coilover setup
Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 2,106
alright guys, i'm going to tackle everything pertaining to me:
first off, i nixed the project because, in my eyes it was not worth it. for several reasons. the reasons being that first off the struts i used were entirely too short. like matt mentioned, the maxima uses an insanely short strut. my thinking was that the strut was actually quite long so i bought some struts (front) that were 8" shorter at full extension, this is availible travel mind you...12" stock vs. 4" with my setup..not good. then i used some 275lb/350lb springs. my whole idea i think was pretty good given what i know and what i had to work with (i paid $250 for everything said and done).
basically what i did was cut the top off of a blown up tokico, whacked that bronzish cap thingy off and cut it in half. bored out the strut body (where it bolts to the steering knuckle), slipped the new strut in with some spacers so the top sat flush with where i cut it (about an inch lower than 'stock'), pressed the bronze cap thingy back on and welded it all together. ooh i forgot to mention, while that cap was off, i slipped on the ground control sleeve, so almost the entire strut body was threaded. this coming after i hacked off the lower spring perches.
this gave me a spring/strut with no upper mounting.
solution? 4th gen upper mounts. i didnt have a bearing plate so i made my own (thanks to some A2 VW strut bearings and metal scraps). i also cut up my stock 3rd gen spring perches (upper) so they could fit inside the strut tower, upside down, to hold the spring in place (shakey design, planned to rework it once everything was semi-complete).
bolted everything together and found myself with a 4" drop with the springs adjusted all the way up. this was totally unacceptable as 4" is ridiculous, not only for bump steer but for tie rod and axle health. it looked semi-good though
onto the rears: in the rear, i didnt do too much. took some extra gland nuts and ground them down until the GC sleeve would just barely slip over (the sleeve sit maybe 1/8" above the gland nut and in the end i had to turn the gland nut and the sleeve in order to remove/replace the sleeve, hard to describe but it didnt move
)
after that i adjusted the collar as far down as it would go, bolted everything up and came up with a 2" rear drop. drove it like this for maybe 2 miles. it was ridiculously bouncy over bumps but there was almost no front->back weight transfer and on smooth surfaces, there was no body roll to speak of.
bumpsteer was frightening to say the least. 1 tire would hit a bump and the wheel would jerk hard that way. like the hand of god grabbed the tire and just yanked the car to the left/right. felt like i was going to blow up my tie rods trying to keep it going in a straight line.
dont be fooled, i've got actually got very little knowledge on the subject. i got most things for nothing or very next to nothing so it wasnt exactly proper stuff.
if i had to do it again, i'd use basically the same design with a far longer strut in the front (probably 10" vs. 4"), different springs and i'd actually do quite a bit of research on which struts would mesh with whatever springs i decided on.
definitely an interesting project..and to get it even close to where matt's setup is, i'd have to spend $700 more just to make it relatively safe and streetable. not worth it. if you're interested, wait till matt perfects his kit and starts selling it..if that ever happens. otherwise, someone buy my car and have a field day as its got every suspension mod, rebuilt motor, tranny, clutch, pulley, tons of extra stuff...$2500
first off, i nixed the project because, in my eyes it was not worth it. for several reasons. the reasons being that first off the struts i used were entirely too short. like matt mentioned, the maxima uses an insanely short strut. my thinking was that the strut was actually quite long so i bought some struts (front) that were 8" shorter at full extension, this is availible travel mind you...12" stock vs. 4" with my setup..not good. then i used some 275lb/350lb springs. my whole idea i think was pretty good given what i know and what i had to work with (i paid $250 for everything said and done).
basically what i did was cut the top off of a blown up tokico, whacked that bronzish cap thingy off and cut it in half. bored out the strut body (where it bolts to the steering knuckle), slipped the new strut in with some spacers so the top sat flush with where i cut it (about an inch lower than 'stock'), pressed the bronze cap thingy back on and welded it all together. ooh i forgot to mention, while that cap was off, i slipped on the ground control sleeve, so almost the entire strut body was threaded. this coming after i hacked off the lower spring perches.
this gave me a spring/strut with no upper mounting.
solution? 4th gen upper mounts. i didnt have a bearing plate so i made my own (thanks to some A2 VW strut bearings and metal scraps). i also cut up my stock 3rd gen spring perches (upper) so they could fit inside the strut tower, upside down, to hold the spring in place (shakey design, planned to rework it once everything was semi-complete).
bolted everything together and found myself with a 4" drop with the springs adjusted all the way up. this was totally unacceptable as 4" is ridiculous, not only for bump steer but for tie rod and axle health. it looked semi-good though
onto the rears: in the rear, i didnt do too much. took some extra gland nuts and ground them down until the GC sleeve would just barely slip over (the sleeve sit maybe 1/8" above the gland nut and in the end i had to turn the gland nut and the sleeve in order to remove/replace the sleeve, hard to describe but it didnt move
)after that i adjusted the collar as far down as it would go, bolted everything up and came up with a 2" rear drop. drove it like this for maybe 2 miles. it was ridiculously bouncy over bumps but there was almost no front->back weight transfer and on smooth surfaces, there was no body roll to speak of.
