weird sound...
#3
Originally Posted by Sgibb
...second gear i can hear like a clicking sound...
dinOil is warranted 20-30kmiles. Has u max been driven more?
A/T oil change http://www.cardomain.com/ride/748507/23
#8
I get a a whistling noise between 1500-2000 RPM at 40-45 mph once it goes over or below one of those numbers noise goes away. At idle from 600-1000 rpm I also get a high pitch noise and can feel it in the car anyone know what that is? Auto
#14
I don't know what you guys mean by "box", but my understanding is that changing your transmission fluid is only bad if it hasn't been changed on a regular basis. From what I hear, if you change transmission fluid that hasn't been changed for a long time (a couple years or so) then you could unclog something in the transmission by doing so. And supposedly you will end up having to get a new transmission. But, there is nothing wrong with keeping up with your scheduled maintenance and changing the fluid. Think about it this way, the fluid lubricates moving parts, much like your engine oil lubricates the parts in the engine, what do you think would happen to your engine if you never changed the oil? The answer is bad things, very bad things.
#15
michael is right if it hasnt been changed in a while and ur not sure if its ur tranny u best leave it alone for now untill u figure things out
what kind of clicking try and be a little more specfic if possible
the clicking could possible be broken exhaust manifold bolts look at the headers and feel around there should be six nuts on each manifold
try that and come back with results
clicking could be a bajilion things good luck
what kind of clicking try and be a little more specfic if possible
the clicking could possible be broken exhaust manifold bolts look at the headers and feel around there should be six nuts on each manifold
try that and come back with results
clicking could be a bajilion things good luck
#16
You know..mine makes a rattling noise at the 1500-2000 RPMs but its a broken screw from the exhaust that makes it do that perhaps thats whats wrong, I think my problem is what Harvs just mentioned on the manifold.
Also makes like a hovering noise or such of suction...kinda like I had a supercharger but its my Ipod FM trasmitter...sounds pretty cool IMO
Also makes like a hovering noise or such of suction...kinda like I had a supercharger but its my Ipod FM trasmitter...sounds pretty cool IMO
#17
Originally Posted by michaels'max
...you could unclog something ... bad things, very bad things.
How does new oil "unclog" something?
What is that "something"?
Why OLD oil does NOT do tHat?
How does oil circulate in a A/T?
What is the circulation difference with OLD OIL vs. new OIL?
In A/T, lubrication is the secondary function for OIL. What is the primary?
U guys would leave schmuck running instead of nice cool red oil?
Check out, theres nothin mysterious or magic: Its imperative to have oil change periodically in any device in any circumstances. According recommendations. Here rec is given by the right interest grp, eg. oil company who is responsible for its product. NOT nissan, whose stealer$hip responsibility is to produce maximum turnover - from u pocket.
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/748507/24
#18
So when do I know to change AT oil
Originally Posted by Wiking
How does new oil "unclog" something?
What is that "something"?
Why OLD oil does NOT do tHat?
How does oil circulate in a A/T?
What is the circulation difference with OLD OIL vs. new OIL?
In A/T, lubrication is the secondary function for OIL. What is the primary?
U guys would leave schmuck running instead of nice cool red oil?
Check out, theres nothin mysterious or magic: Its imperative to have oil change periodically in any device in any circumstances. According recommendations. Here rec is given by the right interest grp, eg. oil company who is responsible for its product. NOT nissan, whose stealer$hip responsibility is to produce maximum turnover - from u pocket.
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/748507/24
What is that "something"?
Why OLD oil does NOT do tHat?
How does oil circulate in a A/T?
What is the circulation difference with OLD OIL vs. new OIL?
In A/T, lubrication is the secondary function for OIL. What is the primary?
U guys would leave schmuck running instead of nice cool red oil?
Check out, theres nothin mysterious or magic: Its imperative to have oil change periodically in any device in any circumstances. According recommendations. Here rec is given by the right interest grp, eg. oil company who is responsible for its product. NOT nissan, whose stealer$hip responsibility is to produce maximum turnover - from u pocket.
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/748507/24
you're pretty smart man. I know I should read the stickies and or that cardomain guide but its been freezin my pc and maybe you or anyone can help me while we're on the subject.
I've been meaning to get my tranny flushed (which I assume is a tranny oil change) since I bought my VG last month but had no money to do it. How do I know when I need to since I dont know when it was last done. I have checked the tranny oil while car is running and its red but I dont know if its good red or bad red..lol newbie here so help would be appreciated
#19
Originally Posted by ColombianMax
....know if its good red or bad red...
The dino oil (=non synthetic) is warranted for 20-30k miles. At 80k (stealership serviced) my oil was red on stick, blk in the basin. Changed cheapest dino oil available Dexron III, impressive change! Now found Dexron IIe (=maxima req) with 2$ per quart, 5gallons. Half of it is used -with- steering fluid change.
