5 speed swap first problem...
#1
5 speed swap first problem...
So I've started the 5 speed swap, and this time I have a digital camera!
First a small presentation of my two max's (the left one beeing the parts car) here.
There are more pictures here.
The problem I have is with the clutch master cylinder. In the auto there are no hole in the cockpit wall, of course, and I don't know how to make one so it'll be the correct size and in the correct place since the space is like nada and inside the car there's all that wiring going very close to the place you're suppose to drill, how however it's done.
How did you guys solve that?
First a small presentation of my two max's (the left one beeing the parts car) here.
There are more pictures here.
The problem I have is with the clutch master cylinder. In the auto there are no hole in the cockpit wall, of course, and I don't know how to make one so it'll be the correct size and in the correct place since the space is like nada and inside the car there's all that wiring going very close to the place you're suppose to drill, how however it's done.
How did you guys solve that?
#3
Originally Posted by subs1000w
angle drill and a drill bit/hole saw
made a cardboard template from the parts car
made a cardboard template from the parts car
#5
Originally Posted by GRNMAXDMON
haha me too
I worry about getting the holes good enough though... it's a pretty tight spot to get anything close...
Btw, what do I do with the A/T control unit? Do I just disconnect it and leave it be or do I have to rewire some cables..?
And also, how did you guys do with the sensor to the clutch pedal? Is there a corresponding cable in the auto as well?
#6
Originally Posted by Phatsta
Looks like it's the only way to go
I worry about getting the holes good enough though... it's a pretty tight spot to get anything close...
Btw, what do I do with the A/T control unit? Do I just disconnect it and leave it be or do I have to rewire some cables..?
And also, how did you guys do with the sensor to the clutch pedal? Is there a corresponding cable in the auto as well?
I worry about getting the holes good enough though... it's a pretty tight spot to get anything close...
Btw, what do I do with the A/T control unit? Do I just disconnect it and leave it be or do I have to rewire some cables..?
And also, how did you guys do with the sensor to the clutch pedal? Is there a corresponding cable in the auto as well?
leave the A/T control unit alone. u don't need to tamper with that at all. and u don't need to do anything with the sensors for the clutch pedal. just do the rewire in the park/neutral safety switch harness from the 5-speed tranny to the auto tranny harness and ur done.
#9
Originally Posted by Wiking
Is that sparecar the Torneå -car? ...can I ask priset?
If you wanna have any spare parts or something off of it let me know and I'll give you a good price. (Unless I need it myself )
#10
Originally Posted by GRNMAXDMON
leave the A/T control unit alone. u don't need to tamper with that at all. and u don't need to do anything with the sensors for the clutch pedal. just do the rewire in the park/neutral safety switch harness from the 5-speed tranny to the auto tranny harness and ur done.
How exactly do I rewire it? I mean what should I wire them to..?
#11
Originally Posted by Phatsta
Yes it is, priset was 7000SEK. A steal if you ask me
If you wanna have any spare parts or something off of it let me know and I'll give you a good price. (Unless I need it myself )
If you wanna have any spare parts or something off of it let me know and I'll give you a good price. (Unless I need it myself )
lets see:
- hood for scoop
- MAF for mod
- Intakes fo mod
- small spare tire?
...= actually no need at the moment. But u never know if morrow brings sorrow, next week at spares seek...
#12
Alright so I've come as far as taking out everything out of both cars, now remains the mounting of everything. A couple of questions though if someone would be kind enough to help me
1. The wiring of the park/neutral, what wire harness is that? Where is it located? (Only so I know I've understood this correctly)
2. The flywheel should be wrenched at a certain torque, right? What's that? Anything else that should be torque wrenched?
Thanks
1. The wiring of the park/neutral, what wire harness is that? Where is it located? (Only so I know I've understood this correctly)
2. The flywheel should be wrenched at a certain torque, right? What's that? Anything else that should be torque wrenched?
Thanks
#13
Originally Posted by Wiking
Torneå... NO? I say good price - is it runnin? Are there more such vehiculos...
lets see:
- hood for scoop
- MAF for mod
- Intakes fo mod
- small spare tire?
