Potential VE Purchase - Please Help
#1
Potential VE Purchase - Please Help
I just seen one of my dream cars for sale while driving around the neighborhood. In mint condition, proudly stands a 93' VE, black on black, leather, fully loaded(also CD player. don't think they came with it) Very good condition, with... Only 71,000 miles The car basically shines as if it just rolled out of the dealership. Get this.. 2000 bucks. Unfortunatly, no 5-spd But, I see so many people around here throwin on sticks left and right, it's not such a big concern for me right now with a deal this good. Especially in my area, you don't see these cars in normal looking condition everyday, thats also a big reason on why I don't wanna pass this up.
1)Im new to this whole buying a car thing(only bought one car in my life so far)Now, my question is to you VE guys... Is there anyway I can possibly drop the price? Im not in the best financial situation right now to be buying a new car but, come on.. It's a cheap low mileage VE(fully loaded). Definatly a must have for a 3rd gen enthusiast, you know what Im talkin about Also my poor GXE(119K) is basically falling apart. So what could I possibly use to lower the price other then your standard bargaining skills? Potential VTC failure maybe? I havn't actually heard it run, but would be sad if it caught the VTC bug already. Could be the reason why its priced that way. The guy did say over the phone it runs great, but he coulda grounded those suckers too thinking hes slick, yeah? What Im really tryin to do is, Im thinkin about putting together a nice little strat, using the knowledge I gain from here to get the guy at every turn on why the car should be priced cheaper, and get the possible best value I can, if this 2k isn't already low enough.
2)Also, Is there anything else to look out for when purchasing a VE? The first best thing to do would probably be running a Carfax, right? Im not gonna deny that the guy most likely rolled it back a few here and there, but is there a way to check if the engine is in good running condition right off the bat?
So anyway, I've been dreamin of owning this type of car for awhile now, and would be highly pleased to. I would really appreciate any seriose feedback. Thanks alot guys.
P.S. - Hopefully, I can snap some shots of it tommorrow.
1)Im new to this whole buying a car thing(only bought one car in my life so far)Now, my question is to you VE guys... Is there anyway I can possibly drop the price? Im not in the best financial situation right now to be buying a new car but, come on.. It's a cheap low mileage VE(fully loaded). Definatly a must have for a 3rd gen enthusiast, you know what Im talkin about Also my poor GXE(119K) is basically falling apart. So what could I possibly use to lower the price other then your standard bargaining skills? Potential VTC failure maybe? I havn't actually heard it run, but would be sad if it caught the VTC bug already. Could be the reason why its priced that way. The guy did say over the phone it runs great, but he coulda grounded those suckers too thinking hes slick, yeah? What Im really tryin to do is, Im thinkin about putting together a nice little strat, using the knowledge I gain from here to get the guy at every turn on why the car should be priced cheaper, and get the possible best value I can, if this 2k isn't already low enough.
2)Also, Is there anything else to look out for when purchasing a VE? The first best thing to do would probably be running a Carfax, right? Im not gonna deny that the guy most likely rolled it back a few here and there, but is there a way to check if the engine is in good running condition right off the bat?
So anyway, I've been dreamin of owning this type of car for awhile now, and would be highly pleased to. I would really appreciate any seriose feedback. Thanks alot guys.
P.S. - Hopefully, I can snap some shots of it tommorrow.
#3
Originally Posted by Jeff92se
I'd keep the car in you sig. But drive the car 1st. Report back.
#4
IMO, $2k for a VE w/ 71k miles is a very good deal, especially considering the shape you report the rest of the car to be in. If he messed with the odometer, you will be able to tell. The numbers will be crooked and won't perfectly line up with each other.
You should be able to tell if the VTCs have been grounded. Check Craig Brace's page for instructions and then just look at his to see.
5spds in great shape are HARD to find. This auto might the best you can do. You could always do a 5spd and VI swap later.
You should be able to tell if the VTCs have been grounded. Check Craig Brace's page for instructions and then just look at his to see.
