slight hesitation at first then normal. what to look for?

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Jun 27, 2005 | 12:14 PM
  #1  
So if i start the car, then put it in drive and go, i get a slight hesitation and then it goes. it wont do it again til i have turned the car off for awhile and then try again.

should i clean maf? or just throw in some fuel injector cleaner once? maybe iacv?? where should i stizzart?
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Jun 27, 2005 | 12:41 PM
  #2  
Quote: So if i start the car, then put it in drive and go, i get a slight hesitation and then it goes. it wont do it again til i have turned the car off for awhile and then try again.

should i clean maf? or just throw in some fuel injector cleaner once? maybe iacv?? where should i stizzart?
I would change the fuel filter. Supposedly the MAF doesn't kick in until it is warmed up anyway so I wouldn't think MAF. Also I have heard fuel injector is a no-no but I know people use it.
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Jun 27, 2005 | 12:53 PM
  #3  
ok, ill change that this weekend see if i see an improvement. i know that the pump will whine when its really cold out...so its something that should be done.

thanks b

Gregg
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Jun 27, 2005 | 02:20 PM
  #4  
youre sure its not something really simple like the shift linkage bushing? that causes a hesitation because its not quite in drive....
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Jun 27, 2005 | 02:26 PM
  #5  
Quote: I put it in drive and go, i get a slight hesitation and then it goes.
I have the same hesitation, which only occurs when engaging into first gear. I had the impression that it might be loose engine mounts, and plan to replace mine soon.
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Jun 27, 2005 | 04:33 PM
  #6  
Quote: youre sure its not something really simple like the shift linkage bushing? that causes a hesitation because its not quite in drive....
One of my cars (the bastard one) has that problem. Where exactly is that bushing at? Is it at the tranny or at the shifter?
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Jun 27, 2005 | 05:19 PM
  #7  
it only does it at the first go at driving. after that its fine. so im ruling out the shift linkage bushing. but yes where is that thing? just take out the shifter and thats where it would be?
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Jun 27, 2005 | 08:54 PM
  #8  
with the shift linkage bushing gone, it only hesitates once as you said. but its easy to determine if it is it indeed or not. if pulling back on the shift **** helps it engage into gear - shift linkage bushing.
it can be replaced in about 20 minutes: work is all done under the car. unbolt driver's side screws on the heat shield above the catalytic converter, pull or move it out of the way - you will see the link between the shifter and the shift cable, there are 2 washers i believe, a cotter pin and (should be) a white/clearish bushing made of rubbery material. if there is no bushing, it is likely your problem.
tom
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Jun 28, 2005 | 04:46 AM
  #9  
ok, well i guess il get under there and investigate. thanks!

Gregg
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Jun 28, 2005 | 09:38 AM
  #10  
its such a cheap and quick fix that it is always worth your time to try it. part # for the bushing at your dealer is: 34552-D4000 - i have bought it twice, once for each of my maxima's. in atlanta it was 1.50 and in nyc they charged 4$, couldnt be any more than that.
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Jun 29, 2005 | 10:43 AM
  #11  
$1.75 from dealer. ill be doing it this sat....thanks again mintyman
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Jun 29, 2005 | 12:00 PM
  #12  
First thing comes to my mind is the coolant temp sensor and engine temp sensor. Read the codes, dude! Get a hold of the FSM first.
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Jun 29, 2005 | 12:06 PM
  #13  
ive got the FSM. why do you say those....
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Jun 30, 2005 | 10:45 AM
  #14  
I had the same problem and it was the nylon bushings on the shift cable. They are cheap. But as soon as I put them on problem went away
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Jul 2, 2005 | 08:11 AM
  #15  
ok so im under the car, where does this bushing go? i def. dont have one under there that i could replace, so i need to knwo where it goes.
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Jul 2, 2005 | 08:27 AM
  #16  
the bushing has a little 'nipple' on one side

take out the cotter pin on the shifter

remove the shift linkage and two washers, one rippled, one flat

insert the nipple of the bushing into the hole, the flat side will face out

replace washers, stick linkage back through to make a tight fit,

replace cotter pin.

when u get it in u can see that u did it right.
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Jul 2, 2005 | 09:14 AM
  #17  
thats a great description, i finally found the diagram in my fsm. ill post a pic, because this is one simple fix to peoples hesitation problem like mine.

Green=where the part will go on. The red is the part circled. blue is what you will see once you have taken off the heatshield that is above the cat.


this might be a good thread to add to stickies....
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Jul 11, 2005 | 11:22 AM
  #18  
I know I'm a newbie, but i am on my second Maxima(1-89se,2-92gxe). Pull up the engine codes if the bushing is not the problem. (do this by accessing the unit behind the center console and radio assembly, by your right foot or the passenger's left foot. there is a black long panel on each side concealing it. just pull off the right side. After that you will see a screw similar to am amplifier gain **** on the passenger side of the comp. Turn all the way to the left, then right and it will begin to flash, count the flashes, long flash is the first #, short flashes are the second#. i do not have a code list being that the only online access i have is through the college's PC--i am a student, this is why i do not chime in often-- but i KNOW someone here does have a code list.) the knock sensor could be a problem as well, it is with my car. i just do not have 100 dollars to buy a new one yet.--Sean
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Jul 16, 2005 | 07:22 PM
  #19  
i have a bad idle and can't get rid of it. does it in park and drive when you put it up in nuetral seems to get better but still there about the same as park. have'nt changed the linkage bushing yet but will do. just dont seem like thats it. fuel fiter is new and i cleaned the T.B and the IACV no change pvc filter is new and checked the dristro, coil seems fine fuel injectors sound the same but havent checked the ohns yet. do you have to perice the wire to do that? car runs good after you give it some gas about 2 1/2 to 3 rpms does great on the highway. I just can't figure it out. .............Anyone have or had this I want to check out the heads if a valve is stuck or a lifter maybe but have'nt wanted to go that deep yet.
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Jul 16, 2005 | 08:47 PM
  #20  
that bad idle, mf'er, sounds like a vacuum leak somewhere. check for brittle or old hoses.
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Jul 16, 2005 | 08:52 PM
  #21  
Automatics are too complicated.
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Jul 17, 2005 | 06:36 AM
  #22  
Has anyone here had the problem where the car won't start at all, even though you may have just been driving and parked say... 10 minutes ago? You get back in - turn it over -- and suddenly nothing?
A Nissan tech at a dealer once showed me how to "temporarily" correct this, by using the manual shift release button at the bottom of your shifter then moving the shifter through all the gears from P to 1 and then back to P. Turn the key and presto - you're back in business (most times anyway). He said it was a bad shifter bushing.
This fisrt happened to me back in 1999, and I still haven't replaced the bushing (same car), but every once in a while I need to resort to this trick. Maybe once a year if that. To be clear, I know I should fix this. Guilty as charged. But this solution has gotten me by all this time.
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Jul 17, 2005 | 08:35 AM
  #23  
I just push the shifter forward and try again. usually works
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Jul 17, 2005 | 09:05 AM
  #24  
yeah just push the shifter up a tad bit more. no need to throw it through all gears.
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Jul 18, 2005 | 04:58 AM
  #25  
Push up when you are already in park? So you're saying just 'lean' into the shifter a little? I'll try that next time it happens I guess, which isn't very often.
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Jul 18, 2005 | 08:02 AM
  #26  
yup, that's what works for me
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Jul 18, 2005 | 08:27 AM
  #27  
Yea Ive had to do that a few times too.

~Alex
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