What if you get a code 55 and your car still doesn't start?
#1
What if you get a code 55 and your car still doesn't start?
Okay, so I'm working on this swap and I thought I was about done with it until I saw the gas tank and all the lines ripped out. I don't have enough slack on most of the hoses to replace them, but I did get the high pressure and return lines hooked up.
Go to start it, and no luck. It stumbles once or twice, but won't catch. I pulled a CHTS code and replaced that, and now I've got no codes, but can't get the engine to start. I know for a fact that this engine ran as few as 2 weeks ago in my other car.
Stuff I've checked/noticed:
No codes at this point.
Brand new battery.
Brand new spark plugs.
One of the wires in the transistor pack harness is cut and goes straight to ground.
Fuel lines are hooked up right. It sprays fuel into a bottle through the filter when the key is turned on.
I have an extra connector on the right side around the IACV. I've done a few swaps and I've never really had an extra one before. Any ideas? It's a grey connector with two contacts in it.
CPS is connected and set to a middle location. I don't think it can go in backwards or I would suspect that. I'll get some photos to show some of these things.
Same thing over and over again. I blip the key and it will fire once or twice but never catch completely. It almost seems to be backfiring, but there's no way to tell for sure.
Go to start it, and no luck. It stumbles once or twice, but won't catch. I pulled a CHTS code and replaced that, and now I've got no codes, but can't get the engine to start. I know for a fact that this engine ran as few as 2 weeks ago in my other car.
Stuff I've checked/noticed:
No codes at this point.
Brand new battery.
Brand new spark plugs.
One of the wires in the transistor pack harness is cut and goes straight to ground.
Fuel lines are hooked up right. It sprays fuel into a bottle through the filter when the key is turned on.
I have an extra connector on the right side around the IACV. I've done a few swaps and I've never really had an extra one before. Any ideas? It's a grey connector with two contacts in it.
CPS is connected and set to a middle location. I don't think it can go in backwards or I would suspect that. I'll get some photos to show some of these things.
Same thing over and over again. I blip the key and it will fire once or twice but never catch completely. It almost seems to be backfiring, but there's no way to tell for sure.
#3
some wires that are back there are the speed sensor harness....some tranny plugs... there was an extra connector on my VG that wasnt being used.. it had a cover over it though..dont know about the VE.....hope this helps... pics would help out alot also!
#4
the extra connnector is for egr egt for cali cars you dont need it
there is a ground right at the transistor pack that could be it
have you pulled a plug to see if its flooded/dry and to see if you have spark
have you sprayed flamable fluid in the intake while cranking to see if it fires then
try these and then let us know
there is a ground right at the transistor pack that could be it
have you pulled a plug to see if its flooded/dry and to see if you have spark
have you sprayed flamable fluid in the intake while cranking to see if it fires then
try these and then let us know
#5
That must have been it. My other car was a cali spec with the EGR temp probe. This one isn't.
I meant to say in my other post that yes, I'm getting PLENTY of fuel; the plugs are soaking wet after a while of cranking.
Flammable fluid only helps to wet the plugs further. I tried that earlier as well.
I meant to say in my other post that yes, I'm getting PLENTY of fuel; the plugs are soaking wet after a while of cranking.
Flammable fluid only helps to wet the plugs further. I tried that earlier as well.
#6
I swear this car is posessed.
I still can't get it to start and I've got a host of electrical gremlins. There were mice in the car at some point and I'm wondering if they chewed something important. As of now I've swapped ignition amplifier modules, CPS, several relays, fusible links, and no luck whatsoever.
Has anyone ever had an experience where the dash warning lights stay on after the key has been removed? This happens every once in a while and when I pull the battery cable it goes away. I disconnected the key switch temporarily in case it was causing the problem but nothing. The rest of the time there is a slight 1-2 second delay when turning the key to off. It's like this: Key in on position, key to acc then off. Wait 2 seconds and then the check engine/etc lights shut off along with the relays.
What. The. Hell.
I still can't get it to start and I've got a host of electrical gremlins. There were mice in the car at some point and I'm wondering if they chewed something important. As of now I've swapped ignition amplifier modules, CPS, several relays, fusible links, and no luck whatsoever.
Has anyone ever had an experience where the dash warning lights stay on after the key has been removed? This happens every once in a while and when I pull the battery cable it goes away. I disconnected the key switch temporarily in case it was causing the problem but nothing. The rest of the time there is a slight 1-2 second delay when turning the key to off. It's like this: Key in on position, key to acc then off. Wait 2 seconds and then the check engine/etc lights shut off along with the relays.
What. The. Hell.
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