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intermitent power problem...VE

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Old 10-07-2005, 09:20 AM
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The Bulgarian Guy
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intermitent power problem...VE

I am hoping that it's not the knock sensor but I assume that if it's bad, I'll be loosing power all the time right? Well, in my case sometimes I have it and sometimes I don't. The coils check out fine btw. Is it possible that it is the water temp sensor? I'll give it a try this weekend and see if it solves the problem. Am I missing anything?
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Old 10-07-2005, 10:30 AM
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tried that already Am I wrong in assuming that if the knock sensor is out, I'll be lacking power all the time?
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Old 10-07-2005, 10:53 AM
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Originally Posted by maximapitko
... I'll be lacking power ...
Every instant KS faints out, power lacking u'll be. Only testing with tester tells, bypass all power swells...
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Old 10-07-2005, 12:43 PM
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exactly what are your symptoms?

losing power when the engine gets warm (like after 30 minutes to an hour of driving) is usually the KS.

Car stumbling, stalling, bucking, especially on hard acceleration is often coil packs.

A constant loss of power can be anything from bad compression to clogged cat.

Since you said intermittent, it is pretty hard to say. Injectors? TPS? Cam sensor? ECU?

When my coolant temp sensor went out, the car freaked out. It was hard to start (acted like it was flooded) and the idle surged like a ****. The fans also kicked on when I first started the car. This could just be something I experienced, though.
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Old 10-07-2005, 01:02 PM
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well, I have all the problems you mention. I loose power 70% of the time after I warm up;when the car is cold it takes some time to start up; sometimes when I floor it it cuts out on me...What I've noticed though is that when i loose power I can clearlry hear my VTCs...hmm, I guess I'll take step by step by starting with the water temp sensor.
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Old 10-07-2005, 05:26 PM
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OK, your Max is a lemon with all of the most common VE problems...

The temp sensor is about the easiest thing to replace and only cost about $20. The KS is probably the hardest thing to do, even though the actual part is around $120 (get the subharness, too, if you do this job).

The cutting out can still be the coils. They will sometimes test OK and throw no codes, but still be faulty. That's because they only fail under heavy load, but still function normally with no load. That is how a Nissan Tech explained it to me. Also, make sure you have NGK spark plugs. That same guy told me Bosch can sometimes cause problems with the VE coil packs.

Hearing your VTCs tick is a whole different can of beans. Mine tick when the car is cold. I just hope to get about 5-6 years out of them.
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