New 1/4 mile record for the fastest NA VE Auto!
#41
Originally Posted by Bryan H
do what you have to do, but remember, can you undo it if you screw up?
the stock manifolds will never flow as much as tuned headers. they were never designed too.
how about doing a 5spd swap and shave the 3 tenths off you need to hit 13's?
try a larger plug gap
hotter plugs
msd ignition?
move the battery to the back, run the air filter out the front of the car {IE remove the headlight} have you done an a/f pull on a dyno to see where you could do some tweaking at?
110 octane
im giving you free hints here homie
MDS ignition, I have looked into. After doing some research on the VE coil packs, they produce a lot of spark. And I am able to strengthen my spark with the ZEMulator if I need to.
Battery to the trunk is the last thing I will do NA. The only reason I am going to move it is to install my turbo setup. Which makes more room in my engine bay.
And I don't want to downgrade to a 5spd transmission, which will make me slower in the 1/4 mile once I get my turbo setup properly. But for NA purposes and lots of practice, it could shave 3 tenths with a good clutch and slicks.
I can look into hotter plugs. That is actually something that I haven't thought about for a quick day at the track with race fuel and advanced timing. You just suggest one step hotter if I have my octane rating at 98 points? I mix in 100 octane with the little bit of 93 that might still remain in my tank. I can do 110 octane, but I hesitate to put in leaded race fuel b/c of my wideband and stock o2 sensor. It tends to burn those up faster.
Thanks for your help.
#45
Originally Posted by D-sta
I know just pulling your leg. So is this the forever project or something coming along in the future.
#46
Definitely a good idea to go built auto for Turbo...I ran a semi built auto in my (now my wife's) '93 Altima w/TC and Max Tuning street/track VB upgrade and that thing would easily chirp second gear even before the big mods....plus I always loved the feel of a torquey engine and an auto kicking down into passing gear.....
Oh and excuse my ignorance (don't know much about 3rd gens) but would you elaborate some more about the var intake setup?? I love hearing about other folks tinkering....
Jeremy
Oh and excuse my ignorance (don't know much about 3rd gens) but would you elaborate some more about the var intake setup?? I love hearing about other folks tinkering....
Jeremy
#47
Originally Posted by niceguy
Definitely a good idea to go built auto for Turbo...I ran a semi built auto in my (now my wife's) '93 Altima w/TC and Max Tuning street/track VB upgrade and that thing would easily chirp second gear even before the big mods....plus I always loved the feel of a torquey engine and an auto kicking down into passing gear.....
Oh and excuse my ignorance (don't know much about 3rd gens) but would you elaborate some more about the var intake setup?? I love hearing about other folks tinkering....
Jeremy
Oh and excuse my ignorance (don't know much about 3rd gens) but would you elaborate some more about the var intake setup?? I love hearing about other folks tinkering....
Jeremy
Well, the 92-94 Maxima SE 5 speeds came with a variable intake setup stock from the factory. The 92-94 SE Automatics, did NOT for some reason. I was able to get that system working in my car with an rpm switch.
As for the 4th gen Maximas, I think they can get a variable intake system from the Maximas overseas. The US 4th gen Maximas didnt' have the VI setup. Also, I think some 4th genners are able to get the 5th gen Maxima VI setup working.
As for 3rd gens, our options are very limited.
Also, I already have a TC and the same VB mod as your Altima. It makes the car fun to drive. But with my built tranny, I will get a MUCH shorter gearing along with much higher stall, lockup TC capabilities at WOT, and a much quicker 3-4 shift into OD. And it has a lifetime warranty up to 480fwhp. I don't think I will see 480hp for quite a while.c
#49
Well from what I've gathered, the 240, Altima, Max and others seem to share many of the same internal parts....I'm also going to redo my tranny in the Altima in prep for boost and use the '00/'01 Altima's revised shorter 1-3 gears and shorter 4.08 final drive (used in the 240sx and who knows what else)...that shorter final gear should really help us out and I'm excited to see just how much...!
Jeremy
Jeremy
#50
Originally Posted by niceguy
Well from what I've gathered, the 240, Altima, Max and others seem to share many of the same internal parts....I'm also going to redo my tranny in the Altima in prep for boost and use the '00/'01 Altima's revised shorter 1-3 gears and shorter 4.08 final drive (used in the 240sx and who knows what else)...that shorter final gear should really help us out and I'm excited to see just how much...!
