So I've still only got one e36 projector in, and I've tweaked it a lot and still can't get it to sit flush enough for me..so I'm definately looking into flush mounting them..

I don't wanna use the Wade covers because I'm not interested in plastic at all, I think the glass housing on the projectors looks very nice and I don't want to use plastic, although I know many have turned out very good (James' for example).

I was looking at my stock headlight that I took out and thought how much more flush can you get than stock, right? I know the big problem with using the stock glass housing is that they aren't "clear." Here's my question:

I don't know a lot about glass, but I remember Maximan190 sanded/buffed his plastic bumper lenses...Is it possible to do this with glass? The indentations and lines are all on the inside of the cover as far as I can tell, and was wondering if anyone can give me any insight as far as if I can sand these off (probably a lot of work) and buffing them (or something) to get it clear again, then I could attempt flush mounting them...

 

I guess its better practice first on bottles. When u can do whatever on scrap glass, then maybe u're ready to brittle u lamps...

Can be done. I've played some, and I am sure I cannot. Mirroring your text, I quess youre none better, at the moment

PlasTics is reALLY smtg different from glass...

 

What's wrong with plastic?

I know the Wade's werent intended to be the actual headlight housings, but then again, virtually all newer cars use plastic lenses/housings nowadays, so I dont think there's anything to be weary of

 

you can forget about sanding that down to make it work. It would take forever and would probably break. I sanded just some small ridges off of the corners of the glass inner lens of the e36 lights and it took forever PLUS its not perfectly clear. you would have to do a lot of sanding and polishing to make them work.

You are looking at 1million hours on one headlight cover lol. Seriously just put that idea out of your head.

The best thing would be to find a glass maker and have them make you a match of the stock cover with clear glass.

 

Any idea on how much this would cost? How would they do this just to get an idea...also would they have to have those 3 nubs on the front of the cover? what are those all about?

 

I have no idea...I am not a glass maker lol.

You just have to call around and find out. The main problem is having someone that can make it thick enough. Just imagine how a regular glass cover would completely break when a rock hits it.

Just go plastic and seal it like James did and you will be fine. No reason to fear plastic.

 

Plastic is good stuff, the wade covers seem to be very durable. Their not that hard to flush up, just takes a little time and epoxy.

Glass just isn't an option.... Unless you know someone who owned a glass company that made and actaully molded them. But it wouldn't be cheap.

 

I guess I'll be looking for some Wade covers...any suggestions on where to get them? I googled it and came up with this:

http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/pe...rand=wade_auto

$44 seems a little much so I'm wondering where you guys got yours, how much you paid, etc.

As far as installation, I've already taken the glass cover off of my projectors before so I know I'll need to do that...these covers come with the corner light cover too, right? I'll need to hack that off then?

Epoxy, I've heard of it but am not too sure of what it is...like a resin/sap type something, any info on that would be nice...

James I'm interested in how you did yours because I'd want sealed lights, I'm not going to settle for something that looks good on the outside but then hazes and gets condensated...any tips on how to install them (Mike/James/Others) by who have done it would be awesome..

 

I got them for $40 shipped from some site I found on yahoo shopping
They come as a cover for headlights and corners. Most people (besides therealgoon) cut off the corner part since it looks kinda weird over the normal corners.
Epoxy is basically an adhesive. There are tons of differents kinds. On my covers, I just used some goo stuff that was clear (kinda like shoo goo if you've ever used that). They have lots to choose from at any auto parts store or Home Depot. Any general purpose one should work fine for this since it's not a high-stress application.
To seal the lights, you will need to make sides out of some ABS plastic or whatever you want. Then you'll need to epoxy it all to seal it. I think James also used some silicone sealant around all the cracks to make sure it was sealed for good.

 

These pics are in no particular order (hopefully this works properly)

http://s19.yousendit.com/d.aspx?id=2...Q0AXGBRHTMGS5L

I ended up using a friggin buttload of 'plastic weld' (the two part stuff that Pepboys sells), a rubbery type epoxy that I got at a grocery store, silicone window type sealant that I used in the inside seals. I also used a tad bit of bondo on the top of the lights

I made the lenses onto the e36's, tested them... they leaked/fogged up as soon as I washed the car, so I cut them off where it meets the e36 housing (imagine the e36 housing as the 'lid' and the Wade covers/my fabrication as the rest of the 'box'), and re-inforced all the inside joints with more plastic weld, and then this is where I used the silicone on top of that (unfortunately I have no pics of this part). You have to be really careful doing this though because if you get ANYTHING on the Wade cover you're screwed.. so be sure to continually tape/mask it off.

Then to make sure my 'lidless box' (so to speak) was watertight, I filled my sink up with water and submerged the 'box' for a half hour or so, but not deep enough where the water would spill over the top (imagine a boat with no deck.. and making sure the hull doesnt leak).

Then put the 'box' (lense) back on the 'lid' (e36 housing)... I plastic welded the seams together, then covered the seams with the rubbery type epoxy that I got at a grocery store, which acts as the waterproofing. Then the top of the lenses got a tad bit of Bondo like I said previously.. which I still need to go back over with some finer grit sandpaper..