Ok a week or so I posted about my abs going off at very low speeds while cornering. Well yesterday I was trying to merge onto hwy 64 and some turd wouldn't let me in. So I gassed it got around him and had to slow down to make the left turn, to make a long story short, I hit the brakes and all 4 wheels locked up, the brake pedel dropped to the floor and wouldnt even come up when I tried to lift it with my foot. As soon as it came to a complete stop ( smoke rolling everywhere ) the brake pedel came off the floor and a very embarrassed driver ( me ) rolled off on the ramp and off into the distance. So gentlemen, ?????? HELP !!!!!!

 

Get if fixed asap. Consider pulling the fuse for a TEMP fix. Because driving it that way is 10x more dangerous than having a faulty abs system kick in. Or better yet, drive it to the nearest mechanic and get it fixed asap

 

Any idea where to start?? I get no ABS warning light , just lock up. It's only happened once, but that is enough for me.

 

Scary Story!

Guesswork puzzle:

1.a. Your all wheel were locked ? 1.b.until the very end =standstill.

2. The ABS actuator works with two separate entities; its quite unlikely that both circuits valves jam simultaneously (still possible). If reason was ABS, then taking fuse will possibly leave safe brakes as Jeff says. But then all 4 wheel DID NOT brake fully.

3. The only point ? were both circuits could be affected is master cylinder, and or attached mech. Also the only point that could let pedal down...

4. Why until the end (1b)? ...what did affect the system to release? How did release come through?
- If engine rpm, then vacuum is in the play.
- If wheel rotation, then brake pads jam(quite impossible?)
- Time: vacuum or other liquid leak release take time to return


Q.: What is your vehicle brake repair history? Mileage?

 

Pull fuse, and connectors until you have it diagnosed and repaired by a qualified person, IF you can even find one.

 

1a Not sure if all 4 wheelsd locked I just hung on for dear life. 1b. The car didn't pull to any direction, making me think that at least wheels on both sides locked.

4.The only brake repairs I have done to the car (only had it for about 6k) was to replace the rear caliper on the driver side ( frozen ) and replace the rear pads. Mileiage is 170k ( I think, just had surgery yesterday so I cen't get down the stairs to check )

 

All these fit under worn/broken master cyl assy:
- did not pull
- no abs light (abs self test still ok?)
- mileage

What points to ABS:
- ? ...nothin?

Other possibilities:
- rear pads material sucks --->causes jam on both sides (that does not PULL the pedal...)


I would replace the whole master cyl assy with all widgets before driving. Maybe this was the reason for selling the car? I suppose most people would do that...

 

what did you do first to get this problem?? change your axles? pull wheels off and check to see the thing is hooked up right then take it to a mechanic to get it looked at.

 

I have been looking at reman master cylinders online and the pricing is confusing the heck out of me check out the crazy differences bewteen these 2 on this page http://webepc.com/cgi-bin/sewse?/u/w...12.cmm+discap2

That is my first attempt to post a link so if it dosent work please someone help.

Sorry looks like the post dosen't work soo good.... damn computer thingie.

 

ummm you got ABS?

 

man, that's crazy, dangerously crazy. you're lucky, it could of been worse. that reminds me of the time when i drove with the hand brake on in my celica on the freeway. the brakes was cooking afterward. better get that ABS fix.

 

Ya I've got abs, that isn't the question, sorry I should have been more specific. My question was more on weather I should get the master cylinder with the vaccume assist or if I could remove the vaccume assist from mine and reuseing it??

 

without is fine, you can reuse the Vaccum booster

 

but what if it is the booster suddenly pulling the petal to the floor.

 

All parts have to be checked and like new. I would not use that...

 

booster would cause a hard pedal when it fails.

 

Thats the std, 'designed failsafe' failure -type.

But the depicted failure is smtg very strange... If vacuum diaphgram is ok, but vacuum without restrictions can still pull freely, this is what happens? Dunno how this happens, but that vacuum ctrl valve system must have 'squirrels' in it...

Or maybe vacuum does not play any part in here: the main cylinder seals may be broken and rubberparts jam the pedal; pull is just a feelin?