...= actually no need at the moment. But u never know if morrow brings sorrow, next week at spares seek...
lets see:
- hood for scoop
- MAF for mod
- Intakes fo mod
- small spare tire?
...= actually no need at the moment. But u never know if morrow brings sorrow, next week at spares seek...
Maybe there are more such cars, I don't know... look for yourself at www.blocket.se
I actually saw one for sale with unknown milage, a little modded in Kalmar I think it was for something like 5000SEK. You can't miss it.
#14
Originally Posted by Phatsta
Alright so I've come as far as taking out everything out of both cars, now remains the mounting of everything. A couple of questions though if someone would be kind enough to help me
1. The wiring of the park/neutral, what wire harness is that? Where is it located? (Only so I know I've understood this correctly)
2. The flywheel should be wrenched at a certain torque, right? What's that? Anything else that should be torque wrenched?
Thanks
1. The wiring of the park/neutral, what wire harness is that? Where is it located? (Only so I know I've understood this correctly)
2. The flywheel should be wrenched at a certain torque, right? What's that? Anything else that should be torque wrenched?
Thanks
I personally never messed with the wiring. I just swapped the entire ecu harness. It's not that hard....and you dont have to rewire anything. If you want to go that route...just unplug the engine wires from the ecu....pull it out through the engine bay and unplug everything its connected to. As for the flywheel...the torque specifications are in a chiltons manuel....but i dont have it.....I just did it a couple weeks ago...but id hate to tell you the wrong info. sorry
#15
Originally Posted by bobbydigital450
I personally never messed with the wiring. I just swapped the entire ecu harness. It's not that hard....and you dont have to rewire anything. If you want to go that route...just unplug the engine wires from the ecu....pull it out through the engine bay and unplug everything its connected to. As for the flywheel...the torque specifications are in a chiltons manuel....but i dont have it.....I just did it a couple weeks ago...but id hate to tell you the wrong info. sorry
#16
Wiking, help! This is your area...
I'm done with the swap, all that remains is the rewiring of the park/neutral cables. But I can't do anything because firstly I don't even know what cables they are and second what do I do with them... do I just shortcut them or what..?
I want to do it the quickest way possible so I can test drive the car. I wanna know for sure if it really does work now... kinda hard to belive after all this mess. Maybe I'll swap the harness some day but rather not today...
I'm done with the swap, all that remains is the rewiring of the park/neutral cables. But I can't do anything because firstly I don't even know what cables they are and second what do I do with them... do I just shortcut them or what..?
I want to do it the quickest way possible so I can test drive the car. I wanna know for sure if it really does work now... kinda hard to belive after all this mess. Maybe I'll swap the harness some day but rather not today...
#18
Originally Posted by Phatsta
Alright so I've come as far as taking out everything out of both cars, now remains the mounting of everything. A couple of questions though if someone would be kind enough to help me
1. The wiring of the park/neutral, what wire harness is that? Where is it located? (Only so I know I've understood this correctly)
2. The flywheel should be wrenched at a certain torque, right? What's that? Anything else that should be torque wrenched?
Thanks
1. The wiring of the park/neutral, what wire harness is that? Where is it located? (Only so I know I've understood this correctly)
2. The flywheel should be wrenched at a certain torque, right? What's that? Anything else that should be torque wrenched?
Thanks
#20
I will take a little credit for that, too! For any of you guys doing the swap and not getting into the electrical side of it, that just seems silly to me. When I was done with my swap, everything worked just as it would if it came from the factory - neutral switch, reverse lights, as well as both switches on the clutch. What's the point of doing a shade-tree job?!? For me, the satisfaction of doing this job (as well as the countless other things I did to build my cars) came from figuring it out myself, and doing it right. Also, for the sake of everyone on here that does know what they are doing - for god's sake, get a FSM BEFORE you attempt a big project. A whole lot of your questions can be answered by looking in the book. Just like the public service announcements used to say - Reading is fundamental! I'm not trying to be a d!ck, but go to the book first, and then ask questions if you get stuck.