bumpsteer was frightening to say the least. 1 tire would hit a bump and the wheel would jerk hard that way. like the hand of god grabbed the tire and just yanked the car to the left/right. felt like i was going to blow up my tie rods trying to keep it going in a straight line.
dont be fooled, i've got actually got very little knowledge on the subject. i got most things for nothing or very next to nothing so it wasnt exactly proper stuff.
if i had to do it again, i'd use basically the same design with a far longer strut in the front (probably 10" vs. 4"), different springs and i'd actually do quite a bit of research on which struts would mesh with whatever springs i decided on.
definitely an interesting project..and to get it even close to where matt's setup is, i'd have to spend $700 more just to make it relatively safe and streetable. not worth it. if you're interested, wait till matt perfects his kit and starts selling it..if that ever happens. otherwise, someone buy my car and have a field day as its got every suspension mod, rebuilt motor, tranny, clutch, pulley, tons of extra stuff...$2500
Originally Posted by maxedout92max
the swap has 330hp right now... not saying whats done to the engine tho 
dont know how it is tho ... it was at the shop getting its goodies and they told me they dynoed it and told me 328 so i dont know if it hooks up in 1st or 2nd cause then the car went to get some lights shaved in the rear and painted
dont know how it is tho ... it was at the shop getting its goodies and they told me they dynoed it and told me 328 so i dont know if it hooks up in 1st or 2nd cause then the car went to get some lights shaved in the rear and painted
Originally Posted by MaDMaX024
alright guys, i'm going to tackle everything pertaining to me:
first off, i nixed the project because, in my eyes it was not worth it. for several reasons. the reasons being that first off the struts i used were entirely too short. like matt mentioned, the maxima uses an insanely short strut. my thinking was that the strut was actually quite long so i bought some struts (front) that were 8" shorter at full extension, this is availible travel mind you...12" stock vs. 4" with my setup..not good. then i used some 275lb/350lb springs. my whole idea i think was pretty good given what i know and what i had to work with (i paid $250 for everything said and done).
basically what i did was cut the top off of a blown up tokico, whacked that bronzish cap thingy off and cut it in half. bored out the strut body (where it bolts to the steering knuckle), slipped the new strut in with some spacers so the top sat flush with where i cut it (about an inch lower than 'stock'), pressed the bronze cap thingy back on and welded it all together. ooh i forgot to mention, while that cap was off, i slipped on the ground control sleeve, so almost the entire strut body was threaded. this coming after i hacked off the lower spring perches.
this gave me a spring/strut with no upper mounting.
solution? 4th gen upper mounts. i didnt have a bearing plate so i made my own (thanks to some A2 VW strut bearings and metal scraps). i also cut up my stock 3rd gen spring perches (upper) so they could fit inside the strut tower, upside down, to hold the spring in place (shakey design, planned to rework it once everything was semi-complete).
bolted everything together and found myself with a 4" drop with the springs adjusted all the way up. this was totally unacceptable as 4" is ridiculous, not only for bump steer but for tie rod and axle health. it looked semi-good though
onto the rears: in the rear, i didnt do too much. took some extra gland nuts and ground them down until the GC sleeve would just barely slip over (the sleeve sit maybe 1/8" above the gland nut and in the end i had to turn the gland nut and the sleeve in order to remove/replace the sleeve, hard to describe but it didnt move)
after that i adjusted the collar as far down as it would go, bolted everything up and came up with a 2" rear drop. drove it like this for maybe 2 miles. it was ridiculously bouncy over bumps but there was almost no front->back weight transfer and on smooth surfaces, there was no body roll to speak of.
bumpsteer was frightening to say the least. 1 tire would hit a bump and the wheel would jerk hard that way. like the hand of god grabbed the tire and just yanked the car to the left/right. felt like i was going to blow up my tie rods trying to keep it going in a straight line.
dont be fooled, i've got actually got very little knowledge on the subject. i got most things for nothing or very next to nothing so it wasnt exactly proper stuff.
if i had to do it again, i'd use basically the same design with a far longer strut in the front (probably 10" vs. 4"), different springs and i'd actually do quite a bit of research on which struts would mesh with whatever springs i decided on.
definitely an interesting project..and to get it even close to where matt's setup is, i'd have to spend $700 more just to make it relatively safe and streetable. not worth it. if you're interested, wait till matt perfects his kit and starts selling it..if that ever happens. otherwise, someone buy my car and have a field day as its got every suspension mod, rebuilt motor, tranny, clutch, pulley, tons of extra stuff...$2500
first off, i nixed the project because, in my eyes it was not worth it. for several reasons. the reasons being that first off the struts i used were entirely too short. like matt mentioned, the maxima uses an insanely short strut. my thinking was that the strut was actually quite long so i bought some struts (front) that were 8" shorter at full extension, this is availible travel mind you...12" stock vs. 4" with my setup..not good. then i used some 275lb/350lb springs. my whole idea i think was pretty good given what i know and what i had to work with (i paid $250 for everything said and done).
