Replacing rotors for rear disk brakes. Once I get the caliper mount off, should that rotor just slide off or is there something else I'm missing? The repair websites say it should just come off, but I'm not seeing that happenin'

 

Worn rotors have edge which wont allow 'slide off' before caliper piston is pushed in. While pushin in, it has to be rotated simultaneously.

 

could also be rusted onto the hub try hitting it with a rubber mallet a few times

 

The piston is to the side right now, there's nothing in front of the rotor at all. I shouldn't have to mess with that until i put the new pads on....right?

Subs1000 you may be right the rotors are rusted bad, that's why when I got the brake squealin' I figured might as well replace the rotors too.

 

it's very common that the rotors freeze to the hubs.

If you still have the OEM rotors, they will have some small bolt holes in the face of them. they're like 6 or 8mm bolts.. stick a screw in each of those and slowly crank on them. they should pop the rotor loose from the hub.

spray some penetrating fluid around the wheel studs, those bolt holes, and center of the hub though and wait a few minutes (while you're looking for matching screws. ) that should help free it up and the thing should pop right off.
If that doesn't work, then get a sledge hammer and whack it on the edge of the rotor, straight toward the hub. don't beat it side-to-side, as that can dmaage the wheel bearings.. a couple hits with the sledge should knock it loose pretty quick.

 

U must get piston back in. Has to be rotated while pressing; handbrake adj screw behind/inside. Check what its like via my CDomain "Favorite Links"...
see http://www.cardomain.com/ride/748507/18

Add grease [NOTE: special brake grease] to get rails sliding & piston shielded against rust:

 

Okay, so how hard is it REALLY to turn that dang caliper back into the bore? I'm getting frustrated, and bloody knuckles to boot.

 

Turn and twist. Using the proper tool also helps. It's cheap and can be rented.

 

It can be bought too... I think it was only $6-$8

 

Nifty little cube thinga-ma-jigger ya got there! Where did you find it?

 

Well since he mentions he "bought" it. I'll assume at a store. Since it's a tool related to cars, I'll further assume an auto parts supply store.

 

Idiotzone.......

 

j00 guyz were right. I found that tool, and that made a world of difference!

Well, for one of them.

The other one seems to be stuck all the way out. Would pulling up the handbrake while they were off caused it to stick out? I mean, that sucker is twice as tough to budge as the other one. Or maybe the parking brake spring (I assume that's what that is) can be moved/adjusted or something to allow it freedom?

By the way, good call Matt on the screw thing to free the rotor. Matter of fact, the caliper screws (that allow the brake piston to pivot) fit perfectly. Go figure.

 

The issue with it being hard to turn back in is because the caliper is seizing up...Been there,done that...You will go through pads like crazy...

 

Sadly true, will fry also bearing. No way but open, recondition the caliper or get new.

 

no there's no way to get the caliper in for right now? Maybe bleed the line? I gotta 'skins game to drive to tomorrow night.

 

Try finding one at a local junkyard...lowest mileage possible...

 

Brakes are actually just unnecessary weight. Plug the rear brake until u get replacement - but then drive accordingly. Note that this is unlawful, and youll get in trouble if get into accident...

Open caliper, most often they can be reconditioned, rust scraped off. The piston & cylinder may be scraped with flat steel blade, no scratches in/out axle are allowed cause they will leak.

Try to get the seals and special brake grease from a parts shop today.

 

any parts store should have a rebuilt caliper sitting in stock for it.
heck they're popular enough that Dorman is making them brand new.

 

Big ups and thanks to EVERYONE that helped, all the advise. It all pretty much came into play. I found ONE shop that was able to get it delivered from another store 30 miles away. The new one came with EVERYTHING, even brake pads. $165, and $65 core return. Took forever to bleed the brakes (especially by myself) and the parking brake I'm still iffy on, took a whole lot more pulling to put it on the new caliper, but all is well!

I did note that the pads on that side were a lot lower than the other side. Surprised I still have a wheel bearing left.

 

I bet it came w/o the proper grease...

Now u mpg shuld be up.