Just got my oil leaks fixed, now there's a BIG problem (Kinda Long)
09-13-2005, 05:33 PM
#1
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Location: Philadelphia, PA
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Just got my oil leaks fixed, now there's a BIG problem (Kinda Long)
Well I took my car into the Nissan stealership and got all the leaks fixed and new drive belts put on and an inspection to the tune of $500. That was done on Friday. The day I got it back and Saturday it ran like a brand new car. Then on Sunday I was driving the car home from Philly and some weird **** happened that I've never experienced before. The tach would jump up and down and the car would jerk, almost as if the tranny could select a ******* gear. So I kept going cuz I was on the turnpike at the time. Then, a little while down the road, it started to seem as if the tranny was engaging and disengaging repeatedly. So I pulled off to the side and shut the car off, let it sit, then tryed to get going again. During acceleration, however, the tranny started getting selective again and I kept having to let off the gas and reapply. So I keep going and put it on cruise control and its fine for a while until I'm 1/8 mile from the exit off 202 to my house. THen it starts bucking really hard and the car just shut off and the ACC lights came on. Now nowhere in this period of time was there a check engine light on and there still isnt. Well I got the car home and parked. So I try to get out and drive the car aroudn the block a lil bit, and I didn't get 2 feet before it shut off again. So me being as frustrated as I was just got out and said **** it. My dad decided to take it for a spin, and he was able to get it down the street to a gas station to fill it up (the car's gas light was on and he thought it coulda been bad gas). He said it was still buckin tho. Today, I took the car over to my work to get the oil changed because I noticed the oil level was way high. But still, same problem. I'm taking it to the stealership tomorrow to have them look at it and see if the caused any problems.
But does anyone have any ideas as to what the problem could be? is my tranny going bye bye?
But does anyone have any ideas as to what the problem could be? is my tranny going bye bye?
09-13-2005, 05:55 PM
#2
havign too much oil could have blown somethign out....usually a head gasket or something, but this problem doesnt sound like that.... my sis got lucky in her 88' thunderbird she had 2.5 gallons of oil and was fine....so maybe too much oil messed something up???
09-13-2005, 06:14 PM
#5
Sounds like coil packs actually. I had a problem with mine and it manifested like this:
car would stall out and die
car would buck, hesitate, like so: pedal down - vuh(lurch) vuh(lurch) vuh(lurch) vuh(lurch) vroom (go)
car would downshift improperly, while cruising, from 4th to 3rd, 3rd to 2nd, for no reason, sending the tach. flying.
changing all 6 coil packs (probably uneccesary, but I just wanted to) fixed every aspect of the problem.
so keep your coil packs in mind, mine tested fine and had no visible cracks... still.
tom
car would stall out and die
car would buck, hesitate, like so: pedal down - vuh(lurch) vuh(lurch) vuh(lurch) vuh(lurch) vroom (go)
car would downshift improperly, while cruising, from 4th to 3rd, 3rd to 2nd, for no reason, sending the tach. flying.
changing all 6 coil packs (probably uneccesary, but I just wanted to) fixed every aspect of the problem.
so keep your coil packs in mind, mine tested fine and had no visible cracks... still.
tom
09-13-2005, 06:39 PM
#7
It does sound like a coil pack problem,but since the dipership had the car recently i would look through the engine bay and under the engine area for loose/disconnected/broken wiring and harnesses.....
You never know what them idiots did....I never take my car to anyone....
You never know what them idiots did....I never take my car to anyone....
09-13-2005, 07:42 PM
#8
I doubt it is the tranny itself. When the tranny goes, it usually slips, but the engine will run just fine. Since your engine is dying (stalling out), it sounds more like you have some kind of computer/sensor/electrical problem.
If the engine was lurching, it is likely the coil packs. I had bad lurching/stalling on mine, but because I have a 5-speed, I could just push in the clutch and then let the car correct itself, without any load on the coil packs. Sometimes it would die completely and I would have to pop the clutch. Mostly mine conked out on acceleration, especially hard acceleration.