5spds in great shape are HARD to find. This auto might the best you can do. You could always do a 5spd and VI swap later.
#6
Originally Posted by Pervis Anathema
5spds in great shape are HARD to find. This auto might the best you can do. You could always do a 5spd and VI swap later.
http://boston.craigslist.com/car/81556335.html
http://boston.craigslist.com/car/82629655.html
http://boston.craigslist.com/car/81453175.html (the ever elusive blue on black leather)
#7
$2k is a very good deal for a VE with under 100k miles, although the ones Mizeree pointed out are also quite nice.
I thought I got a pretty good deal for mine at $2500 when I bought it 2 years ago and it had 148k on it.
Probably the best thing for you is VEs and VGs are pretty similar in resale value at this point. Most potential buyers don't even know the difference.
If you clean up your car and sell it, you should be able to get more than $2k for it, especially since you have low miles (119k according to your post). I would think you can get closer to $3k.
If you want to upgrade to a VE 5-speed, buy one. Swapping in a tranny is going to cost you close to another thousand dollars in parts (unless you are really lucky and score a cheap tranny), not to mention the hours of labor.
I thought I got a pretty good deal for mine at $2500 when I bought it 2 years ago and it had 148k on it.
Probably the best thing for you is VEs and VGs are pretty similar in resale value at this point. Most potential buyers don't even know the difference.
If you clean up your car and sell it, you should be able to get more than $2k for it, especially since you have low miles (119k according to your post). I would think you can get closer to $3k.
If you want to upgrade to a VE 5-speed, buy one. Swapping in a tranny is going to cost you close to another thousand dollars in parts (unless you are really lucky and score a cheap tranny), not to mention the hours of labor.
#8
I didn't feel like typing all this out.
Originally Posted by Red92MaxSE
$2k is a very good deal for a VE with under 100k miles, although the ones Mizeree pointed out are also quite nice.
I thought I got a pretty good deal for mine at $2500 when I bought it 2 years ago and it had 148k on it.
Probably the best thing for you is VEs and VGs are pretty similar in resale value at this point. Most potential buyers don't even know the difference.
If you clean up your car and sell it, you should be able to get more than $2k for it, especially since you have low miles (119k according to your post). I would think you can get closer to $3k.
If you want to upgrade to a VE 5-speed, buy one. Swapping in a tranny is going to cost you close to another thousand dollars in parts (unless you are really lucky and score a cheap tranny), not to mention the hours of labor.
I thought I got a pretty good deal for mine at $2500 when I bought it 2 years ago and it had 148k on it.
Probably the best thing for you is VEs and VGs are pretty similar in resale value at this point. Most potential buyers don't even know the difference.
If you clean up your car and sell it, you should be able to get more than $2k for it, especially since you have low miles (119k according to your post). I would think you can get closer to $3k.
If you want to upgrade to a VE 5-speed, buy one. Swapping in a tranny is going to cost you close to another thousand dollars in parts (unless you are really lucky and score a cheap tranny), not to mention the hours of labor.
#10
Well, this is pretty nice. While I was doing all this research on getting the best value for this damn car, I discovered that it was sold.
Thats f****en great. The guy even tried to offer me a GXE after. Man, Im pissed. I had no clue somebody can sell a car that fast. With a deal like that, Im not surprised.
Anyway, gotta keep a positive attitude about this and hope to find such a great deal again, cause those links Mizeree posted(even tho cars are beautiful) that 140K+ deal ain't really doin it for me. And they were not in my area, unlike this low mileage clean one.
Thanks alot guys. Really appreciate it. If anything else comes up, I'll bring this thread back.
Thats f****en great. The guy even tried to offer me a GXE after. Man, Im pissed. I had no clue somebody can sell a car that fast. With a deal like that, Im not surprised.
Anyway, gotta keep a positive attitude about this and hope to find such a great deal again, cause those links Mizeree posted(even tho cars are beautiful) that 140K+ deal ain't really doin it for me. And they were not in my area, unlike this low mileage clean one.
