Starting Problems
#1
Starting Problems
I have a 92 third gen, gxe. Sometimes when I try to crank the car I just hear a clicking sound from the front, which sounds like its coming from the starter. I keep trying and I will just go "click", "click", "click", and nothing, But eventually it cranks over and starts. Sometimes the car starts right up, but most of the time it just clicks and I have to try starting it for 5 minutes before it finally does. Does anyone have any idea what is causing this to happen? Ignition? Starter? Fuse? Lemme know fellas, and does anyone else have this problem? Thanks.
#3
Everytime I buy a starter this happends. Could it be because im getting rebuilt starters? I think im going to nissan to get a nissan starter, im tired of these cheap rebuilt ones that im getting.....any other suggestions?
#5
Originally Posted by Starchild2K2SE
Everytime I buy a starter this happends. Could it be because im getting rebuilt starters? I think im going to nissan to get a nissan starter, im tired of these cheap rebuilt ones that im getting.....any other suggestions?
i got a rebuilt from autozone with no problems - and i have the warranty for insurance...they're easy enough to put on so i couldn't really justify a "new" one
#7
Here's how starters have been designed before WWII - the Max is no different. Since I don't know how much you know, here're the main principles - ignore it if you already know this stuff:
When you turn the ignition key, you're actuating a solenoid/relay combo (an electrically powered, heavy-duty switch) that's attached to the top of the starter motor. When the solenoid works properly, the switch makes contact and sends full battery current to the starter motor, which will then engage with the flywheel and turn the engine at about 300 RPM, enough to start it.
The "switch" inside the solenoid casing is usually a heavy copper disc that the solenoid whams against two terminals, closing the starter motor circuit. Because the current is high, there is usually arcing when contact is made, and that can cause carbon deposits, pitting, etc. on the disc and switch contacts. It prevents current from getting to the motor.
The "click" you hear is the solenoid actuating, and then nothing happens because the disc and contacts are dirty from arcing, pitting, etc. preventing the motor from running.
The switch is in the shape of a disc so it can rotate over time and keep presenting clean surfaces to the contacts. This extends the life of the thing. If you keep clicking the solenoid it often will whack against the contacts enough times to finally close the motor circuit. However, this is usually a degenerating problem that only gets worse with time.......
GXEllent
When you turn the ignition key, you're actuating a solenoid/relay combo (an electrically powered, heavy-duty switch) that's attached to the top of the starter motor. When the solenoid works properly, the switch makes contact and sends full battery current to the starter motor, which will then engage with the flywheel and turn the engine at about 300 RPM, enough to start it.
The "switch" inside the solenoid casing is usually a heavy copper disc that the solenoid whams against two terminals, closing the starter motor circuit. Because the current is high, there is usually arcing when contact is made, and that can cause carbon deposits, pitting, etc. on the disc and switch contacts. It prevents current from getting to the motor.
The "click" you hear is the solenoid actuating, and then nothing happens because the disc and contacts are dirty from arcing, pitting, etc. preventing the motor from running.
The switch is in the shape of a disc so it can rotate over time and keep presenting clean surfaces to the contacts. This extends the life of the thing. If you keep clicking the solenoid it often will whack against the contacts enough times to finally close the motor circuit. However, this is usually a degenerating problem that only gets worse with time.......
GXEllent
#8
GXEllent - that was a great write up...mad props...
Starchild2K2SE i read this over again and it might not be ur starter...at least it might not be ur starter's fault. i used to do failure analysis for some ford products (yes i was really busy - i've heard all the jokes). i remember having one truck that ate up starters...and we were putting in brand new ones in too. in any case, turned out either the flexplate was not stamped to specs or it was damaged during assembly. the busted teeth and warped ring tore up the starters....it's a stretch....but it might be something u many wanna explore
Starchild2K2SE i read this over again and it might not be ur starter...at least it might not be ur starter's fault. i used to do failure analysis for some ford products (yes i was really busy - i've heard all the jokes). i remember having one truck that ate up starters...and we were putting in brand new ones in too. in any case, turned out either the flexplate was not stamped to specs or it was damaged during assembly. the busted teeth and warped ring tore up the starters....it's a stretch....but it might be something u many wanna explore
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