Doing timing belt, what parts do I need?
07-10-2005, 05:29 PM
#1
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Join Date: Oct 2003
Posts: 678
Doing timing belt, what parts do I need?
Ok, so I am gonna do the timing belt pretty shortly here and I have the following items to shop for:
-timing belt
-timing belt tensioner
-water pump
-front main seal
-drive belts (power steering, alternator)
What else am I missing/should I replace when I am in there?
-timing belt
-timing belt tensioner
-water pump
-front main seal
-drive belts (power steering, alternator)
What else am I missing/should I replace when I am in there?
07-11-2005, 02:09 AM
#5
The 60,000 miles maintenance as prescribed by Nissan includes the Camshaft oil seals. Good thing you waited. You saved 15 minutes of work and a few bucks so that you can do it all over again when they start leaking.
Waiting until something breaks to fix it is irresponsible and foolish. Preventative maintenance is the key to avoiding breakdowns and accidents.
Waiting until something breaks to fix it is irresponsible and foolish. Preventative maintenance is the key to avoiding breakdowns and accidents.
07-11-2005, 02:58 AM
#6
Originally Posted by Pervis Anathema
The 60,000 miles maintenance as prescribed by Nissan includes the Camshaft oil seals. Good thing you waited. You saved 15 minutes of work and a few bucks so that you can do it all over again when they start leaking.
Waiting until something breaks to fix it is irresponsible and foolish. Preventative maintenance is the key to avoiding breakdowns and accidents.
Waiting until something breaks to fix it is irresponsible and foolish. Preventative maintenance is the key to avoiding breakdowns and accidents.
07-11-2005, 03:53 AM
#11
i realize im taking a big chance by not doing it but when u dnt have the dinero to do it it just has to wait. and since im 52 yrs old i only use the car to go to church and supermarket. can u tell me what wld happen if it goes while im driving.
07-11-2005, 06:26 AM
#12
Member
Join Date: May 2005
Posts: 88
Originally Posted by maxima94ever
i realize im taking a big chance by not doing it but when u dnt have the dinero to do it it just has to wait. and since im 52 yrs old i only use the car to go to church and supermarket. can u tell me what wld happen if it goes while im driving.
07-11-2005, 06:44 AM
#14
cam and crank seals should ALWAYS be replaced when you do the timing belt.
in the case of a VE, you don't have any of those issues and simply need to replace the crank seal whenever it starts leaking. often it's the oil pan lip seal below it that leaks though. still an easy fix. remove crank pulley, clean area with brake cleaner or other solvent, let dry, then dab some RTV silicone around that lip seal. it will stop the leak around the seal since there's no actual oil pressure there- just the stuff dripping back into the pan from the heads and timing chain.
Back to the VG... you might want to make sure your dealer has a spare crankshaft timing gear and the metal plate thingies in stock. often those things are beaten up/knicked/scratched while trying to pry it off to get to the crank seal. the gear itself is about $35 and the plates shouldnt' be more than a couple of bucks.
just throwing that gear away and replacing it will take less time and money than trying to resurface the gear after prying on it for 45 min to get it off...
oh.. and penetrating oil is your friend. trust me on that one. keep that crankshaft well oiled the whole time you're working on the top end and it will help when getting the crank gear off.
in the case of a VE, you don't have any of those issues and simply need to replace the crank seal whenever it starts leaking. often it's the oil pan lip seal below it that leaks though. still an easy fix. remove crank pulley, clean area with brake cleaner or other solvent, let dry, then dab some RTV silicone around that lip seal. it will stop the leak around the seal since there's no actual oil pressure there- just the stuff dripping back into the pan from the heads and timing chain.
Back to the VG... you might want to make sure your dealer has a spare crankshaft timing gear and the metal plate thingies in stock. often those things are beaten up/knicked/scratched while trying to pry it off to get to the crank seal. the gear itself is about $35 and the plates shouldnt' be more than a couple of bucks.
just throwing that gear away and replacing it will take less time and money than trying to resurface the gear after prying on it for 45 min to get it off...
oh.. and penetrating oil is your friend. trust me on that one. keep that crankshaft well oiled the whole time you're working on the top end and it will help when getting the crank gear off.
07-11-2005, 08:51 AM
#15
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Join Date: Oct 2003
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I am 6k miles away from the change. Think I should wait it out a few more thousand miles or go ahead and get it done? The engine is making a whining noise from inside the car on that side of the engine where all the belts are. Not sure if its a tensioner making that noise or the water pump.
07-11-2005, 01:00 PM
#24
don't worry about the spring. you only use it once to help rotate the tensioner when you first put the belt on. once you tighten the nut on the tensioner, that spring doesn't do anything until you take the tensioner off again.
07-12-2005, 04:15 AM
#27
Originally Posted by Matt93SE
don't worry about the spring. you only use it once to help rotate the tensioner when you first put the belt on. once you tighten the nut on the tensioner, that spring doesn't do anything until you take the tensioner off again.