Thanks alot guys. Really appreciate it. If anything else comes up, I'll bring this thread back.
#12
Originally Posted by Mizeree_X
http://boston.craigslist.com/car/81453175.html (the ever elusive blue on black leather)
#13
Originally Posted by bmw88rider
Got to move quick on the good deals. They move fast. I almost sold my 94 SE 5 speed for $1800 with only 95K miles but I decided to fix the problems and kept it instead.
Originally Posted by MrGone
m-fin dibs!!!!!1111oneoenone!1
#15
Found Another "Potential VE Purchase"
1992 Nissan Maxima SE
$2,995
5 Speed Manual
136,267 Miles
It also has a CD player with a Sunroof
What do you guys think? The car is being sold by a private dealer and the guy says the car looks great and runs great. I think for 136k the price is a bit steep, since there was another dealer around here selling a better looking VE with 71k for only 2k. What can I use to lower the price? Where can I get official proof of the VTC issue/rust issue to pop out with while Im there? The location of the car is very far from me and it's not easy for me to get there, so Im trying to keep trips to a minimum. I don't have too much time to think about this since it probably won't be there for long, and I don't wanna lose this like last time. The timing belt recently snapped on my VG, so time is of the essence. I'll appreciate any advice.
$2,995
5 Speed Manual
136,267 Miles
It also has a CD player with a Sunroof
What do you guys think? The car is being sold by a private dealer and the guy says the car looks great and runs great. I think for 136k the price is a bit steep, since there was another dealer around here selling a better looking VE with 71k for only 2k. What can I use to lower the price? Where can I get official proof of the VTC issue/rust issue to pop out with while Im there? The location of the car is very far from me and it's not easy for me to get there, so Im trying to keep trips to a minimum. I don't have too much time to think about this since it probably won't be there for long, and I don't wanna lose this like last time. The timing belt recently snapped on my VG, so time is of the essence. I'll appreciate any advice.
#16
well u could use vtc issue to lower price. pull the backseat and check for rust....tell him you did research on the car and that you know of its only recall. dont be like "omg i want this car bad!!!" to the guy, hell only think he doesnt have to go down on the price.
as far as getting there and all that, youll have to figure that into your final cost some how.....why not just swap in a new motor in the VG?
as far as getting there and all that, youll have to figure that into your final cost some how.....why not just swap in a new motor in the VG?
#17
Originally Posted by tripleGmax
well u could use vtc issue to lower price. pull the backseat and check for rust....tell him you did research on the car and that you know of its only recall. dont be like "omg i want this car bad!!!" to the guy, hell only think he doesnt have to go down on the price.
as far as getting there and all that, youll have to figure that into your final cost some how.....why not just swap in a new motor in the VG?
as far as getting there and all that, youll have to figure that into your final cost some how.....why not just swap in a new motor in the VG?
As for the swap, did you mean swapping in another VG? I really can't stand that engine. It's just too slow for me. Reliable but slow. And to get a VE in my current car would be way too much headache. Plus I want a 5spd which I would need to swap in as well. After all that work, the body still looks like crap from all those accidents while I was learning how to drive.
#18
yeah i meant another VG.
as far as price, hell start at 2k tell him you saw a max same pretty much but lower miles and it was 2k then if/when he says too low ask to work something out between 2-3k. just do what you gotta do, but drive the darn thing first and make sure it checks out ok.
good luck.
as far as price, hell start at 2k tell him you saw a max same pretty much but lower miles and it was 2k then if/when he says too low ask to work something out between 2-3k. just do what you gotta do, but drive the darn thing first and make sure it checks out ok.
good luck.