Jeremy
Jeremy
Jeff, the VI system didn't make a noticable difference at first. It's wierd. After a while, I am starting to notice a nice difference. I have my switch over point set at 4600rpm. I am still not sure if my VTCs are puking or my VI has something to do with it. I have this wierd problem. If I am cruising at 50mph and if I drop it into 2nd gear. The revs drop to about 4000 rpm, then it doesn't pull all that hard b/c it's so low in the powerband. When I get to 4600, I notice a VERY nice gain in HP. But, if I go WOT in 1st gear, then shift to 2nd gear, the revs drop to 4K again, but I don't notice the gain in power at 4600. Maybe I have more momentum built up. Or maybe, my VTCs are puking on me. One way to find out is change the release point on my VI to 5500 and see if the problem occurs at 4600 or 5500rpm.
But when I first installed the VI system, I could not notice ANYTHING. I couldn't even notice a change in engine tone in 3rd gear on the highway. All I know, is that it works and I know it doesn't hurt performance according to theory. But it doesn't seem worth all my trouble and money spent. The spacers that I made WERE worth the trouble and costs! Very nice gain in low end power and the upper IM stays so cool at all times!
#53
since you are allmotor right now, and being that you're not detonating on pump gas perse'
id try the hotter plugs to see what happens
that what i run in my z. one step hotter.
then again, i have a freak motor and the rest of the s30 z guys are baffled as to how i put down the numbers i do.
i just figured id throw some more idea's out there for ya to think about.
id try the hotter plugs to see what happens
that what i run in my z. one step hotter.
then again, i have a freak motor and the rest of the s30 z guys are baffled as to how i put down the numbers i do.
i just figured id throw some more idea's out there for ya to think about.
#54
Wow, just imagine if you put all of this thought, money, time, and work into an actual sports car I give you mad props for what you've done man, but I guess I gave up on putting money into the max because it will never be any more then a four door, front wheel drive family car....how about a late 80's 300zx?
#55
Originally Posted by Aaron92SE
Jeff, the VI system didn't make a noticable difference at first. It's wierd.
Originally Posted by MaDMaX024
not a shabby idea i had, ey?
#56
Originally Posted by Aaron92SE
MDS ignition, I have looked into. After doing some research on the VE coil packs, they produce a lot of spark. And I am able to strengthen my spark with the ZEMulator if I need to.
#57
Originally Posted by MrGone
no it isn't, you do not have it setup properly that is all.
Also, I don't know if it's capacitive or inductive. I just know that I can strengthen the spark if it starts to become a problem with turbo.
jwmaxse, if I would have put all this time and money into a 5.0, then I'd be in the low 12s, if not 11s all motor by now. But, I like the fact that nobody expects a Maxima to ever be this fast. Once I get my turbo setup right, all my work will start really paying off. Also, it's much better to start of with a low 14 second NA Maxima, rather than a low 16 second Maxima and then turbocharge it. There are several turbocharged Maximas and lots of TC'd Hondas that only do 14s.
#58
Originally Posted by Aaron92SE
jwmaxse, if I would have put all this time and money into a 5.0, then I'd be in the low 12s, if not 11s all motor by now. But, I like the fact that nobody expects a Maxima to ever be this fast. Once I get my turbo setup right, all my work will start really paying off. Also, it's much better to start of with a low 14 second NA Maxima, rather than a low 16 second Maxima and then turbocharge it. There are several turbocharged Maximas and lots of TC'd Hondas that only do 14s.
#60
Originally Posted by Aaron92SE
How do you know I don't have it set up properly? I know it works and it functions very well. There is not much that can go wrong, it either works or it doesn't. I just have to tune for the optimal release point now.
Regardless, the VI is load based within a specific engine speed window. It's function is not based on RPM.
#61
He probably has to up the rpm value. But what other choice does he have? Since he doesn't or can't run a 5-sp ecu, he doesn't have any other choice?? The 4-gens use the rpm based switch with decent success. Then again, they have no other choice either.
If he wants it load based, he would have to rig it up to open with certain vaccum signals.
If he wants it load based, he would have to rig it up to open with certain vaccum signals.
Originally Posted by MrGone
You said you have it activate at 4600rpm (iirc) regardless, activate means the plate goes flat and high rpm's is the wrong time for that.
Regardless, the VI is load based within a specific engine speed window. It's function is not based on RPM.
Regardless, the VI is load based within a specific engine speed window. It's function is not based on RPM.
#62
Originally Posted by MrGone
You said you have it activate at 4600rpm (iirc) regardless, activate means the plate goes flat and high rpm's is the wrong time for that.
