(warning: long post ahead, with useful information, and review)

DISCLAIMER: This instruction is meant to solely be informative, and any actions that you(the reader) take are of your chosing, and the writer of this particular article is NOT responsible for any damages, injuries, or death that may result.

As the title said, after two days of working under the hot sun, I finally replaced both of my rear struts, and installed the Blehmco parallel link replacement kit.
(This is my first time doing it, but it was very straight forward and easy minus the @*$&ing rusted bolts)

Just went for an alignment right after I was done, only to find out that I can't get it done until I get myself a full set of tires, and I have to put in the tie rods myself (this is why you should never drive with blown struts, unaligned front, and taking the corners like crazy with all of the above. One of the tire was so bad, it was worn all the way down to the rubber behind the first layer of steel lining.)

Alright, enough ranting:

Here is what I learned:

1. Having two 1/2 drive deep hex 22mm sockets and matching ratchet helps tremendously in removing the bolt that holds the parallel links together. Also, having a full set of quality mechanic's tool and wrench set is a necessity. Other sizes of deep hex sockets needed includes: 17mm, and 19mm.

2. Do not be afraid to hammer the hell out of the bolts, but make sure that the sockets fits the bolts perfectly and properly, or it will round out.

3. It is not necessary to remove the bolt that holds the sway bar on, because like the control arm, the metal had rusted and fused together, and with the rubber on there, it is impossible to remove without breaking the bushings. Simply remove the bolts that holds the radius rod, then remove the two bolts that attaches the sway bar bracket to the strut housing, and you're good to go.

4. related to number 3, when removing the bolt that holds the radius rod, it is a good idea to first blast the bolt itself with an impact wrench so that it will turn in place, then hold the bolt in place with a wrench, and use the impact wrench on the nut side of the bolt.

5. related to number 4, to have access to the nut side of the bolt, remove the 4 bolts that is attached to the dust shield, that way, you can spin "open" side of the shield along with a bracket so that you can have access to the nut.

6. To remove the STUBBORN nut that is attached to the bolt that holds the parallel rods in place, heat it first until ALL of the plastic on the nut melts off, and when it is still hot, blast it with an impact wrench, if you are lucky, the bolt will not turn in place, and the nut will come off fairly easy, just becareful where that nut will drop after it is removed since it is scorching hot.

7. related to number 6, for the bolt that are near the gas filler neck, I recommend that you first remove the 5 bolts, (2 on either side, and one in the middle) that will allow the connecting beam to be lowered, that way, you can heat the nut all you want without causing an explosion.

8. If the parallel link rod bolts happens to turn in place, to get enough torque to remove it, either use a breaker bar to hold one end, while HAMMERING the other end out (this should only be done after the nut had been cooked, or the nut will strip.), or a 1/2 drive ratchet with appropriate socket (22mm). If you are doing this job by yourself like I did, use both of your hands to grab on one side, while pushing your right foot on the other side.

9. Not really necessary, but while you are at it, remove the plastic shielding that shields the filler neck, then use shop rag and clean all the dirt that had accumulated there over the years, this should help the snow and water to drain better, instead of soaking into the accumulated dirt and cause rust.

10. Hope you will never learn this the hardway, but the safest way to remove the strut mount from the strut housing is by first compressing the spring with the appropriate tool (I used a 25 dollars one, worked perfectly and flawlessly), remember to follow all instructions and safety precausion. Remember to aim the strut mount toward an area that is NOT occupied by people, pets, property, or yourself. Then, use a pair of extendable pliers, and grab on to the side of the deep socket while using your other hand to turn the ratchet to remove the strut mount. The reason for this is by doing this, you will be able to keep both of your hands, away from the strut mount, and away from the "firing path" if something happens to pop loose. EDIT: Before removing the strut assembly from the car, be sure to loosen the bolt that holds the strut mount, but DO NOT remove it. The weight of the strut assembly will keep it from moving too much, so you will not need to keep any part of your body on it. And please, do not reach to turn the bolts with your finger on the few final turns, even though you are oh so tempted to do so, and do not look at the part that you are working on directly, always keep the firing path clear.

11. The easiest way to remove the packing gland cap from the strut housing without making any special tool is by using an air hammer with a V shaped chisel attachemtn, and drive the shorter pointy end into the cap, sideway, and the old cap can be removed with very little effort. To tightened the newer cap on, use a variable oil filter wrench (cast iron), and adjust it so that it will wrap around the newer cap, and stay lock in place, and simply support the strut housing with both of your feet, while tightening the top, "just a little more than tight" is good, it does not need to be on extremely tight. You will know when you get there, simply because you can't turn it anymore without the wrench slipping.

Edit: before you even compress the springs, use a marker or a flathead screw driver and mark the location where the tip of the spring is sitting , on both the bottom spring seat, and top spring seat/plate. That way, when you need to put it back on, you can simply match the spring tip to the mark, and your alignment won't be off too terribly.

As for Blehmco's kit, it is very well built, and he has pride behind his work. It is definitely a mod for the hardcore, because after installation, I notice that over regular road (typical poor town northeastern road), there is a tremendous amount of road noise added to the car, but if you can learn to tune it out, then you will then in return have a very improved handling car that will keep the rear planted to the road. My front tire used to screech whenever I take a hard corner, but after the installation, there were barely any noise at all, and the car barely "dip"/roll at all. I would definitely buy from Matt (Blehmco) again, and will do so again in the future.