07-12-2005, 07:21 AM
#28
Originally Posted by Pervis Anathema
And the FSM does a beautiful job of precisely illustrating how a properly adjusted tensioner should look.
the problem is it mentions that you turn it clockwise, instead of counter-clockwise.
what's even more fun is lining up the distributor. If you follow the picture of where it should be once its installed, it puts it about 30 degrees off--which makes it real fun when you fire it up because the exhaust valve is open when the ignition fires. do it with the Y pipe off and you shoot fireballs out of the ex manifolds! makes some REALLY cool sounds too!
:If you follow the marks on the distributor and install it like the instructions say, then it will line up. the thing should be pointing roughly 7-8 o'clock if you're standing at the front of the car.. the FSM shows it to be pointing around 11 o'clock. doh!
07-12-2005, 09:46 AM
#30
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Join Date: Oct 2003
Posts: 678
Where can I get torque specs for everything I will be taking apart/re-assembling online?
Sorry for my large picture of my RSX type-s, my picture shrinking program is on my home pc. I will reduce the size once I get home tonight from work.
Sorry for my large picture of my RSX type-s, my picture shrinking program is on my home pc. I will reduce the size once I get home tonight from work.
07-12-2005, 09:47 AM
#31
Make that sig smaller or be banned. 2nd warning. You have exactly until I eat lunch in two hours.
Originally Posted by ArcticDC5
Where can I get torque specs for everything I will be taking apart/re-assembling online?
07-12-2005, 09:52 AM
#32
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Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: EU Scandinavia
Posts: 4,323
Jeff, I want u opinion on this pic/issue, pls: http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=416523
07-12-2005, 10:00 AM
#34
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Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: EU Scandinavia
Posts: 4,323
...no I mean this mechanical problem my brains have, on that mentioned thread:
pic: http://memimage.cardomain.net/member...7_364_full.jpg
pic: http://memimage.cardomain.net/member...7_364_full.jpg
07-12-2005, 10:00 AM
#35
ummmm, i followed the sig pic guidelines of size, but i made it smaller than the largest possible because im courteous to others. you cant get respect when you put a huge full screen image of an rsx as your sig. you could however take the pic link out of your sig.
i also did the rhd swap in 2 hours
oh and torque specs can be found in the FSM on page 21 of section GI (general info)...or a chiltons or haynes will have that too
i also did the rhd swap in 2 hours
oh and torque specs can be found in the FSM on page 21 of section GI (general info)...or a chiltons or haynes will have that too
07-12-2005, 04:18 PM
#37
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Join Date: Jul 2004
Posts: 224
I'm just past 118k on mine (if you believe the odometer, heh) 2k from what I believe is the change interval :|
I really don't want to do the belt/stuff...or pay someone to do it for me :| Seems worth it though, I guess. I love my beater...it runs and drives great, despite its looks.
I really don't want to do the belt/stuff...or pay someone to do it for me :| Seems worth it though, I guess. I love my beater...it runs and drives great, despite its looks.
07-12-2005, 05:09 PM
#38
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can u guys clarify this for me:
i took off my distributor to change both valve cover gaskets on my new motor for my '93 and did not notice that the rotor moved out of place. well, i ended up puttin' the cams and crank at factory timin' marks and installed new timin' belt and i also double checked that piston #1 was at TDC but what i didn't realize was the rotor in the distributor was pointin' to spark plug terminal #3 instead of #1??? now i was told that since piston #1 is at TDC the rotor should also be pointin' to spark plug terminal #1 under distributor cap. <--- is this correct???
i took off my distributor to change both valve cover gaskets on my new motor for my '93 and did not notice that the rotor moved out of place. well, i ended up puttin' the cams and crank at factory timin' marks and installed new timin' belt and i also double checked that piston #1 was at TDC but what i didn't realize was the rotor in the distributor was pointin' to spark plug terminal #3 instead of #1??? now i was told that since piston #1 is at TDC the rotor should also be pointin' to spark plug terminal #1 under distributor cap. <--- is this correct???
07-12-2005, 08:42 PM
#40
Originally Posted by GRNMAXDMON
can u guys clarify this for me:
i took off my distributor to change both valve cover gaskets on my new motor for my '93 and did not notice that the rotor moved out of place. well, i ended up puttin' the cams and crank at factory timin' marks and installed new timin' belt and i also double checked that piston #1 was at TDC but what i didn't realize was the rotor in the distributor was pointin' to spark plug terminal #3 instead of #1??? now i was told that since piston #1 is at TDC the rotor should also be pointin' to spark plug terminal #1 under distributor cap. <--- is this correct???
i took off my distributor to change both valve cover gaskets on my new motor for my '93 and did not notice that the rotor moved out of place. well, i ended up puttin' the cams and crank at factory timin' marks and installed new timin' belt and i also double checked that piston #1 was at TDC but what i didn't realize was the rotor in the distributor was pointin' to spark plug terminal #3 instead of #1??? now i was told that since piston #1 is at TDC the rotor should also be pointin' to spark plug terminal #1 under distributor cap. <--- is this correct???
Open your handy FSM. look on page EM-32. align the marks on the distributor as shown in the pictures, then install it. If you are standing in front of the car facing the back, it should be pointing at around 7-8 o'clock position, toward the front right corner of the car.
It SHOULD NOT be pointing at the 11 o'clock position as shown in the FSM.
As long as you align the marks according to the picture above it, then it will go into the right place. if it doesn't fire, pull it out, turn the engine a full turn, then do it again.