Regardless, the VI is load based within a specific engine speed window. It's function is not based on RPM.
Regardless, the VI is load based within a specific engine speed window. It's function is not based on RPM.
Brad, I hope to actually start buying turbo component within the next 3 months. I hope to have it installed by the end of the year. But, I have to move to another house, maybe back to NC, where the air is full of nitrous! You want to help out? I might have a few questions on how to made some of your piping. But I won't bug you too much.
#63
Originally Posted by Aaron92SE
What do you want me to do? Wait.. did you say RPM's? Anyway, all I need to tune if for the release point. Why do you say I have mine set up improperly?
oh and no, I made sure not to say RPMs incase Randy or Michael are reading
#64
Originally Posted by Aaron92SE
Brad, I hope to actually start buying turbo component within the next 3 months. I hope to have it installed by the end of the year. But, I have to move to another house, maybe back to NC, where the air is full of nitrous! You want to help out? I might have a few questions on how to made some of your piping. But I won't bug you too much.
#65
Odd. When I'm in neutral (ie.. no load) I can rev the engine and then see the vi arm move. You know you still haven't answered his question.
Originally Posted by MrGone
All I am saying is if you have it set to activate (ie. give the solenoid power to supply the vacuum to the actuator) anywhere near or above 4000 rpm you will see absolutely no gain from the VI and might as well run a non VI manifold
oh and no, I made sure not to say RPMs incase Randy or Michael are reading
oh and no, I made sure not to say RPMs incase Randy or Michael are reading
#66
Originally Posted by Jeff92se
Odd. When I'm in neutral (ie.. no load) I can rev the engine and then see the vi arm move. You know you still haven't answered his question.
I've also already mentioned the whole VI thing a number of times.
I should just start modifying manifolds again but it's so much work, ugh.
#67
Originally Posted by MrGone
All I am saying is if you have it set to activate (ie. give the solenoid power to supply the vacuum to the actuator) anywhere near or above 4000 rpm you will see absolutely no gain from the VI and might as well run a non VI manifold
oh and no, I made sure not to say RPMs incase Randy or Michael are reading
oh and no, I made sure not to say RPMs incase Randy or Michael are reading
Anyway, I am going to ask one more time, then I will just dismiss your statement about me having my VI system setup wrong.
Why do you say I have mine set up improperly?
#68
Okay from what I understand:
Solenoid is 'on' to keep the manifold in the high rpm range mode. But for some odd reason, it's 'on' as default. Then when certain conditions arise, ie.. low-mid rpm / high load happens, ecu tells the solenoid to go 'off', engaging the low rpm/high torque mode. Then at when the ecu sees high rpm/high load, it turns 'on' again. Explains why Shawn sees the light flicker at 4,000 or so. There are more conditions but that's the simplied version.
So Aaron, you might want to check the fsm and rethink how you want to do it as you only get to use the rpm as an condition. I think you want it 'off' up to 4500ish rpm and then 'on' from there. But I think that's how you have it??
Solenoid is 'on' to keep the manifold in the high rpm range mode. But for some odd reason, it's 'on' as default. Then when certain conditions arise, ie.. low-mid rpm / high load happens, ecu tells the solenoid to go 'off', engaging the low rpm/high torque mode. Then at when the ecu sees high rpm/high load, it turns 'on' again. Explains why Shawn sees the light flicker at 4,000 or so. There are more conditions but that's the simplied version.
So Aaron, you might want to check the fsm and rethink how you want to do it as you only get to use the rpm as an condition. I think you want it 'off' up to 4500ish rpm and then 'on' from there. But I think that's how you have it??
#69
Originally Posted by Jeff92se
Okay from what I understand:
Solenoid is 'on' to keep the manifold in the high rpm range mode. But for some odd reason, it's 'on' as default. Then when certain conditions arise, ie.. low-mid rpm / high load happens, ecu tells the solenoid to go 'off', engaging the low rpm/high torque mode. Then at when the ecu sees high rpm/high load, it turns 'on' again. Explains why Shawn sees the light flicker at 4,000 or so. There are more conditions but that's the simplied version.
So Aaron, you might want to check the fsm and rethink how you want to do it as you only get to use the rpm as an condition. I think you want it 'off' up to 4500ish rpm and then 'on' from there. But I think that's how you have it??