#19
Originally Posted by tripleGmax
yeah i meant another VG.
as far as price, hell start at 2k tell him you saw a max same pretty much but lower miles and it was 2k then if/when he says too low ask to work something out between 2-3k. just do what you gotta do, but drive the darn thing first and make sure it checks out ok.
good luck.
as far as price, hell start at 2k tell him you saw a max same pretty much but lower miles and it was 2k then if/when he says too low ask to work something out between 2-3k. just do what you gotta do, but drive the darn thing first and make sure it checks out ok.
good luck.
Now... Time to go learn how to drive stick
#20
Originally Posted by bmw88rider
Got to move quick on the good deals. They move fast. I almost sold my 94 SE 5 speed for $1800 with only 95K miles but I decided to fix the problems and kept it instead.
#21
Originally Posted by Joe Fontinyatz
Thanks man, I'll need it. I should be able to go check it out this week. Hopefully it will still be there. Im just gonna tell him 2k and work my way up from there if I have to.
Now... Time to go learn how to drive stick
Now... Time to go learn how to drive stick
lol... Shoot, start at $1900
#24
or just **** him off.
whenever someone trys that crap with me, I normally say that it's an unfair comparison.
you can't compare 2 used cars fairly because the maintenance is different and who knows what needed to be replaced on the 71k one (maybe all the suspension dry rotted)
just my .02
whenever someone trys that crap with me, I normally say that it's an unfair comparison.
you can't compare 2 used cars fairly because the maintenance is different and who knows what needed to be replaced on the 71k one (maybe all the suspension dry rotted)
just my .02
#25
Originally Posted by internetautomar
or just **** him off.
whenever someone trys that crap with me, I normally say that it's an unfair comparison.
you can't compare 2 used cars fairly because the maintenance is different and who knows what needed to be replaced on the 71k one (maybe all the suspension dry rotted)
just my .02
whenever someone trys that crap with me, I normally say that it's an unfair comparison.
you can't compare 2 used cars fairly because the maintenance is different and who knows what needed to be replaced on the 71k one (maybe all the suspension dry rotted)
just my .02
#26
You don't have much of a choice when buying something you want.
After you look over the car, find some things that might need to be fixed. Act kind of picky. When you get done, ask him how negotiable he is on the price. If he says he might go down some, point out the things you think might need to be done.
Some people won't negotiate or will only go down a little bit, especially when they first put something up for sale. When that is the case, make your best offer and tell the guy you are willing to pay that amount IN CASH. If he doesn't sell it, your offer stands and you might be willing to negotiate that price later. Give him your phone number and hope that no one pays full price. Then, he might call you and start the bidding process a little lower.
Lowballing people is usually a mistake unless 1) you know the seller 2) you know the seller is desperate or 3) the start price is obviously way too high. If the price is in the "reasonable" range, most sellers know that someone will come along that wants it bad enough to pay somewhere close to the asking price.
After you look over the car, find some things that might need to be fixed. Act kind of picky. When you get done, ask him how negotiable he is on the price. If he says he might go down some, point out the things you think might need to be done.
Some people won't negotiate or will only go down a little bit, especially when they first put something up for sale. When that is the case, make your best offer and tell the guy you are willing to pay that amount IN CASH. If he doesn't sell it, your offer stands and you might be willing to negotiate that price later. Give him your phone number and hope that no one pays full price. Then, he might call you and start the bidding process a little lower.
Lowballing people is usually a mistake unless 1) you know the seller 2) you know the seller is desperate or 3) the start price is obviously way too high. If the price is in the "reasonable" range, most sellers know that someone will come along that wants it bad enough to pay somewhere close to the asking price.
#27
Originally Posted by Cliff Clavin
You don't have much of a choice when buying something you want.
After you look over the car, find some things that might need to be fixed. Act kind of picky. When you get done, ask him how negotiable he is on the price. If he says he might go down some, point out the things you think might need to be done.
Some people won't negotiate or will only go down a little bit, especially when they first put something up for sale. When that is the case, make your best offer and tell the guy you are willing to pay that amount IN CASH. If he doesn't sell it, your offer stands and you might be willing to negotiate that price later. Give him your phone number and hope that no one pays full price. Then, he might call you and start the bidding process a little lower.
