Geerhed

iTrader: (1)

The write-up on 4dsc.com was a big help.
The rears weren't too bad to do -- once I did one side the other side took about half the time since I knew what I was doing.
I had the use of an impact wrench and compressor so that made the job ever so much easier. The only time I needed a 2nd set of hands was when I put the strut assemblies back into the car -- my lovely partner in crime was able to put the nuts back on the top of the strut mount while not spilling a drop of her marguerita.

A word on the stock struts: they're absolute junk. Mine were completely dead -- with the assembly on held on a bench vise I could depress the strut with one finger.

So: if you're debating whether or not to do this job yourself, I say go ahead. It's a learning process, and not too hard if you can follow directions well. Oh, and get an impact wrench.

wolfpack_5150

iTrader: (3)

nice, what struts did u go with? I had the money so I did the koni/eibach and have been very happy.

Geerhed

iTrader: (1)

My maxi has about 176K on it, and I expect to drive it one more year, two at the most, so I didn't spend lavish amounts on the struts. There are some great deals on eBay for KYB's and Tokicos.
However, I kept my cash in my pocket and bought Gabriels ($29.95) on eBay. Still looking for front struts but I'm sure some will come along. If nothing else I know where the front Gabriels are to match the back.

Tarzan

Once you are done with all struts go for a 4 wheel alignment.

Slamnasty

What was your total parts cost for the rears? I don't have the expertise or the tools to do my own car, but when I do this I'm going to buy the parts for someone else to put on.

ArcticDC5

nice, I got 2 rear KYBs for $75 shipped and plan to install them at the suspension work meet come May. Removing them doesn't seem too hard, but how did you take them apart? Did you need a vise?

Geerhed

iTrader: (1)

As I said, the write-up on 4dsc.com was very helpful. And, I do intend to go for a 4 wheel alignment. I'm holding off installing the 4 new tires I purchased as well until I'm ready for the alignment.
Total cost was $29.00 plus shipping ($11.00) for the pair of struts on eBay. I re-used the strut mounts, and everything else was fine to reuse as well. Edit: except for the stock boots (the rubber dust covers). You'll need to go to your local Autozone, Pep Boys, VIP, or the like and hit the truck suspension section to find some universal boots. They come in different colors. Since I'm a boring 40-something, I went with basic black. $2.98 each.
Tools: Again, refer to 4dsc.com, but in general you'll need a decent breaker bar (which is basically a very long socket wrench) OR access to an impact wrench (like the Nascar guys use on the tires). Having both is better. Sockets range from 10 - 24mm. For the larger bolts (the three on the lower suspension) you can sub 7/8", 9/16", and 3/4" sockets and not do a lot of damage, but the responsibility is yours. I used the English sizes and got away with it (didn't have the proper sizes for the impact wrench in Metric). If you can rent an impact wrench (air gun) and compressor it will be a HUGE time- and effort-saver.
As I said before, once I had done the driver's side, the passenger side was very easy -- had the strut out in less than 15 minutes. Of course, I already had the rear seat out, and the necessary tools laid out ready to go. I started the job about 10 AM, finished the driver's side by 12:30, had lunch, went for a quick motorcycle ride with the wife, and got back to the other side at 3 and was done by 4:30.
Having a bench vise is very helpful because there is a collar that is screwed onto the strut. Taking this off requires a large monkey wrench, a vise to hold the base of the strut, a rubber mallet (to help the wrench along) and a bit of patience. The new struts should come with a new collar so you needn't worry about marking up the old one.
You'll need a decent set of spring compressors as well (Autozone lends them for free with a deposit). This is VERY IMPORTANT. You do NOT want to catch one of those springs in the chin when a cheap compressor breaks or slips off!
You can read the whole write-up here: http://www.4dsc.com/articles/suspens...h_tokico.shtml
However, if you have the stock struts in the rear, when you take off the collar mentioned above a very foul-smelling oily substance is going to pour out so be prepared with an empty coffee can or gallon milk jug with a large hole cut in top.
The stock struts are just a piston in an oil bath, so they're not sealed. The replacements (even the inexpensive Gabriels I used) are FAR better. When you install the new struts, you will need to pour 1/2 cup or so of motor oil into the strut resevoir which will help keep the new strut cool.
As far as expertise: only one way to find out how to do it! And they're hard to screw up if you follow directions. I think that if you're comfortable changing brake pads and rotors, you can do this job.

Happy to answer any other questions. Sorry about the length!