How high would your engine rev? If the car wouldn't allow itself past 2500 rpm, it was in limp mode, which is possibly the MAF sensor.
Just because you don't get a CEL, doesn't mean you can't have a code. Take the panel off on the passenger side below the radio (toward the front) and check the ECU manually for codes.
Did you try to drop in into one gear (like 2nd) and see if it would hold a gear, or did you just leave it in drive? Did you see if it would drive with the OD off? I don't know much about ATs, but I suppose it's possible that the tranny computer is screwy.
If the engine was lurching, it is likely the coil packs. I had bad lurching/stalling on mine, but because I have a 5-speed, I could just push in the clutch and then let the car correct itself, without any load on the coil packs. Sometimes it would die completely and I would have to pop the clutch. Mostly mine conked out on acceleration, especially hard acceleration.
How high would your engine rev? If the car wouldn't allow itself past 2500 rpm, it was in limp mode, which is possibly the MAF sensor.
Just because you don't get a CEL, doesn't mean you can't have a code. Take the panel off on the passenger side below the radio (toward the front) and check the ECU manually for codes.
Did you try to drop in into one gear (like 2nd) and see if it would hold a gear, or did you just leave it in drive? Did you see if it would drive with the OD off? I don't know much about ATs, but I suppose it's possible that the tranny computer is screwy.
09-14-2005, 12:17 AM
#9
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Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: EU Scandinavia
Posts: 4,323
Originally Posted by CamryKilla
...the tranny was ... car just shut off and the ACC lights ...
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/748507/14
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/748507/15
- Engine dying might be service related, loose wire. Go and watch what theyre doing. If youre not allowed, definitely wrong shop.
09-14-2005, 01:05 PM
#10
anyone ever have that problem where it sounds like your max is shooting a fireball out the muffler , with a really really loud poping noise..then you look at the tach and it's going down , gas does nothing , all the engine lights go on , wheel ends up locked (dunno how that happend) only thing that worked was my brakes .. i ended up ontop of a curb .. yea mines a manual tranny by the way , any ideas on the problem there? car works fine after being turned back on , have had the problem twice in the last month.
09-14-2005, 02:22 PM
#11
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Location: Philadelphia, PA
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Yes i tried to put the tranny in certain gears but the problem still occured. I can pull the codes with the diagnostic machine at work, so i will do that when i get the car back. Right now its at the dealership, but when i get it back ill see whats up. I'm thinking electrical as well, but I dont know too much about that stuff
Originally Posted by Cliff Clavin
I doubt it is the tranny itself. When the tranny goes, it usually slips, but the engine will run just fine. Since your engine is dying (stalling out), it sounds more like you have some kind of computer/sensor/electrical problem.
If the engine was lurching, it is likely the coil packs. I had bad lurching/stalling on mine, but because I have a 5-speed, I could just push in the clutch and then let the car correct itself, without any load on the coil packs. Sometimes it would die completely and I would have to pop the clutch. Mostly mine conked out on acceleration, especially hard acceleration.
How high would your engine rev? If the car wouldn't allow itself past 2500 rpm, it was in limp mode, which is possibly the MAF sensor.
Just because you don't get a CEL, doesn't mean you can't have a code. Take the panel off on the passenger side below the radio (toward the front) and check the ECU manually for codes.
Did you try to drop in into one gear (like 2nd) and see if it would hold a gear, or did you just leave it in drive? Did you see if it would drive with the OD off? I don't know much about ATs, but I suppose it's possible that the tranny computer is screwy.
If the engine was lurching, it is likely the coil packs. I had bad lurching/stalling on mine, but because I have a 5-speed, I could just push in the clutch and then let the car correct itself, without any load on the coil packs. Sometimes it would die completely and I would have to pop the clutch. Mostly mine conked out on acceleration, especially hard acceleration.
How high would your engine rev? If the car wouldn't allow itself past 2500 rpm, it was in limp mode, which is possibly the MAF sensor.
