I finished changing my radiator, coolant, and Coolant temp sensor this week. I was running the car for about a hour today and the fan never came on. The temp guage seems to stay at a little below half. Every now and then, it will shoot all the way to the top, something its done since I bought it and then come back to normal. Is there anyway to check that the fans are working correctly. I was thinking one the relays may be bad but Im unsure of how to check them. Any help is appreciated so please chime in!

 

You need to bleed the cooling system of air pockets..That is what is causing the jump in the temp gauge...When a pocket of air passes by the the temp sensor,it is much hotter then the coolant=the needle jumping up quickly....

Do you have a ve or vg??

 

Here are some past thread links on the bleeding procedure...

http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....ystem+bleeding

http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....ystem+bleeding

http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....ystem+bleeding

 

Same thing happened to me after a head gasket job. Thought the damn thing was going to blow.

Had air in the coolant system.......

 

I have a VG. I did bleed it but not the detailed way described. I will try that 2moro. Any thoughts about the fans?

 

hit your a/c and see if they come on. these cars keep cool easially. my fans rarely have to kick in, and when they do, it's for 5-8 seconds. it'll take a few bleeds. make sure you keep coolant in the overfill tank so you're not sucking in more air. there could be big pockets in there that will suck it dry.

 

1. Test: take EGRC temp sensor connector off: High idle, 1500rpm, both fans maximum, warm engine.
2. unplug fan connector(s), give direct +12V
3. sink ECU pin6 & pin19 down (with a 390ohm or whatever grounded resistor)

Air bleed: one hour drive 2000rpm or over, with some hose bleeding a little. Keep reservoir at max mark.

For Details See http://www.cardomain.com/ride/748507/1 see p.7& p.8

 

thank you once again Wiking, I cant count the number of tiumes u saved my butt.

 

Hmm. Thks. My memory fails. But checking from the schema, it seems easy to give direct +12V to dual press switch 4a (-or- to ECU pin 46). I would attach wire to batt positive, touch connector contact [schema 58] with stripped wire single thread (works like 5A fuse) and get ECU hoaxed to start propeller spinnin...

edit: btw, here the compressor clutch is also energized and AC compressor starts to produce cool. (Engine idling).

 

thanx, bleed everything fully and seems to be working great again. Thanx every1!

 

Hey I noticed that he mentioned that his temp is usually slightly below half..mine is always like 1 or 2 little lines above half, I have a new waterpump and thermostat is my car temp normal now that he brought that up?

 

My tgauge needle goes to halfway. At my modded kickdown drops to zer

What is normal? As long as heater pushes real hot, engine does not boil over, accept the needle pos - if it behaves similarly each day.

 

Thanks for that lil' confirmation..yea I guess I shouldn't worry Its always at the same point once the car is fully warmed up.

 

Mine has always done this and I have bled system...it is simply a bad guage..one bang on the dash and its back to normal..

 

Yeah..If you can smack the dash and then it's working fine then i would suspect the gauge...

 

hmm i have a similar problem except my temp guage drops down whenever I accelerate really fast so I am thinking it is the guage but I dunno