VQ35 Swap Ideas
#2
Originally Posted by Matt93SE
It would prolly be cheaper than the VE build I'm going to do.
#3
Guest
Posts: n/a
The only VQ we've seen in a 3rd gen was a VQ30, and it seemed pretty hack. It had the 4th gen gauges, and all kinds of stuff like that. You would need the tranny, but you get your choice of a 5 or 6 speed
You'd need a standalone or all the VQ35 computer stuff. Id vote standalone. sure you have to wire it up but for the ease of tuning, Id do it for sure. But one would have to do more research. It'd be an insane amout of work for sure. Might as well toss IRS w/rwd in the mix with a 350z 6 speed.
~Alex
You'd need a standalone or all the VQ35 computer stuff. Id vote standalone. sure you have to wire it up but for the ease of tuning, Id do it for sure. But one would have to do more research. It'd be an insane amout of work for sure. Might as well toss IRS w/rwd in the mix with a 350z 6 speed.
~Alex
#5
Originally Posted by Alex_V
MrGone you couldnt tell I was joking?your sarcasim radar is getting rusty old man
~Alex
~Alex
Originally Posted by todamax
Maybe this is for another thread, but how does one determine what the Maximum lift and duration one can get away with for these cars?
#6
Originally Posted by 505max94se
Would it even be possible to swap the ve for a vq35? What problems would one encounter when doing this swap. If it's possible, I might consider doing it myself. Please don't say "If you're asking, you don't have the ability to do this." I have the money and I'm confident in my abilities.
would probably be a good idea too since it's so much lighter than the VE.. would make for better handling due to the 150lb less on the nose.
something around 56% front weight instead of 60 like it is from the factory.
the hard part would be making the chassis fit... the mounts are in a completely different layout than the 3 gen and you'd have to rebuild the frame rails to accomodate the mounts..
not to mention the fact all of the gauges are digital on the VQ and all analog on the 3 gen. lots of things that would have to be changed to make them work.
#7
Matt, I don't mean to question your experience but, is there a chance the nut could have loosened simply because of punishment and age, without it being a torque issue? Or thats just highly unlikely? You do have 200k+ miles on it, and if I remember correctly, you did say you drove it hard all the time.
Anyway, sorry to hear this happened. Probably for the better.
Anyway, sorry to hear this happened. Probably for the better.
#9
Originally Posted by Matt93SE
Possible? sure.
would probably be a good idea too since it's so much lighter than the VE.. would make for better handling due to the 150lb less on the nose.
something around 56% front weight instead of 60 like it is from the factory.
the hard part would be making the chassis fit... the mounts are in a completely different layout than the 3 gen and you'd have to rebuild the frame rails to accomodate the mounts..
not to mention the fact all of the gauges are digital on the VQ and all analog on the 3 gen. lots of things that would have to be changed to make them work.
would probably be a good idea too since it's so much lighter than the VE.. would make for better handling due to the 150lb less on the nose.
something around 56% front weight instead of 60 like it is from the factory.
the hard part would be making the chassis fit... the mounts are in a completely different layout than the 3 gen and you'd have to rebuild the frame rails to accomodate the mounts..
not to mention the fact all of the gauges are digital on the VQ and all analog on the 3 gen. lots of things that would have to be changed to make them work.
I wouldn't be too worried about the motor mounts....I would mainly be concerned with the engine fitment (of course), electrical (guages), tranny fitment, and driveshafts.
#13
Originally Posted by internetautomar
how similar are the front subframes?
I did some more research on the vq35 swap and I think the biggest issue I would have is the ecu. The vq35 ecu uses drive by wire....
#14
the 4-5-6 gens actually have an entire front subframe on it that holds the engine and suspension. it mounts to the body at 4 points I think. I forget now, but look under the car and you'll see it. completely different design than our 100% unibody front end.
As for the rod bolts stretching, that could be the case as well, but the simple fact is that it came off. this engine has been apart before I bought it, and there were tool marks on the heads of the nuts- so I know the rods have come out of the engine before...
and that was at least 70,000 miles ago. I bought the car with 153,000 on the odometer and it's now got 223,000..
the bolt could have stretched and I haven't measured yet, but the simple fact of the matter is that it came loose while at least 10 of the other 11 bolts held and were still torqued when I did a quick "what about these" check with my ratchet.
As for the rod bolts stretching, that could be the case as well, but the simple fact is that it came off. this engine has been apart before I bought it, and there were tool marks on the heads of the nuts- so I know the rods have come out of the engine before...
and that was at least 70,000 miles ago. I bought the car with 153,000 on the odometer and it's now got 223,000..
the bolt could have stretched and I haven't measured yet, but the simple fact of the matter is that it came loose while at least 10 of the other 11 bolts held and were still torqued when I did a quick "what about these" check with my ratchet.
