ok... i've tried bogus off the shelf spray and rinse wheel cleaners, brake cleaners, goof-off and simple green with only the most nominal of results (and i'm being generous here).

what's the secret?

 

sand and repaint

 

try a clay bar, it might take that caked on brake dust off, but if your clear coat is peeling it will be alot harder to get that stuff out, just sand down the clear coat id think.

 

these wheels have clear coat issues. I have had two cars and both had the clear coming off.

I usually have good luck cleaning the brake dust out of the cracks with simple green and I use a plastic brillo pad and/or a stiff toothbrush.

BTW, I still have my stock wheels and use them during the fall and spring when it's rainy.

 

I used some acid stuff that we got at my job with great results , cleaning some brake dust ( that was soldered into the metal , due to the fact that the car sitted for one year ) and all the dirt , after that , i used a metal polisher to come back to a nice finish , cause the acid will make the wheel come white . After that the wheel was the same color than the center hubcap . Sadly , the clear coat is gone , but i think that some spray can clear can to the job , i ll check this out .

The acid thing was fluorophosphoric acid , or something like that lol . Try one application , than wash , than a 2nd one , and brush the wheel with a plastic toothbrush , and then rince , a final acid application and wash with soap and water . After the metal polished when its dry .

 

oh yeah...the old fluorophosphoric acid trick...i think that's in aisle 5 of my local acme market...lol

think i'll try the plastic brillo first


thanks guys

 

Don't waste your $ at the partshouse on wheel cleaners, go straight to the source. Get some COIL CLEANER from your local Air Conditioning supplier, the place the A/C contractors buy their parts from. It's full strength Hydroflouric acid and works great on aluminum. Comes in a plastic one gallon bottle, be sure you get the PINK version, not the green! Ain't but $11-12 for a whole gallon(!) Due to its strength there's probably enuff there to equal 50-100 bottles of that wannabe cleaner you buy at the partshouse LOL!

Been usin' it for years on aluminum parts that I'm fabricating just prior to welding and also on wheels, depends on the quality of the aluminum in the wheel as to whether it'll leave that white haze or not. If it does, just use some wax and you'll love the results.
Spritz it on and let it sit for about 5-10 minutes, then just wash it off. When it comes to textured surfaces though, you'll be better off using a brush and soap to get rid of the haze.

hope this helps,

'bird

 

Could you get away with using muriatic acid (strong HCL solution)? Or would that turn my wheels into aluminum foil?

 

I've had pretty dang good results just useing the pressure washer and the "tire cleaner foam" at the local 25. cent a minute car wash. Also consider better brake pads, no dust.

 

Not an expert by any means but two things on Muriatic acid...

It's a whole lot meaner to work with compared to other acids. A drop of Muriatic on your skin will leave a nasty lil burn mark if you don't wash it off quick enuff. Leave it there long enuff and you'll have a permanent scar. Keep a BIG box of BAKING SODA handy to neutralize the action.
Be aware that it gives off extremely harmful vapors similar to Sulfuric acid and can burn your eyes before you realize it's happening.

If you insist on tryin' Muriatic, it might not have as much effect on anodized or forged aluminum as it will on cast aluminum. If the surface isn't in very good shape it can etch the heck out've it, a reaction/condition that will ruin the surface.

I'd stick with the Coil Cleaner, lots easier/safer to handle with better results.

good luck,

'bird

 

cheap ole turtlewax brand wheel cleaner and a tire/wheel brush takes it off easily