Golden Ice

I've decided I'm going to run a new stock or remanufactured alt instead of getting an HO, atleast for the time being. splmax.com gave me a quote of $550+ $20 shipping for a 160 hot/190 peak ohio generator that supposedly bolts right on, but its still not as big as I want. So I decided I'll build a bigger battery box and get a second rear battery, and just keep them both isolated from the front at all times, just charging it whenever I get home. I'm probably going to get a cheap JC Whitney single guage A pillar pod and stick a voltmeter in there to monitor the rear batteries. I'm also considering rerouting the 4 guage wire running to the trunk through the inside this time, making a stop in the console where I can install one of these switches, allowing me to start the car off of the rear batteries incase I happen to do somthing stupid like leave my fog lights on ..after calculating all the costs, this will save me about $270. Unless anyone knows of a QUALITY HO alt of at LEAST 160 amps hot/190 peak for $300 or less..

Scope

iTrader: (5)

What type of system are you running RMS not Peak Wattage?

Golden Ice

current system runs about 1000w rms NOW, but I'll be running no less than 2 total batteries, AND class A amplified ham gear, AND I want to be capable of dropping a 5000w rms system in the trunk without even thinking about the alt..which can be done 2 ways..big battery bank isolated from the alt, or a big alt..

eric93SE

iTrader: (1)

Honestly the HO alt is a must for anyone looking to do a high spl system. Extra batts won't do it. If you were to do a stock alt with an isolator to charge the cars batt and ONE rear batt simultaneously, then use a high capacity capacitor (at least the 15 farad, look on ebay they are now as high as 100+ farad), then you could at least have something that can handle competitions (for burping), but might work okay for continuous playing at moderate levels (since you would go def otherwise).

Extra batteries on a stock alt will have a severe voltage drop since the stock alt cannot keep up charging, and there is a good chance for the belt slipping during idle or when in drive and at a stop. That voltage drop is something like a 30% power drop (amp wattage), so that means your 5000W amp is putting out much less (unless it has a FULLY regulated power supply, which most do not).

My friend has a Lincoln Nav with 4 18"s subs, and an aftermarket 160A alt, the amp is a hifonics which is rated at 3200W rms (4 feet long), The alt has no where near the output needed to handle his system.

Scope

iTrader: (5)

A cap will put extra stress on the alt. too as it tries to recharge after being discharged. That goes along with the amp pulling power also. I highly doubt your current system is running that much power from what's given on your cardomain. please post pics of your system.

bvtran

iTrader: (3)

you could get a bosch reman online for around $115 after shipped in your old one. lots of places sold it. I've used it and they're pretty good and reliable.

eric93SE

iTrader: (1)

the current draw from the cap is the least of his worries (and its no reason to worry about alternator stress).

Scope

iTrader: (5)

Why is it no reason to worry about your alternators stress? Too much stress = stuck on side of the street. You never had an alternator die huh?

eric93SE

iTrader: (1)

I said its no reason to worry about the amount of current that the cap draws because its insignificant compared to the stereo and everything else drawing power.

Scope

iTrader: (5)

I said the current the cap draws after being fully discharged will cause extra stress due to the amp trying to pull power and the cap trying to recharge at the same time.