#16
Originally Posted by 505max94se
Maybe you should've said crossmember instead of subframe for mrgone's understanding....I know what you mean.
I did some more research on the vq35 swap and I think the biggest issue I would have is the ecu. The vq35 ecu uses drive by wire....
I did some more research on the vq35 swap and I think the biggest issue I would have is the ecu. The vq35 ecu uses drive by wire....
With the VQ35 I would strongly consider just using an aftermarket ECU, the stock one is not Mod friendly.
Mattchew if you want a thread split say the words
#20
Guest
Posts: n/a
easy, bolt on TB and done! Then VQ 30 or 35 sensors/ecus work. But better just to do stand alone, like megasquirt if your on a budget....would be much cheaper then a jwt chip that isnt even tuned for your own car. Of course brian my idea would be more unique and faster then a 350z
~Alex
~Alex
#23
Originally Posted by MrGone
but it's easier to install a standalone
I copied and pasted this from an "All Motor," 3.5 swap, sticky:
"How hard could the wiring for the 02-06 ECU really be?
Here's what JCLAW had to say about that.....
The thing that really f*cks everything up is drive by wire. Sure, you can simply swap in the main harness and not worry about anything else, but then oh no, the drive by wire harness is part of the body/electrical harness, a bunch of taped-together wires the size of your d*ck, pick and choose, find the good one, then you have to buy the steering column from a 02 Altima or Maxima, rip both apart, and try to fit the ignition equipment from the newer car in the older column, which leads to another problem.
Oops, the airbags are on the same harness, so won't work. Then oops, you're trying to fit the 02 Altima drive-by-wire gas pedal and it wont fit, it should be on the floor right where the steering column base is. No problem, just try to shape/weld some complex bracket there so the gas pedal is where it should be.
Then you have to drill 2 1-1.5" holes in your firewall, because the 02 Altima has more electrical hardware in the front than your 4th gen does, and those harnesses are essential because, remember, the drive by wire (10-12 wires I believe) is part of it, so you have to use it, that means you have to rip apart your entire interior, and hope to hell that the 02 Altima you got it from has a sunroof if you have one, if not, no more sunroof.
Then, you have to hope as hell the wires will plug into your electric door motors, and oops, they don't, so you have to buy the 02 Altima door motors for your electrical windows to work, that's in addition to the engine (1 grand), and another grand's worth of ECU, 3 complete wiring harnesses and an electronic gas pedal whose signal no one can crack. So you hope like sh*t that the electrical door motors from the Altima will fit in your 4th gen, but the f*ckers won't! So now you gotta weld complicated brackets into your doors (!!), thus adding weight to your car, just to make the f*cking window motors work!
Then you have to rewire all connectors for every single light in the car, and hope to hell the gauge cluster from the 02 Altima works in your dash... oops, it doesn't. No problem, right? Just cut the dash apart. Then you have to fit all the electrical hardware in the engine bay, in a platform that wasn't made for it.
Fans? Radiator? AC? Forget it. And the transmission? Nope, not the same sensor, plug is different, aw sh*t car won't start, you need the immobilizer. Big black box.
No problem, go back to a junkyard, if you can find one that'll sell it to you. Oops, sold. Get the immobilizer from another car, right? Sh*t, the ECU, ignition key, and immobilizer ALL MUST come from the same car, so if the immobilizer doesn't match the ECU and ignition key of the very same car, it won't start, ever, and since you don't have the same exact immobilizer, means you're quite completely f*cked now, doesn't it?"
NOW I REALLY AM JACKING MATT'S THREAD.... Maybe I should start a new thread....
Shawn....Mattchew?? Threadsplit?? What does this mean?
#24
Shawny... start hacking.
you SOBs can talk about your engine swaps all you want (FYI, the 4th gen ECU in a VQ35 is up and running. requires some custom machining of the crank sensor, but can and has been done).
I'll talk about plans for MY car in this thread.
you SOBs can talk about your engine swaps all you want (FYI, the 4th gen ECU in a VQ35 is up and running. requires some custom machining of the crank sensor, but can and has been done).
I'll talk about plans for MY car in this thread.
#27
Originally Posted by Matt93SE
Shawny... start hacking.
you SOBs can talk about your engine swaps all you want (FYI, the 4th gen ECU in a VQ35 is up and running. requires some custom machining of the crank sensor, but can and has been done).
I'll talk about plans for MY car in this thread.
you SOBs can talk about your engine swaps all you want (FYI, the 4th gen ECU in a VQ35 is up and running. requires some custom machining of the crank sensor, but can and has been done).
I'll talk about plans for MY car in this thread.