Lowballing people is usually a mistake unless 1) you know the seller 2) you know the seller is desperate or 3) the start price is obviously way too high. If the price is in the "reasonable" range, most sellers know that someone will come along that wants it bad enough to pay somewhere close to the asking price.
After you look over the car, find some things that might need to be fixed. Act kind of picky. When you get done, ask him how negotiable he is on the price. If he says he might go down some, point out the things you think might need to be done.
Some people won't negotiate or will only go down a little bit, especially when they first put something up for sale. When that is the case, make your best offer and tell the guy you are willing to pay that amount IN CASH. If he doesn't sell it, your offer stands and you might be willing to negotiate that price later. Give him your phone number and hope that no one pays full price. Then, he might call you and start the bidding process a little lower.
Lowballing people is usually a mistake unless 1) you know the seller 2) you know the seller is desperate or 3) the start price is obviously way too high. If the price is in the "reasonable" range, most sellers know that someone will come along that wants it bad enough to pay somewhere close to the asking price.
#28
I think the price is a bit steep.
You didn't specify all of the options on the car you were looking at -- KBB private party value for NYC is just under $2500 if the car is in excellent condition with leather and ABS. With no leather it is like $2400. Good condition is like $2000.
I don't think I would buy it for more than $2500 and your goal of $2000 seems reasonable to me. It would also have to be rust free and well maintained. It looks decent in the photo, but can't tell for sure. I would have to hear it run.
Your biggest problem is you need a car now and you don't really have a few months to wait around for another VE 5-speed, if that is really what you want to buy. They are out there, but nice ones don't pop up in a specific area that often. Sometimes you get lucky and cars just fall in your lap. Other times, you really have to search for them.
You didn't specify all of the options on the car you were looking at -- KBB private party value for NYC is just under $2500 if the car is in excellent condition with leather and ABS. With no leather it is like $2400. Good condition is like $2000.
I don't think I would buy it for more than $2500 and your goal of $2000 seems reasonable to me. It would also have to be rust free and well maintained. It looks decent in the photo, but can't tell for sure. I would have to hear it run.
Your biggest problem is you need a car now and you don't really have a few months to wait around for another VE 5-speed, if that is really what you want to buy. They are out there, but nice ones don't pop up in a specific area that often. Sometimes you get lucky and cars just fall in your lap. Other times, you really have to search for them.
#29
just as a point of reference.
when I bought my integra I went over it very carefully, just pointing out the good and the bad parts. not mentioning price at all (it was only a $500 car).
the seller ended up, without me negotiating at all, saying give me $250 for it.
of course I said sold .
sometimes silence is the best negotiating tool.
just let them think you're thinking it over, weighing the pros and cons of the car.
the seller will probably come down some himself.
when I bought my integra I went over it very carefully, just pointing out the good and the bad parts. not mentioning price at all (it was only a $500 car).
the seller ended up, without me negotiating at all, saying give me $250 for it.
of course I said sold .
sometimes silence is the best negotiating tool.
just let them think you're thinking it over, weighing the pros and cons of the car.
the seller will probably come down some himself.
#30
Guest
Posts: n/a
Thats what I did on the VG5speed I just bought. I just looked at it over compeltely and checked the fluids under the hood and kinda frowned a little, and stared at the insanely dirty interior. And only haggled a little and he came down from 700 to $450.
~Alex
~Alex
#31
I guess you guys can give me a big VE welcome...