#21
Originally Posted by 90pearlSE
I will take a little credit for that, too! For any of you guys doing the swap and not getting into the electrical side of it, that just seems silly to me. When I was done with my swap, everything worked just as it would if it came from the factory - neutral switch, reverse lights, as well as both switches on the clutch. What's the point of doing a shade-tree job?!? For me, the satisfaction of doing this job (as well as the countless other things I did to build my cars) came from figuring it out myself, and doing it right. Also, for the sake of everyone on here that does know what they are doing - for god's sake, get a FSM BEFORE you attempt a big project. A whole lot of your questions can be answered by looking in the book. Just like the public service announcements used to say - Reading is fundamental! I'm not trying to be a d!ck, but go to the book first, and then ask questions if you get stuck.
1. I'm swedish so reading a FSM in technical english is a damn lifetime project since I have to look up like every third word or something. It's a lot more easy to combine understandable english and pictures.
2. Time was of the issue since I'm using a friends garage and he needs it by today so I need to be out of there.
3. I'm not doing this job just for the fun of it like you did. I really need my car to get to work, and I know in the U.S you have a lot better economy but ours is lousy so I can't afford getting another car and if I try to sell this max to get the money to buy another I'd lose around $3000 since I've taken a loan to buy it. So it's imperative that I get it up and running as soon as possible, preferrably to the lowest cost as possible.
That being said, I do enjoy working on the car. But I don't enjoy it as much when I have to as much as when I just want to. Maybe I'm a lazy and lame person in your eyes and for that I apologise, and if you don't want to answer any of my questions that's OK.
Thanks for your answer though, it was real helpful! It's running now anyways and I'll deal with the small things later, like electronics and stuff like that.
#22
I guess one of the biggest problems with message boards is that there is no real way to interpret the tone of a reply. When I read back over my post, I saw how it could be interpreted as mean or whatnot - hence the disclaimer at the end. From past experience, 99% of the people that have attempted to swap an auto for a manual did not do so out of necessity - the manual transmission is harder to find and it requires a good bit of work to do the swap. I did not do the swap on my car for fun, or to be cool, or to try to make a race car or any of that. My first Max was a 5spd that I bought when I was in NY, and the more work I had to do on it, the more work it needed. It had gotten pretty eaten up with rust and I bought a parts car for $200 to replace some of the rotten parts on the undercarriage. When I got the parts car home and really got to look it over, I realized that it was in my best interest to strip out my car to rebuilt this one. The parts car was straight with good paint and rust-free, but had a bad auto tranny and the complete interior, lights, mirrors, switches, etc had been parted out. I had all of the parts necessary to rebuild this car, and in the end I would have a better car that would last much longer than the original.
I also had money tied up in the first car that I was not willing to lose by selling it, and wouldn't have enough to replace it after taking the loss. Asside from the new suspension and a handful of common replacement parts, all I needed to do was invest the time and work into building the new car. So that's what I did. Sure, I've spent more here and there for some goodies and other common 3rd gen issues, but in the end I have a much nicer car that will last me for several years to come (knock on wood).
My comments in the last post were not directed specifically to you, but in general. More times than not, it seems that a lot of people on the boards attempt to do things they can't quite tackle and ask questions that could easily be answered by a manual - and if you (general, again) are serious about keeping your car maintained, a FSM or *shudder* a Chilton or Haines manual is an essential tool. So do yourself (general) a favor and buy the book - it's probably the single best investment you can make for your car.
That is all.
Peace
I also had money tied up in the first car that I was not willing to lose by selling it, and wouldn't have enough to replace it after taking the loss. Asside from the new suspension and a handful of common replacement parts, all I needed to do was invest the time and work into building the new car. So that's what I did. Sure, I've spent more here and there for some goodies and other common 3rd gen issues, but in the end I have a much nicer car that will last me for several years to come (knock on wood).
My comments in the last post were not directed specifically to you, but in general. More times than not, it seems that a lot of people on the boards attempt to do things they can't quite tackle and ask questions that could easily be answered by a manual - and if you (general, again) are serious about keeping your car maintained, a FSM or *shudder* a Chilton or Haines manual is an essential tool. So do yourself (general) a favor and buy the book - it's probably the single best investment you can make for your car.