#28
Originally Posted by Matt93SE
Shawny... start hacking.
you SOBs can talk about your engine swaps all you want (FYI, the 4th gen ECU in a VQ35 is up and running. requires some custom machining of the crank sensor, but can and has been done).
I'll talk about plans for MY car in this thread.
you SOBs can talk about your engine swaps all you want (FYI, the 4th gen ECU in a VQ35 is up and running. requires some custom machining of the crank sensor, but can and has been done).
I'll talk about plans for MY car in this thread.
but splitting threads, not so much
lets get this short bus on the road
#30
Originally Posted by 505max94se
Standalone would still use drive by wire system....You'd have to use either MS(teh gay, No CPS, No COP...), use VE sensors on the VQ35 (if possible), have a custom ECU made (if possible), convert the car to use 4th gen ECU and sensors (PITA), or convert the car to use a vq35 ECU (MAJOR PITA)....
I copied and pasted this from an "All Motor," 3.5 swap, sticky:
"How hard could the wiring for the 02-06 ECU really be?
Here's what JCLAW had to say about that.....
The thing that really f*cks everything up is drive by wire. Sure, you can simply swap in the main harness and not worry about anything else, but then oh no, the drive by wire harness is part of the body/electrical harness, a bunch of taped-together wires the size of your d*ck, pick and choose, find the good one, then you have to buy the steering column from a 02 Altima or Maxima, rip both apart, and try to fit the ignition equipment from the newer car in the older column, which leads to another problem.
Oops, the airbags are on the same harness, so won't work. Then oops, you're trying to fit the 02 Altima drive-by-wire gas pedal and it wont fit, it should be on the floor right where the steering column base is. No problem, just try to shape/weld some complex bracket there so the gas pedal is where it should be.
Then you have to drill 2 1-1.5" holes in your firewall, because the 02 Altima has more electrical hardware in the front than your 4th gen does, and those harnesses are essential because, remember, the drive by wire (10-12 wires I believe) is part of it, so you have to use it, that means you have to rip apart your entire interior, and hope to hell that the 02 Altima you got it from has a sunroof if you have one, if not, no more sunroof.
Then, you have to hope as hell the wires will plug into your electric door motors, and oops, they don't, so you have to buy the 02 Altima door motors for your electrical windows to work, that's in addition to the engine (1 grand), and another grand's worth of ECU, 3 complete wiring harnesses and an electronic gas pedal whose signal no one can crack. So you hope like sh*t that the electrical door motors from the Altima will fit in your 4th gen, but the f*ckers won't! So now you gotta weld complicated brackets into your doors (!!), thus adding weight to your car, just to make the f*cking window motors work!
Then you have to rewire all connectors for every single light in the car, and hope to hell the gauge cluster from the 02 Altima works in your dash... oops, it doesn't. No problem, right? Just cut the dash apart. Then you have to fit all the electrical hardware in the engine bay, in a platform that wasn't made for it.
Fans? Radiator? AC? Forget it. And the transmission? Nope, not the same sensor, plug is different, aw sh*t car won't start, you need the immobilizer. Big black box.
No problem, go back to a junkyard, if you can find one that'll sell it to you. Oops, sold. Get the immobilizer from another car, right? Sh*t, the ECU, ignition key, and immobilizer ALL MUST come from the same car, so if the immobilizer doesn't match the ECU and ignition key of the very same car, it won't start, ever, and since you don't have the same exact immobilizer, means you're quite completely f*cked now, doesn't it?"
NOW I REALLY AM JACKING MATT'S THREAD.... Maybe I should start a new thread....
Shawn....Mattchew?? Threadsplit?? What does this mean?
I copied and pasted this from an "All Motor," 3.5 swap, sticky:
"How hard could the wiring for the 02-06 ECU really be?
Here's what JCLAW had to say about that.....
The thing that really f*cks everything up is drive by wire. Sure, you can simply swap in the main harness and not worry about anything else, but then oh no, the drive by wire harness is part of the body/electrical harness, a bunch of taped-together wires the size of your d*ck, pick and choose, find the good one, then you have to buy the steering column from a 02 Altima or Maxima, rip both apart, and try to fit the ignition equipment from the newer car in the older column, which leads to another problem.
Oops, the airbags are on the same harness, so won't work. Then oops, you're trying to fit the 02 Altima drive-by-wire gas pedal and it wont fit, it should be on the floor right where the steering column base is. No problem, just try to shape/weld some complex bracket there so the gas pedal is where it should be.
Then you have to drill 2 1-1.5" holes in your firewall, because the 02 Altima has more electrical hardware in the front than your 4th gen does, and those harnesses are essential because, remember, the drive by wire (10-12 wires I believe) is part of it, so you have to use it, that means you have to rip apart your entire interior, and hope to hell that the 02 Altima you got it from has a sunroof if you have one, if not, no more sunroof.