Just bought it. 5-spd as well. I can't say Im too happy though. Yes, it looks like a beauty from the inside out.. But once I started it, Im sure you guys know what I heard. The dealer was actually tryin to play it off as if this is the first time he heard it So basically from $2,995, the best I could do was $2,200.. I told him about the VTC's and how it's expensive to repair and shi*, but his partner was being a tough guy, and saying he doesn't care. Given me the "This price is reasonable for this car, and I need to make something off it" crap. Thats pretty close to what I was looking to pay regardless, but I wasn't expecting the clacking. Not yet anyway. What are my options? Am I the biggest fool in history for getting it? It just looks really good on the outside. No scratches or anything. Clean CarFax history. One owner, highway miles, etc. 136K in all. 10,000 miles a year average was put on it. Looks very well cared for. It has no leather, but the interior is beautiful and he has a CD changer in the trunk. Also a sunroof. AC, ABS, etc. I also popped the rear seat to check for rust.. I don't know.. Im no expert, but I didn't see anything out of the ordinary. So what do you guys think? Did I get ripped off, or what? And am I loosing power even after the VTC clacking goes away when she warms up? How much?
P.S.- I'll have pics up as soon as I get her home.
Edit: I almost forgot.. We didn't do any paperwork yet, so I can still back out of this. If something feels off from what I explained about the car, let me know please! Thanks alot.
P.S.- I'll have pics up as soon as I get her home.
Edit: I almost forgot.. We didn't do any paperwork yet, so I can still back out of this. If something feels off from what I explained about the car, let me know please! Thanks alot.
#32
Guest
Posts: n/a
From what Ive read about VTC's you probably are fine for a while, as clicking only when warm is a pretty early sign, failure is pretty far off, it shouldn't be loosing any power.
Id say you got a good deal. For the rust, pop the trunk and give the drivers side a good yank, if it falls off, it needs the recall, if it doesnt and your curious, just take off the cover and check it out. Id say as long as the fluids are fine, its not missing and it runs good I would take it and do the manitence it needs. I wish I had a VE, but only for now as Im going turbo later!
~Alex
Id say you got a good deal. For the rust, pop the trunk and give the drivers side a good yank, if it falls off, it needs the recall, if it doesnt and your curious, just take off the cover and check it out. Id say as long as the fluids are fine, its not missing and it runs good I would take it and do the manitence it needs. I wish I had a VE, but only for now as Im going turbo later!
~Alex
#33
It sounds like a pretty fair deal. If the interior and exterior are solid and it seems to run and drive good, sounds very reasonable to me.
$2200 for a clean car with some VTC tick is pretty good.
I paid $2500 for mine and it had 148k, VTC tick and needed a new clutch pedal assembly ($50 at a junkyard). My car is very clean and I liked that about it. A lot of guys on this site have ticking VTCs and I can only recall two that actually had an engine malfunction because of this. Change the oil religously and use the Toyota filter and you should help prolong the life of the VTCs several years, at least.
$2200 for a clean car with some VTC tick is pretty good.
I paid $2500 for mine and it had 148k, VTC tick and needed a new clutch pedal assembly ($50 at a junkyard). My car is very clean and I liked that about it. A lot of guys on this site have ticking VTCs and I can only recall two that actually had an engine malfunction because of this. Change the oil religously and use the Toyota filter and you should help prolong the life of the VTCs several years, at least.
#36
Im still having problems getting the car home since it's in another state and I just had my first experience with a manual tranny the other day. I can't get it off the line without that tormented newbie shutter, cause I don't depress the clutch slow enough. I also don't really know the set time to change gears. I just upshift or downshift when it really isn't nessacery. Not as easy as I thought. So Im a bit scared that I will ruin the clutch or tranny, or something like that. I was smellin something burnt, after I finished practicing. I knew that wasn't good. The car also started to feel uneasy, as if it wasn't happy with my driving. So I just parked it, and left like I did yesterday. Anybody got any hints on learning to drive a stick? I just don't wanna mess anything up, which I feel Im doing right now. Basically, I just wanna know if these trannies can take a bit of a beating while I learn, cause I never really had the oppurtunity to learn or had anyone around me who knows how to drive a stick. I just don't wanna have to replace that clutch after I just bought the car, ya know.