Just because you don't get a CEL, doesn't mean you can't have a code. Take the panel off on the passenger side below the radio (toward the front) and check the ECU manually for codes.
Did you try to drop in into one gear (like 2nd) and see if it would hold a gear, or did you just leave it in drive? Did you see if it would drive with the OD off? I don't know much about ATs, but I suppose it's possible that the tranny computer is screwy.
09-15-2005, 04:24 PM
#13
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Location: Philadelphia, PA
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well, uh the dealership said the problem was the ignition coils and spark plugs and quoted me a price of around $800 to fix everything. I really don't see how this could be the problem and I think they're full of ****. I'd much rather drive 35 mph for the rest of the week i have left before college and then scrap the car then pay that much. Any ideas?
09-15-2005, 04:33 PM
#15
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well im not worried so much about doing it as opposed to wondering if their assumption that the coils are bad is right or not. before the guy called me with the quote, he called me saying they weren't done yet and they think it might be the mafs, but they weren't sure and didnt want to "play darts". Ignition coils just isn't something that has even come up before...
09-15-2005, 08:40 PM
#18
Based on what you have said, I would think the dealership is probably right. I doubt you need new plugs. If you do, get the NGK coppers and they will cost you about $12 total instead of over $80 for the platinums.
You can buy a full set of 6 coil packs for about $350. Just call around the usual places, Schucks, NAPA, Autozone, etc. to find the best price. Dealer cost is almost double for those. They are uber simple to replace yourself -- just need a 10mm socket. Actually, the coil packs are easier to replace than the plugs, since you have to actually take off the coil packs to get to the plugs. hehe
You can buy a full set of 6 coil packs for about $350. Just call around the usual places, Schucks, NAPA, Autozone, etc. to find the best price. Dealer cost is almost double for those. They are uber simple to replace yourself -- just need a 10mm socket. Actually, the coil packs are easier to replace than the plugs, since you have to actually take off the coil packs to get to the plugs. hehe
09-15-2005, 09:10 PM
#19
Originally Posted by CamryKilla
well, uh the dealership said the problem was the ignition coils and spark plugs and quoted me a price of around $800 to fix everything. I really don't see how this could be the problem and I think they're full of ****. I'd much rather drive 35 mph for the rest of the week i have left before college and then scrap the car then pay that much. Any ideas?
The coil packs and plugs are soooooooo!!!!! easy to change on your car..
Even a inexperienced DIY'er can do this job easy.......You need 5 tools.... 3/8 drive rachet, 10" extension, 10mm socket, 5/8 plug socket, gap gauge...PM me and i will walk you though it if you want with pics....
$800 is refreakingdiculous for this job...
09-17-2005, 07:07 PM
#20
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thanks a lot there mygreenmax, I might be hitting u up if I can't find my way. No, I'm not letting them rape me, I'm buying the coils from autozone for like $300 for all 6. So thanks to all for ur help
09-18-2005, 06:05 AM
#21
Originally Posted by MyGreenMax94
Even a inexperienced DIY'er can do this job easy.......You need 5 tools.... 3/8 drive rachet, 10" extension, 10mm socket, 5/8 plug socket, gap gauge...PM me and i will walk you though it if you want with pics....
09-18-2005, 06:21 AM
#22
Originally Posted by seanneal
If you use NGK spark plugs, you don't even need a gap gauge. They are pre-gapped and packaged so the gap is perfect and ready for install.
I do not trust the manufacturer gaping them correctly. And even if they did gap them all correctly,all it takes if one person in the warehouse/parts store dropping the the box of plugs on the floor and messing up the gap on them....It only takes a second to check the gap on them...
09-19-2005, 02:58 PM
#24
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well I got the parts in today and replaced all the coils in under an hour. The back three plugs took a little while because the extender thingy was a ***** and a half to get off the old ones. I think the problem was mostly coming from the front DS coil considering it was cracked down the whole side. Now the car is running real nice, thanks to all who helped out
must feel good to be back on the road
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