JAXMAX

Hey guys, my driver's side wiper will wipe kind of choppy if it's been in the rain wiping for a while...I just put new wipers on and they're nice, but that problem will occur if it's been rainin a while. Any comments on what i could do to have it stop or what might be wrong with it? thanks

Hectic

iTrader: (20)

smear butter all over your windshield??

DanNY

iTrader: (14)

rain x makes a compound that it scrubs the windshield..bon ami or something might work also. oh and soft scrub probably would work. just apply with a damp towel.

use that and get new wipers....stay away from the cheap wipers.

JAXMAX

i just bought new RAIN X wipers and they're a lot more quiet than my old ones, but they have that slight problem. I've been using rain x washer fluid and i've used the stuff that you rub on the window's as well. any other comments of suggestions?

Josh

iTrader: (5)

don't drive in the rain.

no mine do the same thing, i dont think it does any damaged so i just have gotten used to it. i try to use them as little as possible when rainx cant handle all the water.

JAXMAX

I think i might end up gettin a new pair of blades. I don't think i'll be able to get used to it.

Hectic

iTrader: (20)

ok, i'll be serious this happened to me for a week once. i was thinking at the time it was happening that it had to do with the type of rain, cold rain for example which is dry rain if that makes any sense. i just hit the washer fluid and it went away but would come back. the wipers were only a couple months old at the time so they weren't to blame. they might be causing your problem i dunno. rain x probably would work wonders on it like dan said. wiper fluid might do the trick as well though like it did for mine. don't try the butter though i can be sarcastic after i wake up sorry.

Wiking

When the rubber blade angle on the glass is not right, it starts jumPing on semidry glass. Take adjustable wrench and bend the arm: takes some testing before u get it right, be patient. The adjustment needed is quite small...

DanNY

iTrader: (14)

use rubbing alcohol and wipe down the windshield and wiper blades with a clean paper towel....oh and stop waxing your window.

Tarzan

The pivots are nylon, the axles are steel. After 10 years steel rusts and rust separates from the axles in the form of dust. This dust is highly abrasive and the axles wear out oval taperings in the pivots. Angle of the axles changes as does the angle of the blades. I had mine worn out so badly, that the arms started rubbing against the hood. Got a pair of new pivots and connecting rods a couple years ago and completely got rid of both jumping and rubbing problems.

djx82

iTrader: (1)

TARZAN where do u get new pivots and connecting rods???? is it easy to replace?? or is there any other way to adjust it?

Wiking

If bearings shot, only way to replace: go to Stealership. If only blades jumping, bend arm as already told.

bvtran

iTrader: (3)

yeah I have the same problems too, it turned out that the wiper isn't the source of problem but rather, it's your wiper arm that's causing the problem. I tried taking the screw off so I could take the arm off and jam a washer in there to give it a lift. But that thing wouldn't come off. So I used Wikings advice and it works. Just take a mini crow bar, gently bend it, test it for to make sure it doesn't jump when wiping. becareful not to over bent your wiper arm cuz they're made of alumunium, I think that's what they're made of.

Wiking

Arm is not problem. The problem is the rubber blade 'attack' angle on the glass surface.

Arm may be adjusted to change the angle maybe 10 degrees: no jumping after properly adjusted.

When u replace blades, u never get similar blades and they bend differently, and/or wear down, then they might need adjustment. Another is when the mentioned bearing is sHot.

hartley

What would be the best blades to get? would getting some of those dual blade attachments do any good?

Wiking

I have once had duals. I liked. Guess theyre problematic in winter?

Some placs sell only the rubber, cheap. Needs sm fingerwork... Crap ones are hard, u may feel those with finger: this blade assy is the only thing ever which I found is good with bosch. Theyre best. (Maybe sm other company does those, even packaging?)

Tarzan

It's a b!tch to replace! I got the pivots and rods from the dealer. The nuts, holding the pivots, rusted and seized to the bolts and I had to drill them out. Why? Because the stupid bolts have round heads!!! It was a major PAIN, because the space was quite limited by the hood. I used B&D cordless drill and had to drill at a slight angle. You only have to drill like 70-80% of what's in the nut and then you take the plyers to them and snap the nuts off. Took me 1 1/2 hour to complete the whole job.
The first problem is to remove the plastic cover w/o cracking it. Careful with the clips. Then you do the drilling and remove old pivots and rods. The old rods can be just pushed down and will fall. After you removed old pivots you pull out the old rods thru the holes in chassis.
I do not remember exactly how to put the new rods on - that was another major pain. IIRC, you put in the long rod that connects motor to the passenger pivot, than passenger pivot, than driver pivot and driver rod, but I might be mistaken after so many years, sorry.

Tarzan

No, the arms are steel. The brackets that go onto the tapered pivots are aluminum alloy.