That is all.
Peace
#23
isnt changing the spark plugs and oil every 900 miles a little excessive? (thats what your site says at the bottom of the first page)
#24
Originally Posted by Phatsta
I'm swedish so reading a FSM in technical english is a damn lifetime project since I have to look up like every third word or something. It's a lot more easy to combine understandable english and pictures.
#25
Originally Posted by 90pearlSE
I guess one of the biggest problems with message boards is that there is no real way to interpret the tone of a reply. When I read back over my post, I saw how it could be interpreted as mean or whatnot - hence the disclaimer at the end. From past experience, 99% of the people that have attempted to swap an auto for a manual did not do so out of necessity - the manual transmission is harder to find and it requires a good bit of work to do the swap. I did not do the swap on my car for fun, or to be cool, or to try to make a race car or any of that. My first Max was a 5spd that I bought when I was in NY, and the more work I had to do on it, the more work it needed. It had gotten pretty eaten up with rust and I bought a parts car for $200 to replace some of the rotten parts on the undercarriage. When I got the parts car home and really got to look it over, I realized that it was in my best interest to strip out my car to rebuilt this one. The parts car was straight with good paint and rust-free, but had a bad auto tranny and the complete interior, lights, mirrors, switches, etc had been parted out. I had all of the parts necessary to rebuild this car, and in the end I would have a better car that would last much longer than the original.
I also had money tied up in the first car that I was not willing to lose by selling it, and wouldn't have enough to replace it after taking the loss. Asside from the new suspension and a handful of common replacement parts, all I needed to do was invest the time and work into building the new car. So that's what I did. Sure, I've spent more here and there for some goodies and other common 3rd gen issues, but in the end I have a much nicer car that will last me for several years to come (knock on wood).
My comments in the last post were not directed specifically to you, but in general. More times than not, it seems that a lot of people on the boards attempt to do things they can't quite tackle and ask questions that could easily be answered by a manual - and if you (general, again) are serious about keeping your car maintained, a FSM or *shudder* a Chilton or Haines manual is an essential tool. So do yourself (general) a favor and buy the book - it's probably the single best investment you can make for your car.
That is all.
Peace
I also had money tied up in the first car that I was not willing to lose by selling it, and wouldn't have enough to replace it after taking the loss. Asside from the new suspension and a handful of common replacement parts, all I needed to do was invest the time and work into building the new car. So that's what I did. Sure, I've spent more here and there for some goodies and other common 3rd gen issues, but in the end I have a much nicer car that will last me for several years to come (knock on wood).
My comments in the last post were not directed specifically to you, but in general. More times than not, it seems that a lot of people on the boards attempt to do things they can't quite tackle and ask questions that could easily be answered by a manual - and if you (general, again) are serious about keeping your car maintained, a FSM or *shudder* a Chilton or Haines manual is an essential tool. So do yourself (general) a favor and buy the book - it's probably the single best investment you can make for your car.
That is all.
Peace
I do have the FSM and the Haynes manual and I've done repairs in the past all on my own thanks to those. And I'll continue doing that. But with some things that seem a bit more advanced, like electronics specifically, I'll rather hear it from someone who knows than to read out of a manual and hope I've understood it correctly then take a chance and if I screw up it's gonna be double as expensive. It's sort of a comfort to hear it from you guys.
I haven't really had the time to sit down and readu up on the electrical system, but I know it can't be that difficult so I am gonna try that one of these days.
Very thankful for all of you and your answers though, and I want you to know that.
/Daniel
#26
Originally Posted by acidspit86
isnt changing the spark plugs and oil every 900 miles a little excessive? (thats what your site says at the bottom of the first page)
And on top of that I really really love this car. My car is more worth to me than any woman would ever be so I think she deserves nothing but the best treatment. I'm still learning about her though, since I've only dealt with 'stupid' cars like old volvos and cars that has nothing but the basic mechanical stuff.