#37
Originally Posted by Joe Fontinyatz
Im still having problems getting the car home since it's in another state and I just had my first experience with a manual tranny the other day. I can't get it off the line without that tormented newbie shutter, cause I don't depress the clutch slow enough. I also don't really know the set time to change gears. I just upshift or downshift when it really isn't nessacery. Not as easy as I thought. So Im a bit scared that I will ruin the clutch or tranny, or something like that. I was smellin something burnt, after I finished practicing. I knew that wasn't good. The car also started to feel uneasy, as if it wasn't happy with my driving. So I just parked it, and left like I did yesterday. Anybody got any hints on learning to drive a stick? I just don't wanna mess anything up, which I feel Im doing right now. Basically, I just wanna know if these trannies can take a bit of a beating while I learn, cause I never really had the oppurtunity to learn or had anyone around me who knows how to drive a stick. I just don't wanna have to replace that clutch after I just bought the car, ya know.
Bring a friend who can drive stick and have them drive it home. That's what I did when I bought my 5-speed. Although I already knew how to drive a stick decently, I didn't feel comfortable taking it on the interstate and through a bunch of crazy Massachusetts intersections. Bribe the friend with a free lunch if necessary.
#38
Guest
Posts: n/a
Ive been driving stick since just before the end of school I picked it up easy but I love this kinda stuff.
To get moving, rev the engine a little, like 1000-1500rpm or up to like 2200. Slowly relese the clutch to get the car moving. Best MPG shift soon, at like 4500 rpm. I usually just shift when ever the power drops off as I drive many diffrent cars.
Down shift when you know the mph your going isnt higher then the red line is. Also when doing that make sure you press the gas a little to bring the rpms up, so the clutch doesnt drag the engine up to speed. When to down shift is a learning process really. After about 3-4weeks of driving I got it down, but Id say down shift when you get around 1000-2500rpm and still need to slow down more. But Im not an expert.
Also you really dont need to down shift to slow down. When stopping I put it in neutral and left in the clutch and just use the brakes. It helps MPG and clutch and tranny life. Personaly I rarely down shift as your usually stoping. But like going to a passing gear on the highway press clutch, rev engine a little while shifting and let out the clutch.
Can you describe the smell? Rubber? oil? Something else? It might not be the clutch, Id check all the fluids and if you have already compare levels.
~Alex
To get moving, rev the engine a little, like 1000-1500rpm or up to like 2200. Slowly relese the clutch to get the car moving. Best MPG shift soon, at like 4500 rpm. I usually just shift when ever the power drops off as I drive many diffrent cars.
Down shift when you know the mph your going isnt higher then the red line is. Also when doing that make sure you press the gas a little to bring the rpms up, so the clutch doesnt drag the engine up to speed. When to down shift is a learning process really. After about 3-4weeks of driving I got it down, but Id say down shift when you get around 1000-2500rpm and still need to slow down more. But Im not an expert.
Also you really dont need to down shift to slow down. When stopping I put it in neutral and left in the clutch and just use the brakes. It helps MPG and clutch and tranny life. Personaly I rarely down shift as your usually stoping. But like going to a passing gear on the highway press clutch, rev engine a little while shifting and let out the clutch.
Can you describe the smell? Rubber? oil? Something else? It might not be the clutch, Id check all the fluids and if you have already compare levels.
~Alex
#39
Originally Posted by Mizeree_X
Bring a friend who can drive stick and have them drive it home. That's what I did when I bought my 5-speed. Although I already knew how to drive a stick decently, I didn't feel comfortable taking it on the interstate and through a bunch of crazy Massachusetts intersections. Bribe the friend with a free lunch if necessary.
Originally Posted by Alex_V
Ive been driving stick since just before the end of school I picked it up easy but I love this kinda stuff.
To get moving, rev the engine a little, like 1000-1500rpm or up to like 2200. Slowly relese the clutch to get the car moving. Best MPG shift soon, at like 4500 rpm. I usually just shift when ever the power drops off as I drive many diffrent cars.