basically what i did was cut the top off of a blown up tokico, whacked that bronzish cap thingy off and cut it in half. bored out the strut body (where it bolts to the steering knuckle), slipped the new strut in with some spacers so the top sat flush with where i cut it (about an inch lower than 'stock'), pressed the bronze cap thingy back on and welded it all together. ooh i forgot to mention, while that cap was off, i slipped on the ground control sleeve, so almost the entire strut body was threaded. this coming after i hacked off the lower spring perches.
this gave me a spring/strut with no upper mounting.
solution? 4th gen upper mounts. i didnt have a bearing plate so i made my own (thanks to some A2 VW strut bearings and metal scraps). i also cut up my stock 3rd gen spring perches (upper) so they could fit inside the strut tower, upside down, to hold the spring in place (shakey design, planned to rework it once everything was semi-complete).
bolted everything together and found myself with a 4" drop with the springs adjusted all the way up. this was totally unacceptable as 4" is ridiculous, not only for bump steer but for tie rod and axle health. it looked semi-good though
onto the rears: in the rear, i didnt do too much. took some extra gland nuts and ground them down until the GC sleeve would just barely slip over (the sleeve sit maybe 1/8" above the gland nut and in the end i had to turn the gland nut and the sleeve in order to remove/replace the sleeve, hard to describe but it didnt move
)after that i adjusted the collar as far down as it would go, bolted everything up and came up with a 2" rear drop. drove it like this for maybe 2 miles. it was ridiculously bouncy over bumps but there was almost no front->back weight transfer and on smooth surfaces, there was no body roll to speak of.
bumpsteer was frightening to say the least. 1 tire would hit a bump and the wheel would jerk hard that way. like the hand of god grabbed the tire and just yanked the car to the left/right. felt like i was going to blow up my tie rods trying to keep it going in a straight line.
dont be fooled, i've got actually got very little knowledge on the subject. i got most things for nothing or very next to nothing so it wasnt exactly proper stuff.
if i had to do it again, i'd use basically the same design with a far longer strut in the front (probably 10" vs. 4"), different springs and i'd actually do quite a bit of research on which struts would mesh with whatever springs i decided on.
definitely an interesting project..and to get it even close to where matt's setup is, i'd have to spend $700 more just to make it relatively safe and streetable. not worth it. if you're interested, wait till matt perfects his kit and starts selling it..if that ever happens. otherwise, someone buy my car and have a field day as its got every suspension mod, rebuilt motor, tranny, clutch, pulley, tons of extra stuff...$2500
you fotgot too mention the car needs a Y-pipe
Originally Posted by maxedout92max
thanks vg man most of these people just paly follow the leader ... they dont know if anyone really drives a max and has money to do what ever they want to it... people do drive p.o.s and got mad work done to it... thats what most people dont get .... its not how the car looks or sounds.. its what it can do, thats what most sleepers are!!!!!!!! they are car that you wouldnt give a second look... all im sayin is some one might wanted to get a set you dont know who has money and who dont( you if your driving a p.o.s and down talking someone that is just making conversation with others and posting new **** that people dont know that is out there... you see some one said " whats coilovers" 
so if you dont have nothing good to say about someones questions or post they help them or dont say nothing dumb a$$.
matt and mr. gone this is not for u guys cause ur old skool and have tried everything but all the other followers you just told me what you know and thanks cause these are question that i have to ask when getting them made...but still just atleast ive done that but good luck trying.... im not crying just getting tired of people with there 2 cents these days...
so if you dont have nothing good to say about someones questions or post they help them or dont say nothing dumb a$$.matt and mr. gone this is not for u guys cause ur old skool and have tried everything but all the other followers you just told me what you know and thanks cause these are question that i have to ask when getting them made...but still just atleast ive done that but good luck trying.... im not crying just getting tired of people with there 2 cents these days...
nga plz
just because people don't post about it...doesn't mean it not happening.
Originally Posted by Matt93SE
no, he didn't use ANY upper spring perches and had the coilover springs sitting directly on his factory upper spring seats. 
:
:speaking of which....
how's that bearing on the upper strut mount holding up? are you still using those plates?
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
BPuff57
Advanced Suspension, Chassis, and Braking
33
Apr 16, 2020 05:15 AM
KabirUTA13
5th Generation Classifieds (2000-2003)
19
Oct 17, 2015 02:15 AM
NismoMaxi02
5th Generation Classifieds (2000-2003)
1
Oct 4, 2015 09:09 PM
JakeOfAllTrades
7th Generation Maxima (2009-2015)
1
Sep 30, 2015 03:16 PM