Originally Posted by Joe Fontinyatz
Hey, you and Wiking seem to be neighbors.. Maybe he can help you out
#27
Originally Posted by Phatsta
Wiking, help! This is your area...
I'm done with the swap, all that remains is the rewiring of the park/neutral cables. But I can't do anything because firstly I don't even know what cables they are and second what do I do with them... do I just shortcut them or what..?
I want to do it the quickest way possible so I can test drive the car. I wanna know for sure if it really does work now... kinda hard to belive after all this mess. Maybe I'll swap the harness some day but rather not today...
I'm done with the swap, all that remains is the rewiring of the park/neutral cables. But I can't do anything because firstly I don't even know what cables they are and second what do I do with them... do I just shortcut them or what..?
I want to do it the quickest way possible so I can test drive the car. I wanna know for sure if it really does work now... kinda hard to belive after all this mess. Maybe I'll swap the harness some day but rather not today...
If u ask a specific q that I can trace from schema, I can give an opinion. Dunno how much value there would bee... Without deeper look, I would guess that taking the manual ECU and tying any loose signal wire to ground via 10k resistor would be ok. BUT. tHere are ppl who have done tHat stupid AT to man swap....
Note: Its not rude, but wisdom, not to display name, addr, reg plate, vin, installed stereos/goodies info in the net. If u do, expect not to see u car some rainy morning... There is a way for personal contact when that is needed. My neigbor; been in Gustavsvik while i Kumla jobbet. Current location is a semi secret...
#28
Originally Posted by Wiking
Not reAlly my 'area'... Have solved my slippin A/T electroNics problem.
If u ask a specific q that I can trace from schema, I can give an opinion. Dunno how much value there would bee... Without deeper look, I would guess that taking the manual ECU and tying any loose signal wire to ground via 10k resistor would be ok. BUT. tHere are ppl who have done tHat stupid AT to man swap....
Note: Its not rude, but wisdom, not to display name, addr, reg plate, vin, installed stereos/goodies info in the net. If u do, expect not to see u car some rainy morning... There is a way for personal contact when that is needed. My neigbor; been in Gustavsvik while i Kumla jobbet. Current location is a semi secret...
If u ask a specific q that I can trace from schema, I can give an opinion. Dunno how much value there would bee... Without deeper look, I would guess that taking the manual ECU and tying any loose signal wire to ground via 10k resistor would be ok. BUT. tHere are ppl who have done tHat stupid AT to man swap....
Note: Its not rude, but wisdom, not to display name, addr, reg plate, vin, installed stereos/goodies info in the net. If u do, expect not to see u car some rainy morning... There is a way for personal contact when that is needed. My neigbor; been in Gustavsvik while i Kumla jobbet. Current location is a semi secret...
Don't worry, I won't tell them where you live, coz I don't even know
As for me I don't worry as much about name, adress and stuff like that. I've been putting out my details on the net for over 10 years and nothing related to that ever happened to me. The one who'd dare try would try no more coz he'd be in jail before he'd had a chance to blink. One good thing of living in this apartment house is that I have two jail guards as neighbours
Gustavsvik is like 5km from where I am now, that's cool! And in Kumla my parents live, so theoretically we could have met without knowing it. Let me know if you're coming over again and I'll invite you over for a coffee!
#29
Originally Posted by Phatsta
...very detailed info on your site, ...
Surely we've met. I said "Hejssan" - and youre about to say that u dont remember!!! ... After one night in the (only one: pls visit and get experimantal timetrip to Brezhnev -era) Kumla guest house used to spend nights in this place... cool place: http://www.scandic-hotels.se/grandhotel Cannot see next visit happening, but then, I did not even see the first one: The Eriksson Kumla plant has now been dismantled I suppose; all those 700 sony robots sold out?
#30
Originally Posted by Wiking
The info is related to the tranny slip problem & overall signal quality. Yours goes beyond: comparing two different products... But I want to dig out if u specify a problem.
