Alright guys, just bought another maxima to replace my last one (thanks for nothing, borg-warner, to hell with you and your tissue-paper automatics)

Anyway, new car is a '92 with a 3.0 (I believe VE30) and 5-speed, 131k miles. I paid a whopping $300 for it, and it runs and drives (though it needs some help)

The car will periodically go into "I hate my owner mode" and not go above 2400 RPM without doing what seems like cutting fuel - from this site http://www.4dsc.com/articles/drivetr.../ve_ecs2.shtml
I'm led to believe that this is a MAF problem.

However, I am curious about a couple of things. First, the car will be driving down the highway perfectly normally and then just at random cut fuel above 2400 RPM with no warning. Shutting off key and starting again seems to fix 90% of the time, rest of time just waiting 5 minutes fixes problem. The car has not yet lit up the check engine light for this malfunction - is this normal maf failing behaivor or should I be looking for a loose connection somewhere?

Also, the car makes engine noise, a clattering that seems to go away above about 2500 RPM and isn't noticeable at cruising speeds. Is it possible that the VTC's are bad enough that they are exhibiting chattering even when the motor is completely warmed up?

 

U wanted u clickety clackety VTC's. Maxima A/T is excellent. Good Luck to u new padlling pedal veHick-le...

5minutes wait is not typical to loose connection. Oxidized maybe. (Sudden drop to safemode fits to loose connection) . Typically cooling =contracting component, points to MAF resistor malfunction.

Run self diag, tst MAF voltage output as problem is on. Maybe Cam sensor?: http://www.cardomain.com/ride/748507/9

 

my car sometimes likes to shut itself off while im driving too , i just start it again while im still moving .. accellerator stops working , car is in gear , then rpms drop to 0

 

your problem is proboly coil packs

the main problem is proboly the maf since 2500rpms is the MAF limp mode

 

Exactly the same symptoms i had a year ago on my max... replaced maf and it was all fine again.

 

Nice diagnostic work, definitly the MAFS. Search the internet, you can get a reman'd unit for around $200, I don't remember the web site.

Yup, your VTC's bit the dust. You can ground them, by following the procedure in the stickies, or rebuild them, grounding them turns them on permanently, the engine should technically use a bit more gas and it will loose top end power, you can also live with the noise is you like and just tell your friends that its got a diesel under the hood. There is some doubt as to how long a rebuilt set will last, you can also buy them new but they are expensive. I did mine less than 10k miles ago, and she purrs now.

 

Or I can grab one off my parts car for $25 pm me if interested. Sounds like a maf forsure. Next time you go out to your car pop the hood and disconnect the maf. try to go above 2200-2500 rpm and it'll cut.

~Alex

 

Dash lights still on? Ign lock worn out, maybe


Coilpacks dont die all at once, but one after another: u will have 'some' stutter before all are gone... Seek one individual point which could kill engine instantly: its definitely not MAF (dead MAF: only drops to safe mode)

 

its a VE thing you wouldnt understand

most of us ve guys know the problem too well your driving along and sudenly you have no power nothing tach drops to 0 even though your still in gear somtimes it will kick back on its own somtimes you have to turn the ignition off and back on again

its like one coil pack shorts out which kills the whole ignition system and you have to reset it with the key

 

Wait, what are you selling for $25? A good vtc, maf or coil pack? I'm confused...

Also is your car a VE motor?

 

...that six coilpacks 'cannot' die simultaneously; a statement I did and is accurate.

 

I ment the MAF. Its the same for a VG and a VE, and I have 2 VG's and 3 mafs.

~Alex

 

im not arguing with you on that but im saying that only one has to "go bad" and when it does it take the whole system with it by posibly disrupting the coil driver in the ecu which no longer would triger any of them

it may not make alot of sence but it seems to be the problem almost every time

 

Talkin here is of injectors, not if ECU is bad. Workin ECU does not need user reset, boot or any other trick. (I am not saying that the die-out problem goes temporarily out with u trick...) If ign sw pwr to ECU loses contact, it most often gains it again via turning.

Try shorting ONE wire going from ECU to coilpack. U cannot stop the engine by that. You need also other problems, list may contain bad packs.

...btw. electronics is no news in swedish sailboats. One educational trip would work wonders for u.

 

Well....I had BOTH these issues when I first bought my car as well, I replaced the plugs with factory platimum, the air filter, and the fuel filter, and the "shut off" thing all but went away, but the 2400 RPM thing got worse....

I replace the MAF Sensor, and have not seen either problem since.

I also grounded the VTC's until I can rationalize spending that much money to fix the issue on a 13 year old car.