Then, you have to hope as hell the wires will plug into your electric door motors, and oops, they don't, so you have to buy the 02 Altima door motors for your electrical windows to work, that's in addition to the engine (1 grand), and another grand's worth of ECU, 3 complete wiring harnesses and an electronic gas pedal whose signal no one can crack. So you hope like sh*t that the electrical door motors from the Altima will fit in your 4th gen, but the f*ckers won't! So now you gotta weld complicated brackets into your doors (!!), thus adding weight to your car, just to make the f*cking window motors work!
Then you have to rewire all connectors for every single light in the car, and hope to hell the gauge cluster from the 02 Altima works in your dash... oops, it doesn't. No problem, right? Just cut the dash apart. Then you have to fit all the electrical hardware in the engine bay, in a platform that wasn't made for it.
Fans? Radiator? AC? Forget it. And the transmission? Nope, not the same sensor, plug is different, aw sh*t car won't start, you need the immobilizer. Big black box.
No problem, go back to a junkyard, if you can find one that'll sell it to you. Oops, sold. Get the immobilizer from another car, right? Sh*t, the ECU, ignition key, and immobilizer ALL MUST come from the same car, so if the immobilizer doesn't match the ECU and ignition key of the very same car, it won't start, ever, and since you don't have the same exact immobilizer, means you're quite completely f*cked now, doesn't it?"
NOW I REALLY AM JACKING MATT'S THREAD.... Maybe I should start a new thread....
Shawn....Mattchew?? Threadsplit?? What does this mean?
Threadsplit = splitting a thread, it goes OT, make a new thread with the OT posts
For the ECU stuff, wiring is easy for me. Getting the proper placement/angles/etc/making motor mounts for installing an engine, not so easy.
#31
Supporting Maxima.org Member
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Join Date: Aug 2004
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Posts: 5,437
Have fun. My mom has a 94 VG auto and the entire front of the car is designed very differently from my 95.
Right about the weight loss. Just changing the VQ30 for a VQ35 and removing AC (about 70 lbs weight loss) made the front of my car taller on stock springs.
Me and my 130 lbs bro picked the engine out of a pickup and dropped it a few feet away. Try that with a VG/VE.
Right about the weight loss. Just changing the VQ30 for a VQ35 and removing AC (about 70 lbs weight loss) made the front of my car taller on stock springs.
Me and my 130 lbs bro picked the engine out of a pickup and dropped it a few feet away. Try that with a VG/VE.
#32
Originally Posted by JClaw
Have fun. My mom has a 94 VG auto and the entire front of the car is designed very differently from my 95.
Right about the weight loss. Just changing the VQ30 for a VQ35 and removing AC (about 70 lbs weight loss) made the front of my car taller on stock springs.
Me and my 130 lbs bro picked the engine out of a pickup and dropped it a few feet away. Try that with a VG/VE.
Right about the weight loss. Just changing the VQ30 for a VQ35 and removing AC (about 70 lbs weight loss) made the front of my car taller on stock springs.
Me and my 130 lbs bro picked the engine out of a pickup and dropped it a few feet away. Try that with a VG/VE.
but we gently set it down
thats the price you pay for a closed deck block
#34
Supporting Maxima.org Member
iTrader: (17)
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Montreal, Qc, Canada
Posts: 5,437
Point I'm making is that the only reason 4th gens are lighter is pretty much strictly the engine. If 3rd gens came with the VQ stock they'd weight within 50 pounds of what 95s weight. A VQ35-powered 3rd gen would basically be the best N/A max setup you can get since in addition to the good weight distribution you guys have IRS. Power and handling, hand in hand.
But on the other hand, you could just buy a cheap 2800$ 95 and swap a 3.5 for 1200$ and for 4 grand you'd have a reliable NA car trapping north of 100 mph.
But on the other hand, you could just buy a cheap 2800$ 95 and swap a 3.5 for 1200$ and for 4 grand you'd have a reliable NA car trapping north of 100 mph.
#38
Originally Posted by JClaw
Point I'm making is that the only reason 4th gens are lighter is pretty much strictly the engine. If 3rd gens came with the VQ stock they'd weight within 50 pounds of what 95s weight. A VQ35-powered 3rd gen would basically be the best N/A max setup you can get since in addition to the good weight distribution you guys have IRS. Power and handling, hand in hand.
But on the other hand, you could just buy a cheap 2800$ 95 and swap a 3.5 for 1200$ and for 4 grand you'd have a reliable NA car trapping north of 100 mph.
But on the other hand, you could just buy a cheap 2800$ 95 and swap a 3.5 for 1200$ and for 4 grand you'd have a reliable NA car trapping north of 100 mph.