Speaker Box
02-06-2006, 08:05 PM
#3
http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?actio...140&lpage=none
the only drawback with it is that if ur box isn't balanced (i.e. top heavy) it might just tumble instead of slide around
the only drawback with it is that if ur box isn't balanced (i.e. top heavy) it might just tumble instead of slide around
02-07-2006, 06:15 AM
#5
you guys have no imagination...
I used u-bolts and bracketed them to the rear behind the seat. There are two sets of "L" brackets and two u-bolts. I wasn't quite done when I took the pic. I had to retighten all of the bolts in the two "L" brackets first, then put them back in. It works easiest if you tighen up the u-bolts last.
One note of warning -- this will bend your metal bar slightly, especially if you take corners pretty hard. The bar doesn't really do anything important and I have seen no ill effects from it.
Another bonus is that the box cannot be removed unless you know precisely where they are or take out the back seat. The design could probably even be improved upon, but it cost me about $5 and works great, even in hard corners and you can't see anything at all and don't have to drill anything except the back of the box.
I used u-bolts and bracketed them to the rear behind the seat. There are two sets of "L" brackets and two u-bolts. I wasn't quite done when I took the pic. I had to retighten all of the bolts in the two "L" brackets first, then put them back in. It works easiest if you tighen up the u-bolts last.
One note of warning -- this will bend your metal bar slightly, especially if you take corners pretty hard. The bar doesn't really do anything important and I have seen no ill effects from it.
Another bonus is that the box cannot be removed unless you know precisely where they are or take out the back seat. The design could probably even be improved upon, but it cost me about $5 and works great, even in hard corners and you can't see anything at all and don't have to drill anything except the back of the box.
02-07-2006, 06:55 AM
#6
Originally Posted by Cliff Clavin
Another bonus is that the box cannot be removed unless you know precisely where they are or take out the back seat.
02-07-2006, 12:24 PM
#8
Originally Posted by ozzombie13
that is a pretty good setup. i just dont feel like taking out the back seat agian to do something like that. it would be a real b!tch otherwise. right now i got a book bag o'tools and the amps and leverage workin to hold my box in place.
It takes less than 10 minutes to get the back seat out and maybe another 10 minutes to get the carboard and crap out from the back.
When I race my car, I can clean everything out of it -- seats, sub, spare, stuff in the trunk -- in about 30-40 minutes, taking my time not to scratch stuff up.
Another nice thing about the u-bolts, is they allow my box to move up slightly, so I can still pull the spare out of the well if I get a flat. This would depend entirely on the size of your box, though.
Originally Posted by jewsonlot
have tried velcro its amazing how strong that stuff is.
02-07-2006, 04:24 PM
#9
Originally Posted by Cliff Clavin
The first time you slam on your brakes real hard or take a really good corner, that crap is going to slide around. I would at least mount the amps somewhere.
02-07-2006, 05:30 PM
#10
i used a bungee cord 
hooked one end to the metal bar thingy behind the back seat, across the box, and hook to the other end of the bar. it was strong enough to keep that 110 pound box & sub in place.
hooked one end to the metal bar thingy behind the back seat, across the box, and hook to the other end of the bar. it was strong enough to keep that 110 pound box & sub in place.
02-07-2006, 06:17 PM
#11
well, you probably saw my wreck post......my speaker boxes shifted, but didnt move enough to damage anything. the only damage in my trunk is one of my RCA Cables GUTS got ripped out by a jack i had back there.other than that, no problems.
i just have a piece of plywood screwed to the false floor holding the boxes against the back of the rear seat. works well for me.
i just have a piece of plywood screwed to the false floor holding the boxes against the back of the rear seat. works well for me.
02-07-2006, 07:22 PM
#12
Originally Posted by AscendantMax
i used a bungee cord
hooked one end to the metal bar thingy behind the back seat, across the box, and hook to the other end of the bar. it was strong enough to keep that 110 pound box & sub in place.
hooked one end to the metal bar thingy behind the back seat, across the box, and hook to the other end of the bar. it was strong enough to keep that 110 pound box & sub in place.
That sub is fawking
. sold it awhile back. that brahma was a beast of a 12".
02-08-2006, 04:53 PM
#14
so today i went out and got all the same kinda stuff Cliff used. that part went well. only cost about $10. then i decided to put the amps on the top of the box. one of the screws went in between the face pannel and the top so now i have a nasty air leak. so now i gotta go in and take it all apart to fix my box. if its not one thing its another. but yea Cliff that mount works great.
02-10-2006, 02:15 AM
#22
Originally Posted by therealgoon9
Dude... Someone had their whole car burn up because of lose wires. Specifically the amp supply.
we don't salt our roads here so our fuel tanks don't rust out. maybe that could have been the cause. my wires are insulated, with O connectors on the ends, screwed down to the amp terminals. everything has always stayed in place and it's a snug fit. if it wasn't, i wouldn't have it rigged that way. and no way in hell do i think of it as a permanent solution.
02-10-2006, 06:06 AM
#23
Originally Posted by Hectic
woah, i could have burned up my entire house when i took this picture then.
we don't salt our roads here so our fuel tanks don't rust out. maybe that could have been the cause. my wires are insulated, with O connectors on the ends, screwed down to the amp terminals. everything has always stayed in place and it's a snug fit. if it wasn't, i wouldn't have it rigged that way. and no way in hell do i think of it as a permanent solution.
we don't salt our roads here so our fuel tanks don't rust out. maybe that could have been the cause. my wires are insulated, with O connectors on the ends, screwed down to the amp terminals. everything has always stayed in place and it's a snug fit. if it wasn't, i wouldn't have it rigged that way. and no way in hell do i think of it as a permanent solution.
02-10-2006, 09:27 AM
#25
Originally Posted by Hectic
we don't salt our roads here so our fuel tanks don't rust out. maybe that could have been the cause. my wires are insulated, with O connectors on the ends, screwed down to the amp terminals. everything has always stayed in place and it's a snug fit. if it wasn't, i wouldn't have it rigged that way. and no way in hell do i think of it as a permanent solution.
02-11-2006, 01:43 AM
#26
Originally Posted by AscendantMax
it's not the issue of the wires being insulated or not. if the current flow exceeds what the wire can handle, it will heat up rather quick.
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