omni).
03-15-2005, 12:17 PM
#12
Originally Posted by Wiking
...and that your paint looks better than factory paint. Gre!at; not your first one.
"how these shops can really make" ...they get their paint with 75% off. Paint really at factory is dirt cheap.
"how these shops can really make" ...they get their paint with 75% off. Paint really at factory is dirt cheap.
My guess is that $300 paint job would also be single stage instead of BC/CC as well.
I can get a gallon of SS paint, reducer and hardener for $100.
03-15-2005, 12:30 PM
#13
If you get it painted at Earl/Paint-n-Body/Maaco, etc. then make sure you talk to the guy a lot before they paint it, and dont let anything slide. Talk to the manager and let him know you want it done right, and that you are planning on keeping this car for some time, and you WILL bring it back if any paint chips, cracks, etc. within the warranty period. I would recommend washing your car with some dishsoap really good before you take it there. i have heard that they have even painted on leaves before. And when you get your car back check EVERYTHING. make sure there is NO overspray. And most likely, there will be some, so make sure they fix it right away.
just my .02
just my .02
03-15-2005, 12:33 PM
#14
Member
Join Date: Jun 2003
Posts: 172
Originally Posted by doomtoo
It'll be $250 for the supplies (the gun + $140 for the paint, clear, and hardener and primer), but at earl sciewb - it's $300 for the whole car to get painted. Which color should I get it - or what color woudl be best on the maxima?
Make sure you take before and after pics....
Good luck.
03-15-2005, 12:33 PM
#15
I think what you can do is a lot of prep work yourself, then call a number of body shops to see where you can get the best deal. Or at least see how much it is at Maaco or Earl Schieb to have them do base coat/clear coat. Cheap single stage paint is almost temporary.
Is the gold portion of your car still in good shape? If it is, it might be more cost effective to have that part professionally polished, then have the mismatched parts painted to match at a body shop. This is what a shop would do if the car were brought to them wrecked. Only, you don't need to pay for parts, only paint and labor. It might be worth a shot calling around on this.
Is the gold portion of your car still in good shape? If it is, it might be more cost effective to have that part professionally polished, then have the mismatched parts painted to match at a body shop. This is what a shop would do if the car were brought to them wrecked. Only, you don't need to pay for parts, only paint and labor. It might be worth a shot calling around on this.
03-15-2005, 12:54 PM
#16
Originally Posted by awsm66
nothing else for me to post that hasnt already been posted. The only thing I will add is that I disagree with Dan on one thing. It is not necessary to sand down to the primer. If its just one coat of paint (factory paint that has never been repainted) and you dont care about leveling the paint for a nice smooth finish then just scuffing it is fine (a maroon scotch brite does a great job).
You run into paint mil thickness problems where there is more than one coat of paint but one coat of factory paint is fine to paint over without sanding it all off.
This advice if for a quick regular paint job and not a slick show quality job of course. For a show or even just a really nice paint job you would do much more than that.
I dont see how these shops can really make much money with what they charge. I spent around $550 (havent finished adding the receipts) just for supplies when I painted Craigs Prelude and that was using inexpensive paint (PPG Omni).
You run into paint mil thickness problems where there is more than one coat of paint but one coat of factory paint is fine to paint over without sanding it all off.
This advice if for a quick regular paint job and not a slick show quality job of course. For a show or even just a really nice paint job you would do much more than that.
I dont see how these shops can really make much money with what they charge. I spent around $550 (havent finished adding the receipts) just for supplies when I painted Craigs Prelude and that was using inexpensive paint (PPG Omni).
03-15-2005, 02:26 PM
#19
matching the gold (CG2?) metallic color for the maxima seems to be a big pain. i've been through three companies now, including paintscratch.com, and they have all failed to come even close to the correct tint. i've matched it up to areas of paint that have never seen sun or wear and still, not even close.
03-15-2005, 02:35 PM
#20
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2004
Posts: 148
Originally Posted by DanNY
hmmm...is that adding additional reducer to the paint to blend? mike?
Yup Mike is the name.
03-15-2005, 02:44 PM
#22
Originally Posted by Hemphire
I heard they use somekind of acid and it blends the paint. Covers scrtaches dings and brightens it up. Much cheaper than getting the car repainted.I wounder if this is any good.
Yup Mike is the name.
Yup Mike is the name.
03-25-2005, 09:48 AM
#24
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Mar 2005
Posts: 6
i just picked up my car from Maaco. i had it painted with some body work (taking out the dents/scratches/fading bumpers...the front bumper was a different color aftermarket one), and using the same stock charcoal gray color...and they did a great job. i went for the 3rd stage paint job instead of the base one....it all ran me about $900; even saved $500.
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