I know all of us .org members have seen from time to time posts about VE's that stall. But who actually reads those posts if that particular problem doesn't apply to them? Not me.
Unfortuantely though, my VE has caught the dreaded "stall" problem and it comes and goes from time to time. It never really happened that often to make a post about it so I just ignored the problem, untill yesterday when I had a lot of driving to do (about 170 miles in one day with the A/C on) and when I got off the freeway to my destination, it stalled no kidding, between 15-20 times in city traffic!!!!
every time I would come to a light, I would just put it in neutral to avoid to rpm's dropping too low and shutting off. Then when the light would turn green I would put it back in "D" and it would still stall on me if I didn't give it gas in time.
Anyway, I just wanted to see some repost of some replies that were given to other VE guys who had the same problem. My guess is the VTC's. I notice that when I turn them on, my idle is more stable, and when I turn them off, my engine tends to be a little erratic. (I have a toggle switch for the VTC's). Anyway, lemme know if there's something that could be on it's way out, a sensor, a mechanical part, etc. etc.

5 cents on coilpacks

Iacv............

No way! you think that their heating up too much after long drives? They are the original ones after all. 146K on them right now. Does that tell you anything?

Iacv? whats that?

i had the same thing, check ignition coils for cracks.

it can vary from day to day based on humidity in the air because the voltage leak will vary.

Its only hearsay I can offer with the superior VGE distributor lol, but coilpacks yess especially because of THE 146k. I keep my 5 cents tHere.

Jeff may also be right... at least its cheap to clean it up.

IACV is like this, location 'somewhat different' in VE, see also LINKS:
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/748507/4

as jeff said IACV aka Idle Air Control Valve.
it controls your idle speed

One typical stunt for sticking IACV steppermotor is that after revving the engine dies and/or barely recovers idling. If/when the idle is steady, it does NOT stutter until engine is loaded again. Ign/coilpack trouble is more random, continuous.

I suggest you go back and read all of the threads you admitted to not reading. I tend to read every thread about mechanical problems because you never know when it will happen to your own car.

...........

It would help to go back and read some threads, even though I have a feeling it isn't your coil packs.

Is your car stalling on acceleration or just when you were decelerating/stopped? You weren't very clear on that. The stalling that occurs with coil packs usually happens on hard acceleration, at least from what I have read in the threads about it.

Since you have an AT, some of the things might be different, but I will give you my $.02

Before you do anything, I would check the ECU and see if it throws any codes at you. If it does, this gives you a good starting point. If you don't know how to do this, dig through the stickies. The info is there, but it takes a couple of links to find it.

Otherwise, my first guess would be that if you put your VTCs on a switch, that is causing your problems. When I "grounded" my VTCs, I could not get my idle to sit right. It would die a lot of the time at stoplights and when I pushed the clutch in. I am not sure what causes it, but my VTCs were pretty far gone when I did this. You might want to try leaving them as-is (not grounded) for a while and see if this helps the stalling.

If that isn't the cause, then I would follow Jeff along the IACV or possibly the TPS route.

The stalling is only on deceleration. I'm going to get some coilpacks through interenetautomart but in the meantime, can anyone give me a more detailed location or a more detailed pic. on how to clean/replace the IACV? PLEASE!!!! Posibly for a VE and not a VG (sorry Wiking, when i go from VE to VG i'm completely lost).

Sure. But there's the nissan manual fo this purPose...

On a peace of crap car, I'd say its EGR valve. On the max I'd suggest checking the connector on the MAFS.

The IACV is directly below the TB. It has a screw sticking out (idle adjustment screw) facing the radiator. There are two electrical plugs: one puple and one kind of a reddish brown color. Trying to clean it without taking it off is kind of useless, though. It might help a tiny bit, but looking at the inside of it, not much cleaner will reach the parts that need to be cleaned.

After thinking on it a bit, the EGR vavle is another very likely problem, along with vacuum leaks. All of that crap is connected when you have idle problems. This is basically what you have. Yours isn't actually stalling, the idle won't hold.

Maybe This Will Help?




Erik
______
I know noooothing. Yet I need to figger out what to fill my 15 posts with BEFORE I can educate myself by asking my own Q's.
14 posts to go.....

ACH!

It's a little better, but it's still the pic. of a VG. If you had the same pic. but of a VE, it would help out a whole lot more.

Autozone online

Mizeree for President 2006

And Dan is absolutely correct



Green = IACV
Red = throttle body
Brown = EGR
Blue = Tube that goes from the intake manifold, just behind the throttle body down to the IACV.

MAF possibly? I had a crack in mine and had similar symptoms, lots of stalling; the warmer the more often it happened.

To begin with, I have to agree with you. Myself included I never paid too much attention to threads (mechanical, electrical, susp, etc) if I wasn't or have never had the same problem.

So here's my $0.02
First thing I'll like to know are you still having the stalling problem since it's been four days from your original post? Sometimes cars can mysteriously fix themselves, or the problem will go away for a long time and may or may not return.

The IACV is a good possibility but you really need to check and pull the engine codes. Also check for tranny codes since you have a auto. A stuck torque converter can cause a stalling problem, especially a case like yours when decelerating.

As mention I really don't think it's coil packs related. A coil pack going bad usually shows its face when under a load. 3 out of 6 coil packs on my car are crack. Under a load I was able to feel a slight hesitation (or engine miss) at times, and the 3 crack coils did show signs of arching. Simply wraping my coils with electrical tape have solved my problem for the past 3yrs.

well, amazingly, it's been 5 days now and the car hasn't stalled yet. I shot a can load of Valvevoline Intake TB cleaner down the intake manifold a day after all this happened and the car hasn't stalled since. I'm not saying the problem isn't going to come back, but everything seems fine now. The VE is a mysterious motor.

Where did you shoot "a can load of Valvoline Intake TB cleaner" exactly?

Can anyone tell me where the plug is to change the transmission fluid on a auto?

Depends on the box. Both Types in the FSM; check Favorite Links
http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/748507/1

mine was/is on the oil pan.

To bring up old comments:

I had replaced the:
Coil pack
Plugs
MAF
TPS
CPS
ECU
IACV
Knock Sensor

I took it to a mechanic and he had the car for 4 weeks, another customer of his with a VE came in for some other work, and he tried all of their sensors on my car as well, with no luck.

I sold the car with the problem, as far as I know he took it to a Nissan dealer, they did a "tuneup" and it increased the interval of stalling from everday (20 miles) to about 200 miles. I have no idea what they did, but it still did not solve the problem.

Peace,
Brian

apparently the coolant temp sender can be alittle PITA with this stuff

down the intake manifold. I held the TB open and shot it down there. I also had the engine suck down some steaming hot water to maybe help clean up the vavles a little bit. it's been about 490 miles now without a sign of stalling. (yet).

ok less reading on the mustang forums for you lol




the water thing is to siphon a small ammount of water into the engine when it is at operating temp. Mist is the key word actually. Like you would seafoam.

Also most TB cleaner is not actually meant for use inside of engines. Just throw it on a rag and clean it lol, its not going to accomplish much just going through it like that

You should just spend the hour or so removing and cleaning your TB and IACV. You basically just wasted a can of TB cleaner. I don't know about the hot water thing. Water just doesn't seem right anywhere but in the cooling system.


Oh, if you are going to take off and clean TB and IACV, buy the gaskets (and wait for them to arrive at the dealership) before you actually take anything apart.

Mine is a 91 se. I dont think its on the oil pan? Does it actually have a plug or dose it have the pan that comes off to replace the filter,gasket,etc?