Down shift when you know the mph your going isnt higher then the red line is. Also when doing that make sure you press the gas a little to bring the rpms up, so the clutch doesnt drag the engine up to speed. When to down shift is a learning process really. After about 3-4weeks of driving I got it down, but Id say down shift when you get around 1000-2500rpm and still need to slow down more. But Im not an expert.
Also you really dont need to down shift to slow down. When stopping I put it in neutral and left in the clutch and just use the brakes. It helps MPG and clutch and tranny life. Personaly I rarely down shift as your usually stoping. But like going to a passing gear on the highway press clutch, rev engine a little while shifting and let out the clutch.
Can you describe the smell? Rubber? oil? Something else? It might not be the clutch, Id check all the fluids and if you have already compare levels.
~Alex
To get moving, rev the engine a little, like 1000-1500rpm or up to like 2200. Slowly relese the clutch to get the car moving. Best MPG shift soon, at like 4500 rpm. I usually just shift when ever the power drops off as I drive many diffrent cars.
Down shift when you know the mph your going isnt higher then the red line is. Also when doing that make sure you press the gas a little to bring the rpms up, so the clutch doesnt drag the engine up to speed. When to down shift is a learning process really. After about 3-4weeks of driving I got it down, but Id say down shift when you get around 1000-2500rpm and still need to slow down more. But Im not an expert.
Also you really dont need to down shift to slow down. When stopping I put it in neutral and left in the clutch and just use the brakes. It helps MPG and clutch and tranny life. Personaly I rarely down shift as your usually stoping. But like going to a passing gear on the highway press clutch, rev engine a little while shifting and let out the clutch.
Can you describe the smell? Rubber? oil? Something else? It might not be the clutch, Id check all the fluids and if you have already compare levels.
~Alex
As for the fluid smell, I can't really put my finger on it, but it smelled like some type of burnt oil. I think there was a bit of smoke coming from under the hood. Or maybe my imagination, but something was smoking and it wasn't the muffler. Only smelled it after my beautiful 5spd techniques, not after the dealer test drove me. I actually do remember exactly the first time I smelled it. Was when I revved to like 4K and made her stall by accident
P.S.- Oh, and a last important question I keep tryin to figure out.. When upshifting, which way is safer.. As I clutch, I pick the gear, and right before I release the clutch, do I gas it a bit? Comes natural to me for some reason. Or should I just completely release the clutch and then gas after selecting the gear?
#40
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Originally Posted by Joe Fontinyatz
Hm, I see.. Thanks. But proper downshifting is a bit too extreme for my level right now. I just smack it in neautral, brake, hold the clutch and be done with it. I hope thats okay to do.
Originally Posted by Joe Fontinyatz
While Im learning in the next few weeks, what would you recommend is the biggest "NO NO" to do that would really hurt my tranny in the long run, or even hurt it now? Riding the clutch? Not shifting properly, or taking off incorrectly? Having it constantly stall out? Etc?
Originally Posted by Joe Fontinyatz
As for the fluid smell, I can't really put my finger on it, but it smelled like some type of burnt oil. I think there was a bit of smoke coming from under the hood. Or maybe my imagination, but something was smoking and it wasn't the muffler. Only smelled it after my beautiful 5spd techniques, not after the dealer test drove me. I actually do remember exactly the first time I smelled it. Was when I revved to like 4K and made her stall by accident
Originally Posted by Joe Fontinyatz
P.S.- Oh, and a last important question I keep tryin to figure out.. When upshifting, which way is safer.. As I clutch, I pick the gear, and right before I release the clutch, do I gas it a bit? Comes natural to me for some reason. Or should I just completely release the clutch and then gas after selecting the gear?
Im finding its much more comfortable for everyone if I hold gas at current position, push clutch in, and let off gas slowly, then upshift. That gets rid of most of the jerk forward when lefting off the gas fast and pushing in the clutch fast. I do most of my driving alone so I dont notice this untill some one is in the car. What do you do 5 speed masters?
~Alex