Originally Posted by Wiking
Surely we've met. I said "Hejssan" - and youre about to say that u dont remember!!! ... After one night in the (only one: pls visit and get experimantal timetrip to Brezhnev -era) Kumla guest house used to spend nights in this place... cool place: http://www.scandic-hotels.se/grandhotel Cannot see next visit happening, but then, I did not even see the first one: The Eriksson Kumla plant has now been dismantled I suppose; all those 700 sony robots sold out?
Yeah Ericsson has cut down to almost nothing. Out of a couple of thousand employees there's like 50 left. Not much left of Kumla nowadays. After the shoe factories died came Ericsson, after that died was nothing but the enormous jail for the worst convicts in sweden. As I said two of my neighbours are working there (partially anyway) and they tell stories that's really hard to belive about the inside. And every once in a while a couple escapes and causes panic in all of Kumla. That's when you fear for your parents.
#31
Originally Posted by Phatsta
No need, I think I've got everything I need to get all the electronics involved working. ...
#32
but spark plugs man, those should last like at least 15000 - 30000 miles, more if there iridium or platinum, to me thats just kind of wasting money... but i guess copper plugs are pretty cheap
#33
Originally Posted by acidspit86
but spark plugs man, those should last like at least 15000 - 30000 miles, more if there iridium or platinum, to me thats just kind of wasting money... but i guess copper plugs are pretty cheap
But hey, 15000 miles sound a bit much..?
#34
Oh man I just made the biggest blunder
I do not change every 900 miles. I change every 6000 miles.
We don't use miles here in europe as you might know. Well some places do but not us anyway. So I use a mile - km distance converter and somehow I messed it up... don't know exactly what I did
Thanks for pointing that out acidspit86
I do not change every 900 miles. I change every 6000 miles.
We don't use miles here in europe as you might know. Well some places do but not us anyway. So I use a mile - km distance converter and somehow I messed it up... don't know exactly what I did
Thanks for pointing that out acidspit86
#35
Originally Posted by Phatsta
Hehe yeah... actually he lives in Finland but his sig says stockholm only because ppl tend to know stockholm better on the map. But he is very helpful though. He's one of the more tolerant, logical and knowledgeable persons I know of. He's great.
BTW, good to hear you got everything working successefully. I am going for this upgrade in the near future as well.
#36
Originally Posted by Joe Fontinyatz
Sounds good.. . hard to understand. ...
#37
Originally Posted by Joe Fontinyatz
Sounds good.. Then please share with him the translater or what ever it is you are using that is making me perfectly understand you. It's like a math problem sometimes trying to figure out what Wiking posts(no offense Walt ) Good info, but hard to understand.
BTW, good to hear you got everything working successefully. I am going for this upgrade in the near future as well.
BTW, good to hear you got everything working successefully. I am going for this upgrade in the near future as well.
Thanks, I hope your swap goes well! I can certainly not complain on mine, it was relatively painless. Much thanks to the internet and you guys. I tried to read up on what I needed to do before I got started, doing the job itself was pretty much basic except for electronics which is my Achilles heal... but it turned out just fine!
#38
Who would translate US this gibberish, full of grammatical errors: "Then please share with him the translater or what ever it is you are using that is making me perfectly understand you. "
#39
Sorry Wiking. Didn't mean to upset you. It still doesn't define the fact, that Phatsta is speaking as if he lives next door to me, and your not. Just trying to make it easier for you, and everyone else. What ever
#40
Sorry Fontjazz. Didn't mean to upset you. It still doesn't define the fact, that Phatsta is speaking as if he lives next door to me, and your not. Just trying to make it easier for you, and everyone else. What ever?
Dunno about your conversations with pasta, for me thisis just writing about vehicles including typos, NOT egopumping.
If u have problems reading, stopit. Veery simpl. Its wisdom to get own grammar edu classes thru FIRST before complainin others. Try typing som understandable, intelligent - About vehicles... Thats THE purpose in this forum.
Dunno about your conversations with pasta, for me thisis just writing about vehicles including typos, NOT egopumping.
If u have problems reading, stopit. Veery simpl. Its wisdom to get own grammar edu classes thru FIRST before complainin others. Try typing som understandable, intelligent - About vehicles... Thats THE purpose in this forum.