joe4

ill try to make this short and detailed. i have a 92 ve auto. these past three days the car will cut off on me at idle. it doesnt do it all the time just every couple of stoplights or so. it doesnt stall out. it will drop from 800 rpm and cut straight off. if i keep my foot on the gas it will maintain itself to not cut off. the other thing it does is sometimes while im driving, it acts like it wants to cut off, sort of like the car bucking. and i have to stomp on the gas for the car to stop and catch back to driving normal. and even sometimes when i step on the gas, its almost like theres no reaction. the rpms will remain at whatever rpm the car started acting up on and remain there until it decides to show reaction or decides to cut off in the middle of the road. the funny part about it is, everytime it cuts off, it will start right back up on a dime with no hesitation. now could you all give me some general things to take a look at, and leave the filter off because it was just replaced. im leaning torward bad fuel pump but not sure. i appreciate your help.also will a pump from a 89 vg work because i have access to a free one if needed

joe4

ttt plea1992

Maxzilla91

i used to have that problem, my dumb *** mechanic wasn't able to fix it, and the problem worsened to completely stalling in the middle of driving...

check ECU...in my case, my ECU told me it was the MAF, i replaced it and all was fine... but it could be other things as well...

Jeff92se

iTrader: (82)

Probably not the fuel pump. Why would it keep starting right up?

Probably an idle air control valve or anyone of the 5-6 other things it could be.

bhunter

iTrader: (3)

If it actually dies, ign coil relay or ECCS relay. If it stalls, bucks or stutters, look for coil packs, MAF, IAAC, etc.

Tarzan

his simptoms are not like yours and mine. his sounds rather like MAF, throttle position sensor, EGR temp sensor - read the codes!!!

Cliff Clavin

iTrader: (11)

test all of your coil packs. It sounds like a cracked one. My idle fluctuated quite a bit when I had a cracked one in front. MrGone and I taped it up and it got a little better. Then I replaced it and the idle was very smooth.

My car only did the stalling/bucking thing at wide open throttle and it was one of the rear ones that was bad.

internetautomar

iTrader: (30)

it is possible that your lockup solenoid isn't releasing at the stop.

joe4

also i did leave out another detail i thought may could have something to do with this. i bought mapco gas the day before it started cutting off. it didnt act up none that day. but the next morning when warmed it up is when it all began. im wondering if this is a case of bad gas. but i wouldnt have thought that bad gas would last so long since i have put gas in the car about 4 times since then. also is there a way to clean my maf for maintenance. and can someone link me to the knock sensor resistor post, because even before all of this the max has been feeling sluggish as hell. and i know it can do better.

Maxzilla91

like we said... check ecu code..

joe4

well the check engine light was not on. or it doesnt have to be on to throw a code.
Update: i went to exxon and filled up with 93 octane, and a bottle of HEET. so far this morning it has not hesitated or cut off. if i can make it through the day like this, we will conclude it as a case of terrible gas. but i still would love to read a post on the ks resistor, so i can decide if i want to try it out. i really would like to have my car back right before i throw the 22's back on for the summer. please link me to it.

Alex_V

Bad gas might just be worsening/showing a problem. My mom said shes used cheap gas in the max b4 i got it from her and some times when she used cheap gas it acted wierd. A tank later with mobil it was fine. I only use mobil now.

~Alex

joe4

well i cut off about 1 time today, which is a WHOLE lot better than what it has been these past couple of days. so i think i might be on a road to recovery. but can someone please link me to the ks resistor post.

diiesel21

iTrader: (4)

how you check for a cracked one?

confused1096

I had a 2nd gen. Maxima that used to do that and it turned out to be the fuel pressure regulator. My '92 Max hasn't done this except on start up.

joe4

well ive been on the highway 3 times, and had no problems. but for some reason when i accelerate coming out of a turn on the street itll buck for a second until i ease off the gas then press back down and it will be normal. and also can i please get a link to the ks resistor write up please

Pyrophilus

My 2001 VQ pathfinder LE stuttered at traffic lights and would putter and die. After ruling out everything else, I assumed it was MAF. I took it to dealer (was still under warranty), and suggested they check MAF, they told me to get a TB cleaning first to start things... They wouldn't touch the car unless I paid for a TB cleaning. I got it done, and then the dealer called to let me know that they figured out the problem to be faulty MAF... Go figure.

Anyway, it could be bunch of things (IAC, MAF, fuel pressure reg, fuel pump, coilpacks (VE), etc...), but I'd check the IAC valve and the MAF. MAF's are cheap on ebay (hope they are working), so you might just want to buy one and try it on your car. Last time I asked, the gurus here told me that VE and VG have identical MAF's. Also, I am guessing that if your problem was with fuel line/delivery, the engine should not start up immediately after it stalls.

I believe a dead MAF cannot be "cleaned" back to life.

Pyrophilus

When the MAF on my VQ (01 pathfinder) went, generic code scanners did NOT report MAF. It only stated that engine was running rich.

As for dealers (I dunno if I believe them), they also told me that there were no codes (check engine light would reset if I drive 8-10 times) when I brought the car in. except rich air/fuel mixture.

justinlarsen

I have a very similar thing happen to me and a new altonator fixed the problem. Does it seem like you have any power problems with the car (I.E. Power Windows roll up slow, dim head lights, ect.)

greggie195

iTrader: (1)

I had a similar problem with my 200SX. I beleived and still do to this day that water was getting into my gas, I dont know how. But I would use isopropanol water remover once every 2 months or so and the bucking completely stopped. But it had to be isoprop. Methanol did not do the trick. Supposidly with the addition of 10% ethanol to the gas, here in the peoples republic of NY, any little amount of water will gel up and cause problems. One bottle of isoprop (I believe HEET makes it as well) cured it right up!

5 ltr. beater

I had the same problem on my car when I first bought it. it would just die for no reason at idle, and then, when I would drive, the rpm's would get all erractic and I'd have to floor it to get it straight again. this would'nt happen all the time, but most of the time. So I just replaced the ECU and haven't had a problem with ther car since. I honestly think your ECU is bad, even though, there were no codes on my ECU to let me know that it was bad.