My experience was that the writeup I found, was erroneus: too long/much pumped oil out, should be done with 10s idle at least in VG. Take one quart out, one in. ---> See .org lubr page for writeups. Too long idle results in insucked air, which caused slip (4days later!) as the foam bubbles lazily rose and blocked 2nd gear valves (?) - but no problem now after keeping car idling, 2nd ON, handbrake on, chassis smwhat tilted, 30minutes.
Red is blk? ...50k miles, from Citroen 1.8 A/T
PC:
What sucks is Microsoft AND Internet Explorer. Download free Mozilla Firefox.
IE stores 'all' cookies whatever u get from surfing. Change ie options settings, temp internet Files storage are to minimum 1Mb. These files 'demand service', u computer spends its time serving these. Delete all temporary files, easily there could be tens of thousands. MSIdiots: They are stored at least TWICE below 'documents and settings' & 'windows' subfolders...
Or format your HD, reinstall win-dowser and never touch IE. Buy more memory; after ˝GB you may take out the windows swap file and be free of its most repulsive disk fragmenting feature working havoc on u files...
Dont be afraid of viruses - win dowser is biggest!
#20
Originally Posted by Wiking
CarDomain sucks. Try peepin in early in the morning when u fellas sleep... Download and printout. Its somewhat detailed writeup, with txt & pics that FSM doesnt talk about. Correct u PC, goto friends PC...
The dino oil (=non synthetic) is warranted for 20-30k miles. At 80k (stealership serviced) my oil was red on stick, blk in the basin. Changed cheapest dino oil available Dexron III, impressive change! Now found Dexron IIe (=maxima req) with 2$ per quart, 5gallons. Half of it is used -with- steering fluid change.
My experience was that the writeup I found, was erroneus: too long/much pumped oil out, should be done with 10s idle at least in VG. Take one quart out, one in. ---> See .org lubr page for writeups. Too long idle results in insucked air, which caused slip (4days later!) as the foam bubbles lazily rose and blocked 2nd gear valves (?) - but no problem now after keeping car idling, 2nd ON, handbrake on, chassis smwhat tilted, 30minutes.
Red is blk? ...50k miles, from Citroen 1.8 A/T
PC:
What sucks is Microsoft AND Internet Explorer. Download free Mozilla Firefox.
IE stores 'all' cookies whatever u get from surfing. Change ie options settings, temp internet Files storage are to minimum 1Mb. These files 'demand service', u computer spends its time serving these. Delete all temporary files, easily there could be tens of thousands. MSIdiots: They are stored at least TWICE below 'documents and settings' & 'windows' subfolders...
Or format your HD, reinstall win-dowser and never touch IE. Buy more memory; after ˝GB you may take out the windows swap file and be free of its most repulsive disk fragmenting feature working havoc on u files...
Dont be afraid of viruses - win dowser is biggest!
The dino oil (=non synthetic) is warranted for 20-30k miles. At 80k (stealership serviced) my oil was red on stick, blk in the basin. Changed cheapest dino oil available Dexron III, impressive change! Now found Dexron IIe (=maxima req) with 2$ per quart, 5gallons. Half of it is used -with- steering fluid change.
My experience was that the writeup I found, was erroneus: too long/much pumped oil out, should be done with 10s idle at least in VG. Take one quart out, one in. ---> See .org lubr page for writeups. Too long idle results in insucked air, which caused slip (4days later!) as the foam bubbles lazily rose and blocked 2nd gear valves (?) - but no problem now after keeping car idling, 2nd ON, handbrake on, chassis smwhat tilted, 30minutes.
Red is blk? ...50k miles, from Citroen 1.8 A/T
PC:
What sucks is Microsoft AND Internet Explorer. Download free Mozilla Firefox.
IE stores 'all' cookies whatever u get from surfing. Change ie options settings, temp internet Files storage are to minimum 1Mb. These files 'demand service', u computer spends its time serving these. Delete all temporary files, easily there could be tens of thousands. MSIdiots: They are stored at least TWICE below 'documents and settings' & 'windows' subfolders...
Or format your HD, reinstall win-dowser and never touch IE. Buy more memory; after ˝GB you may take out the windows swap file and be free of its most repulsive disk fragmenting feature working havoc on u files...
Dont be afraid of viruses - win dowser is biggest!
I dont know if the previous owner got the tranny flushed but I feel like asking mommy for money to get it done. Yes I know it shows me step by step on that guide but I'm afraid I'll do something wrong and it'll cost me more to repair..so i rather leave it to the professionals or so thats what they call themselves. Anyone wanna help/teach me with hands on tranny oil change?
#21
Originally Posted by ColombianMax
...help/teach me with hands on tranny oil change?
Goto shop and watch it happen: After initial drain/fill, only one hose taken off. Drain one quart via idling, add one quart, repeat x5. Really simple.
I think the A/T fear factor has been pumped up, but surely it has some sources. I think the main problem is too long/much idle/oil causing air suck-in as reservoir level drops too low: 1. Air bubbles do not match with hydraulics, 2. Foam may really get soot flowing, be it OLd or new oil. (Note: old oil also may foam, cause the fearsome dirt to float, especially if oil level gets too low. Or if u use u car...)
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