Hi guys.. my AC stopped working last year out of nowhere, my car is 92 VE and i believe my compressor takes R12. All the fuses look fine and i looked at the AC help at Wiking's Website. The shop told me that the A/C Switch is bad, but i resoldered everything on the MCC and the Wire Harnesses look good to me, NO loose connection. The shop recently filled up R134a after getting the fitting for my compressor. Am i supposed to fill R134a? or R12? The compressor does not turn on when i push in the AC switch. So i made a manual switch to turn on compressor (Battery to the Compressor) Can anyone help me out on this? i already checked the relays and fuses, and what possibly can be wrong here? the R134a? or some relay problems? Thanks guys.

 

One more thing, right now, the compressor only runs. No fans turn on or anything, but cold air blows so help me out how to fix everything here.. like (getting new Manual Climate Control or etc because i don't want any trouble on my AC and i believe the AC turns on and off by itself on the compressor. I left the compressor on for a while and it bursted out of my hood.. . Thanks

 

the switch the shop was most likely referinf to is a PRESSURE switch, not the one on the dash. there is a switch (or 2?) that tells the compressor when to cycle on and off based on the pressure of the refrigerant in the line. since you have now gone around said switch(s) you run the very real risk of blowing seals if the pressure gets to high or locking up the compressor if the pressure gets too low (lack of lubrication)

 

As said, dont run A/C compressor with bypass beyond test.

The manual A/C has four relays: three for fans, one for AC that may be stuck. Replace if suspect. Then there is the pressure sw at the tank (also a suspicious note in the schema: FUSIBLE CONNECTOR ...check out!). Also thermo control amp with a sensor after cabine cooling unit (evap) which may not make connection to relay. The autoclimate must have at least one sensor more for temp input. Also there is a ? flapmotor which may have a position sw giving enable to the ctrl pcb...

Last word in enabling A/C is given by ECU. Check that pin ECU46 goes low.

PM for help kcidmil.

General A/C info: http://www.id-usa.com/how_to_ac.asp
http://www.id-usa.com/how_to_videos.asp

 

I have a 1993 Maxima with over 280K miles. It runs like a champion except the A/C went out late last year. The fan blows great but the compressor won't come on. When I press the A/C button, the green light on the button lights up but the compressor won't come on (and bog the engine down). I've tried to fill it with R134a but the compressor won't come on to pull the freon into the system. I guess I've got a bad compressor??? Could it just be an electrical (switching) problem??

(Pepboys charges $229 for a new compressor. Valvoline charges $19.95 to check out the A/C and $129.95 to "fix" the A/C.)

 

for the AC to actually pull in the freon when it's low it needed a vacume to be pulled.

the compressor knows that if the freon is low it won't kick on because it'll blow itself up.

have the quick lube place determine if there's a leak. (20 bucks). then if they say it's good then go the full recharge and pony up $130.

 

so the question is.... only R12 refrigerant can be put into my car??

 

if it take R12 then why did the shop put in R134a? did they convert to R134a? they "normally" put labels all over the place noting the change/conversion.

at this point...go to a RELIABLE shop and have them fix the rigged set up correctly. working on the AC is not like changing the oil....you actually need to know wtf is going on and not rig anything.