Solenoid is 'on' to keep the manifold in the high rpm range mode. But for some odd reason, it's 'on' as default. Then when certain conditions arise, ie.. low-mid rpm / high load happens, ecu tells the solenoid to go 'off', engaging the low rpm/high torque mode. Then at when the ecu sees high rpm/high load, it turns 'on' again. Explains why Shawn sees the light flicker at 4,000 or so. There are more conditions but that's the simplied version.
So Aaron, you might want to check the fsm and rethink how you want to do it as you only get to use the rpm as an condition. I think you want it 'off' up to 4500ish rpm and then 'on' from there. But I think that's how you have it??
I know the FSM explains that the valve is open (top end gain) when the motor is off and there is no vacuum (no 12v exists to the solenoid). When I start the car, the power valve closes (vacuum exists) and I get better low end power (12v exist to solenoid). Once I reach 4600rpm, it opens and I get better top end power b/c the solenoid grounds power, releases, and shuts off the vacuum source, which opens the power valve back up (just like the car was off).
I see exactly what you are saying now and yes, that is the way I have it set up. I made sure the power valve is closed for low end and open for top end power. The rest is up to me tuning for the best release point at WOT.
Also, I thought Shawn told me that his VI system releases at 4600 rpm? That is why I set my system that way. Also, I know the VTC release point is 4600rpm stock. So, I am just guessing that is best for the VI system. But I could be way off. Only a dyno can truely tell what the torque crossover point is, showing what the optimal release point is.
#70
#71
Originally Posted by Jeff92se
Maybe it's open during idle for some reason. But I simply have my power valve closed at idle and low end and it opens at top end.
Also, I have been noticing a huge kick in the pant feel in power gain at exactly 4600rpm when ever I downshift into 2nd gear while I've been cruising in OD at 45mph. It won't does that sometimes. Well, I changed my VI release point to 5K and the gain in power changed to 5K. I then changed the release point to 4K and same thing, it changed to 4K when I feel the gain in power. I am guessing my release point needs to be around 4000, but I need a dyno to tell for sure. I will get it dyno tuned once I am ready to tune with my ZEMulator.
#73
#74
And??.............
Originally Posted by MrGone
#75
Originally Posted by MrGone
This is what I think happens on the VE 5spd:
The power valve is open at idle and all cruising speeds. I guess for ease of flow and gas mileage. When the engine load rises and the rpm are low, then the power valve closes for improved torque. Then it gets above a certain rpm, then it opens for improved top end.
Does anybody know when their power valve releases when they are WOT? It is probably between 3500-4500 rpm. Anybody have a definite number. If so, I will just tune for that for the time being until I finally get it dyno tuned.
#76
Aaron, look at my oooold dyno sheets. It was around 3800 rpm.. you could see where it opened on my old dyno charts..
http://mattblehm.com/pics/car/baseline_dyno.jpg
we played with it on the dyno to try to see if it would add power if I moved it up or down on the RPM range.. no dice... all I did was lose power if I moved it from the stock on/off point.
http://mattblehm.com/pics/car/baseline_dyno.jpg
we played with it on the dyno to try to see if it would add power if I moved it up or down on the RPM range.. no dice... all I did was lose power if I moved it from the stock on/off point.
#77
Originally Posted by Matt93SE
Aaron, look at my oooold dyno sheets. It was around 3800 rpm.. you could see where it opened on my old dyno charts..
http://mattblehm.com/pics/car/baseline_dyno.jpg
we played with it on the dyno to try to see if it would add power if I moved it up or down on the RPM range.. no dice... all I did was lose power if I moved it from the stock on/off point.
http://mattblehm.com/pics/car/baseline_dyno.jpg
we played with it on the dyno to try to see if it would add power if I moved it up or down on the RPM range.. no dice... all I did was lose power if I moved it from the stock on/off point.
But, the higher I set my variable, the harder the kick in the pants feeling feels when it releases. Which makes total sense. I wish I could figure out why I feel a very sweet gain in power when it releases and sometimes I don't. I always put my hand on my relay to feel it click, but I wonder if my power valve engages everytime. It makes me want to put a lever switch in the engine bay with an LED inside the car to see some solid results.
#78
Originally Posted by Aaron92SE
I think Shawn hooked up an LED to his. I don't think he has ever posted exactly when his releases.
wiring is still there, but the LED isn't :-/
#80
Originally Posted by MrGone
That was over a year ago, I dont even remember anymore
wiring is still there, but the LED isn't :-/
wiring is still there, but the LED isn't :-/
any body wanna rehost them i have both high vid and low vid quaility version