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Speaker Box

Old Feb 6, 2006 | 07:23 PM
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Speaker Box

Any ideas how to keep my box from sliding around in my trunk? Anyone have pics of what they did?
Old Feb 6, 2006 | 07:53 PM
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buy some L brackets from home depot and use some bolts to the spare tire cover and screws into the box itself.
Old Feb 6, 2006 | 08:05 PM
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http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?actio...140&lpage=none

the only drawback with it is that if ur box isn't balanced (i.e. top heavy) it might just tumble instead of slide around
Old Feb 6, 2006 | 08:41 PM
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My box would tip over going up the crazy steep hills around here.
Old Feb 7, 2006 | 06:15 AM
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you guys have no imagination...

I used u-bolts and bracketed them to the rear behind the seat. There are two sets of "L" brackets and two u-bolts. I wasn't quite done when I took the pic. I had to retighten all of the bolts in the two "L" brackets first, then put them back in. It works easiest if you tighen up the u-bolts last.

One note of warning -- this will bend your metal bar slightly, especially if you take corners pretty hard. The bar doesn't really do anything important and I have seen no ill effects from it.

Another bonus is that the box cannot be removed unless you know precisely where they are or take out the back seat. The design could probably even be improved upon, but it cost me about $5 and works great, even in hard corners and you can't see anything at all and don't have to drill anything except the back of the box.

Old Feb 7, 2006 | 06:55 AM
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Originally Posted by Cliff Clavin
Another bonus is that the box cannot be removed unless you know precisely where they are or take out the back seat.
that is a pretty good setup. i just dont feel like taking out the back seat agian to do something like that. it would be a real b!tch otherwise. right now i got a book bag o'tools and the amps and leverage workin to hold my box in place.
Old Feb 7, 2006 | 07:07 AM
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have tried velcro its amazing how strong that stuff is.
Old Feb 7, 2006 | 12:24 PM
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Originally Posted by ozzombie13
that is a pretty good setup. i just dont feel like taking out the back seat agian to do something like that. it would be a real b!tch otherwise. right now i got a book bag o'tools and the amps and leverage workin to hold my box in place.
The first time you slam on your brakes real hard or take a really good corner, that crap is going to slide around. I would at least mount the amps somewhere.

It takes less than 10 minutes to get the back seat out and maybe another 10 minutes to get the carboard and crap out from the back.

When I race my car, I can clean everything out of it -- seats, sub, spare, stuff in the trunk -- in about 30-40 minutes, taking my time not to scratch stuff up.

Another nice thing about the u-bolts, is they allow my box to move up slightly, so I can still pull the spare out of the well if I get a flat. This would depend entirely on the size of your box, though.

Originally Posted by jewsonlot
have tried velcro its amazing how strong that stuff is.
Velcro is strong, but you have to secure it to something. The carpet doesn't hold on to the trunk floor very well, so you would have to velcro the carpet to the floor in a lot of spots, then velcro the sub enclosure to the carpet.
Old Feb 7, 2006 | 04:24 PM
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Originally Posted by Cliff Clavin
The first time you slam on your brakes real hard or take a really good corner, that crap is going to slide around. I would at least mount the amps somewhere.
all my stuff stays in place petty well. but i do have the amps bolted to the tire cover and the box dosent move too much. but i do need do do something a little better.
Old Feb 7, 2006 | 05:30 PM
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i used a bungee cord

hooked one end to the metal bar thingy behind the back seat, across the box, and hook to the other end of the bar. it was strong enough to keep that 110 pound box & sub in place.



Old Feb 7, 2006 | 06:17 PM
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well, you probably saw my wreck post......my speaker boxes shifted, but didnt move enough to damage anything. the only damage in my trunk is one of my RCA Cables GUTS got ripped out by a jack i had back there.other than that, no problems.

i just have a piece of plywood screwed to the false floor holding the boxes against the back of the rear seat. works well for me.
Old Feb 7, 2006 | 07:22 PM
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Originally Posted by AscendantMax
i used a bungee cord

hooked one end to the metal bar thingy behind the back seat, across the box, and hook to the other end of the bar. it was strong enough to keep that 110 pound box & sub in place.




That sub is fawking
Old Feb 7, 2006 | 07:29 PM
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Originally Posted by Cliff Clavin
That sub is fawking
ah, you know your audio

too bad it's gone . sold it awhile back. that brahma was a beast of a 12".
Old Feb 8, 2006 | 04:53 PM
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so today i went out and got all the same kinda stuff Cliff used. that part went well. only cost about $10. then i decided to put the amps on the top of the box. one of the screws went in between the face pannel and the top so now i have a nasty air leak. so now i gotta go in and take it all apart to fix my box. if its not one thing its another. but yea Cliff that mount works great.
Old Feb 8, 2006 | 04:58 PM
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predrilling would have prevented that crack
Old Feb 8, 2006 | 07:15 PM
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yeah im just gonan go with the bungee cord idea
Old Feb 8, 2006 | 07:41 PM
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From: Space is the place?
it does the job.

Old Feb 9, 2006 | 06:08 AM
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Originally Posted by Hectic
it does the job.

duuude, that is ghet tow.
Old Feb 9, 2006 | 07:56 AM
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hahaha what job?
Old Feb 9, 2006 | 03:57 PM
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Originally Posted by Hectic
it does the job.


Dude... Someone had their whole car burn up because of lose wires. Specifically the amp supply.
Old Feb 10, 2006 | 01:52 AM
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Originally Posted by tripleGmax
hahaha what job?
it keeps **** from sliding around which is what we're talking about.
Old Feb 10, 2006 | 02:15 AM
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Originally Posted by therealgoon9
Dude... Someone had their whole car burn up because of lose wires. Specifically the amp supply.
woah, i could have burned up my entire house when i took this picture then.


we don't salt our roads here so our fuel tanks don't rust out. maybe that could have been the cause. my wires are insulated, with O connectors on the ends, screwed down to the amp terminals. everything has always stayed in place and it's a snug fit. if it wasn't, i wouldn't have it rigged that way. and no way in hell do i think of it as a permanent solution.
Old Feb 10, 2006 | 06:06 AM
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Originally Posted by Hectic
woah, i could have burned up my entire house when i took this picture then.


we don't salt our roads here so our fuel tanks don't rust out. maybe that could have been the cause. my wires are insulated, with O connectors on the ends, screwed down to the amp terminals. everything has always stayed in place and it's a snug fit. if it wasn't, i wouldn't have it rigged that way. and no way in hell do i think of it as a permanent solution.
I know, I was just giving you crap about how it looks
Old Feb 10, 2006 | 06:09 AM
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Originally Posted by Hectic
it keeps **** from sliding around which is what we're talking about.
oh i thought you were talking about the job of it being a fire hazzard
Old Feb 10, 2006 | 09:27 AM
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Originally Posted by Hectic
we don't salt our roads here so our fuel tanks don't rust out. maybe that could have been the cause. my wires are insulated, with O connectors on the ends, screwed down to the amp terminals. everything has always stayed in place and it's a snug fit. if it wasn't, i wouldn't have it rigged that way. and no way in hell do i think of it as a permanent solution.
it's not the issue of the wires being insulated or not. if the current flow exceeds what the wire can handle, it will heat up rather quick.
Old Feb 11, 2006 | 01:43 AM
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Originally Posted by AscendantMax
it's not the issue of the wires being insulated or not. if the current flow exceeds what the wire can handle, it will heat up rather quick.
it's an 8 ohm load, amp's pushing about 200 watts, the 10 ga can handle it and actually doesn't even get slightly warm. he was saying because the wires are "loose" it's going to burn the car to the ground.
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