I have been looking for a write up on the axle replacement and do not see one, so thought I would ask about the procedure. Have previously removed a hub to have new bearing pressed in, so familiar with the disassembly. Is their anything special I need to know about removing the axle? Once hub is out of way, just slide axle out? Thought I rememberred someone's posting to be careful about a seal when sliding in new axle.

Thanks again for the help!!!

 

yes becareful of the seal...replace it if it's old. remember to drain the tranny fluid before you pull the axle...then after that you just pull on it hard and it'll come out.

 

It's really easy just disconnect your lower control arm from the knuckle and take off your axle nut, then you can just push your strut/knuckle assy out of the way and pull the axle out. It's a little eaisier with two people for this process (friend can hold the strut/knuckle assy out of the way). And always check the seal! you'll kick yourself if you don't and it leaks in a week or two!

 

I don't have to do that to get the axle off.

 

??????What do you do?

 

Two strut mount bolts. A bit easier. I hate the 3 lower control arm bolts. Actually I'm not sure I even have to do that. I was doing the bbk and konis in that picture.

 

Yeah I guess that'll work better. I was just thinking what I did when I swaped trannys, and had to take out axles

 

i can't do the strut thing since i have camber bolts and i don't feel like getting another alignment. i just took off the 3 nuts at the ball joint..then it's was smooth as butter from there.

 

The Autozone site listed through the stickies has a decent write-up.

I just changed out both sides two weeks ago and it went fairly well; I did have to use one huge crow-bar dropped down from the top, PB Blaster, a chisel and some nasty words when doing the pass. side as the support bearing and bracket had bonded to the cv shaft. If you have an automatic I'm pretty sure you need to pull out the pass. side to get out the drivers side, but one of these guys would know better than I.

 

nope you can do the drivers side by it's self without taking out the passenger side

 

Plus, if you do the driver's side first (easier to get a prybar inbetween to pop it out), you can do this trick to get the passenger side axle out:

 

I have a guide to replacing the axles but my cardomain site has lost all pictures... don't know what's wrong with it. so it's useless.

 

I was going to try this today. I have the drive shafts, but having problems locating the seals. First i can't find what trasnmission i have other than it being a 4 speed auto, autozone wants to know if it RL4F03V, RE4F04A, or RE4F04V all of which have differant seals. The manual i have in fornt of me states that the 90 came with a RE4F02A, which as you can see is not on there list of tranny's. As far as trying to id the tanny the only number i can find is A706197 which is on top of the upper oil pan. Any help would be great

 

you have any write up on just putting a boot over the C.V. joint , i plan on putting it on friday if you could get one by then for me :O

 

here is a write-up on doing the cv boots
http://www.4dsc.com/articles/drivetr...cv_boots.shtml

or go through auto-zone site (check the stickies to see how)

I'm told it can be done w/o taking the whole shaft out, or with those 'zip-up' boots but I'd never try it. If your boots already torn your better off doing the whole thing.

as for the seals, we have the exact same car and I didn't need to supply that info to get those parts. Tell the folks behind the counter you want the seal where the CV and trans meet, they might be looking at wheel/axle seals or who knows what else. I don't have the invoice handy, but if i find it tomorrow I'll drop you a line with the 2 numbers (right and left). Hope you're ready for a fun time with the support bearing bracket on the pass. side, mine was not exactly fun.