car sputtering bad... sometimes stalls out.
12-28-2005, 09:27 AM
#1
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2004
Posts: 37
car sputtering bad... sometimes stalls out.
ok, car is a 1993 GXE, ~60,000 miles on it.
when accelerating it sputters pretty bad... even when i throw it in neutral and rev. the **** out of the motor, it still sputters pretty bad...
sometimes at idle it feels as though its missing and now more times then not, the car just dies... but it starts right back up but wont stay running unless you rev. it...
it i didnt know any better id say maybe there is water in the fuel system... also i do not know when the plugs have been changed...
so my first course of action was going to be throw some HEAT in the fuel system and change the plugs...
what else would you guys look at and/or suspect?
-Roo
when accelerating it sputters pretty bad... even when i throw it in neutral and rev. the **** out of the motor, it still sputters pretty bad...
sometimes at idle it feels as though its missing and now more times then not, the car just dies... but it starts right back up but wont stay running unless you rev. it...
it i didnt know any better id say maybe there is water in the fuel system... also i do not know when the plugs have been changed...
so my first course of action was going to be throw some HEAT in the fuel system and change the plugs...
what else would you guys look at and/or suspect?
-Roo
Only 60K on a 93? that is really low
01-02-2006, 08:02 AM
#4
Junior Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Posts: 29
After you change plugs and check cap/rotor you will probably be looking at the dreaded f u e l i n j e c t o r s. Make sure the other stuff (cheap to fix) is in order and if the signs are still there, buy an intake set (gaskets). You'll need it...
01-02-2006, 03:57 PM
#6
I'm thinking your fuel injectors are shot.
Look for a used rail at your local wreckers that works, or I have an entire rail of injectors for sale within resistance specs if you're really in a bind and need something cheap that works.
Look for a used rail at your local wreckers that works, or I have an entire rail of injectors for sale within resistance specs if you're really in a bind and need something cheap that works.
02-01-2006, 09:02 PM
#10
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Pretoria - South Africa
Posts: 1,205
FWIW ............ my local (South Africa) experience with a similar complaint:
General consensus here on the forum is to run NGK BKR5ES-11 or BKR6ES-11 plugs in the Nissan VG motors.
Locally - when you buy a NGK plug you actually get a Lectrolite manufactured POS ...................... You only know that because you eventually start reading all the fine print on the whole of the box and start analyzing strange happenings.
The result?
Basically what Roo described in his first post here even though I maintain my VG myself in an imo pretty good mechanical/electrical/overall condition..
When the plugs are new, no problem - they seem to work well and keep my self and well maintained VG purring like a kitten even with 250K km on the clock.
About 4000km later you start getting this slight "misfiring" when the car is idling - much more noticeable when my auto-box is engaged - normal revs with the auto in gear around 800-850rpm ............. when the misfiring start, you notice about 50rpm constant drop in idle speed and infrequent small "jerks" as the box looses torque for a fraction of a second.
Once you get to about 5000km, you can seriously feel the auto complaining with revs often dropping to around 400/lower - yet soon as you move off, no real indication of hassles ................ really puzzling that!
So in my case as an Electronic Engineer, I think I have managed to lately also figure why I would be needing a new distributor cap and rotor at least once a year ............................ because the friggin plugs, when misfiring, cause both the rotor and cap to start "tracking" because of excessive HT buildup, and eventually even with brand new set of plugs contribute to the same mysterious symptoms as described by Roo ...................... and I suspect eventually the coil/leads will also suffer the same fate - so far it seems to survive.
Upshot:
Note the S in the plug model number - it denotes a flat center electrode, unlike the non-S plugs that has a "V"shaped centre electrode that is in theory improving combustion reliability. I have found the plugs with a S in the number lasts a bit longer but is very hard to come by here - most twits behind the counter doesn't even know what its implication is while they insist that the non-S plugs are exactly the same - yeah right!.......................
So don't go assuming that "new" set of plugs exonerates them from blame - especially where badge-engineering is so easy to do nowadays.
Hope the soppy story is useful for at least a few other Maxima (only?) NGK users
General consensus here on the forum is to run NGK BKR5ES-11 or BKR6ES-11 plugs in the Nissan VG motors.
Locally - when you buy a NGK plug you actually get a Lectrolite manufactured POS ...................... You only know that because you eventually start reading all the fine print on the whole of the box and start analyzing strange happenings.
The result?
Basically what Roo described in his first post here even though I maintain my VG myself in an imo pretty good mechanical/electrical/overall condition..
When the plugs are new, no problem - they seem to work well and keep my self and well maintained VG purring like a kitten even with 250K km on the clock.
About 4000km later you start getting this slight "misfiring" when the car is idling - much more noticeable when my auto-box is engaged - normal revs with the auto in gear around 800-850rpm ............. when the misfiring start, you notice about 50rpm constant drop in idle speed and infrequent small "jerks" as the box looses torque for a fraction of a second.
Once you get to about 5000km, you can seriously feel the auto complaining with revs often dropping to around 400/lower - yet soon as you move off, no real indication of hassles ................ really puzzling that!
So in my case as an Electronic Engineer, I think I have managed to lately also figure why I would be needing a new distributor cap and rotor at least once a year ............................ because the friggin plugs, when misfiring, cause both the rotor and cap to start "tracking" because of excessive HT buildup, and eventually even with brand new set of plugs contribute to the same mysterious symptoms as described by Roo ...................... and I suspect eventually the coil/leads will also suffer the same fate - so far it seems to survive.
Upshot:
Note the S in the plug model number - it denotes a flat center electrode, unlike the non-S plugs that has a "V"shaped centre electrode that is in theory improving combustion reliability. I have found the plugs with a S in the number lasts a bit longer but is very hard to come by here - most twits behind the counter doesn't even know what its implication is while they insist that the non-S plugs are exactly the same - yeah right!.......................
So don't go assuming that "new" set of plugs exonerates them from blame - especially where badge-engineering is so easy to do nowadays.
Hope the soppy story is useful for at least a few other Maxima (only?) NGK users
02-03-2006, 08:19 AM
#12
Originally Posted by maxitech
I don't want to believe that a car with 60,000mi has bad injectors. As stated above, start with the basics...
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