Dash Light went out...
#1
Dash Light went out...
is there a fuse or relay for the dash lights. I tried to install a radio yesterday and I think I burned a fuse somewere I checked the fuse box near and nothing was burned there. Is there an internal one somewhere? My dash lights (the ones that come on at night) on the spcluster guages and the one on the A/C heater unit dont come on
any help?
any help?
#7
Some one already told you guys what the problem is:
CHECK YOUR TAIL LIGHTS/BREAK LIGHTS
if your bulbs are blown replace them and your inside lights will work. The dash lights go out for safety reasons (so you would know your break lights are out)
Your clock is a diff issues, check stikies for repair info. you would have to resolder something inside clock...
CHECK YOUR TAIL LIGHTS/BREAK LIGHTS
one of your taillight bulb harnesses might be melting it self... an easy 2.99 fix if so.
Your clock is a diff issues, check stikies for repair info. you would have to resolder something inside clock...
#11
Originally Posted by pito11213
Well turns out that the circuit board that is behind the theft warning box was blown. I replaced that and the bulbs and now all the dash lights are on. The clock was off because who ever had the car before never plugged it back in.
#14
Well the cluster lights were out and so was the clock. So I pulled the dash off to see what was going on. I checked out the relay box which is a circuit board in a white box located on the driver side right behind the theft warning box. There were burn marks on the circuit board itself. When I replaced the box with a junkyard one the lights were working. I just had to replace so bulbs and connectors since who ever had the car wired in some pillar guages and used the bulb as 12 volt source. I might put the guages back in but no big rush.
#15
holy crap, 40 bucks for a lil white plastic box with 15 years old circuit board inside? I got mine for 5 bucks lol. plus, if you're good at soldering, you can resolder the burnt line and it will work again. Its usually the traces that will be burnt off, and not the components themselves.
#17
Supporting Maxima.org Member
iTrader: (21)
Join Date: May 2001
Location: Toronto, Canada
Posts: 1,179
Glad this post came up. I had been searching for days for an answer to this problem. Got all the same advice with regard to brake light bulbs being out.
Turned out I also had a fried circuit board on the Time Control Unit (white box behind the theft warning device). What a huge drag it was isolating this -- but it feels so good to finally have gotten this solved. Fortunately, I was able to repair the board and resolder the connections.
Turned out I also had a fried circuit board on the Time Control Unit (white box behind the theft warning device). What a huge drag it was isolating this -- but it feels so good to finally have gotten this solved. Fortunately, I was able to repair the board and resolder the connections.
#20
Originally Posted by hadman
.... What a huge drag it was isolating this -- but it feels so good to finally have gotten this solved. Fortunately, I was able to repair the board and resolder the connections.
Still, I did draw to that box a red line for u on the schema, so pls come on and tell now what was exactly the problem? Which component? Still I guess u problem was the trivial 9in 10 case: plain pure solder prbl as so many over and over explain here, and point out time and time again... Oh boy, and thanks.
#21
Supporting Maxima.org Member
iTrader: (21)
Join Date: May 2001
Location: Toronto, Canada
Posts: 1,179
Well it's too late for me to take pictures, but you're right I should have.
In any case, I couldn't tell you what part I specifically repaired on the circuit board except to say it was smoked and the connection was broken.
I cleaned it up (very carefully) and resoldered.
Sorry Wiking. I didn't even notice the schema attachment. For me anyway, "little white box" (Time Control Unit) was a lot faster than the FSM schematics anyway.
In any case, I couldn't tell you what part I specifically repaired on the circuit board except to say it was smoked and the connection was broken.
I cleaned it up (very carefully) and resoldered.
Sorry Wiking. I didn't even notice the schema attachment. For me anyway, "little white box" (Time Control Unit) was a lot faster than the FSM schematics anyway.
#22
Originally Posted by hadman
Well it's too late for me to take pictures, but you're right I should have...
Here's my ASCD speed ctrl board:
http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/748507/19
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