Hey all fellow orgers. Havent been on here in a while. But i need some advice.. I havent been driving the max in a while due to the recent purchase of my new Dodge Ram 1500 4 door woot woot. anyways, i put a new battery in the max last week and had to replace a fusable link in the power harness to the battery and viola, she started right up like new. I drove it to work the next morning bout a 30 minute drive car ran fine. When i got back in the car at night to leave i started it up and only 5 cylinders are going.. So i did quick push on wires and check distributer and everything appears healthy... I brought it to buddy at midas he checked plugs and wires and everything seems to be ok... Still only 5... So i made an appointment at nissan to have my pants removed and bent over on thursday.. any suggestions before i cant walk for 2 days after the pounding nissan gives me? and whens the next meet!!!????

 

check the resistance on the cylinder that isn't firing.
it's probably just a bad injector.

 

hmm if its a bad injector like i thought it was too, how bad is nissan gonna wack me?

 

I had the same problem with my 94 se, bad injector causing me to lose a cylinder. With labor, it cost me close to $300- however, if you're pretty good mechanically and have the time (which I didn't), you can buy a new injector ($100 shipped from internetautomart) and save yourself a significant amount of cash.

 

$300 for injector replacement at the dealer? Dream on...

 

That actually sounds like a good price. Figure ~$100+ for just the injector, not to mention new o-rings and an the intake gaskets. Then add in their labor at easily $100 / hour+....

 

Whats the voltage at the injectors ?? i think my prob is that i have a injector that **** some time to time.. my plugs,wire,cap,rotor are brand new and i have a lost of power these day... and some time it roll on 5 cylinder.. and wher i restart the car is ok ...

 

injectors are measured in resistance
should be 10-14 ohms

 

your sure it's the injector? run a compression test, maybe you snaped a rod / broke valve? why not bring the car to a regular mechanic for an injector replacement , must be cheaper then nissan?

 

got any exhaust problems?

tightened mine up and it ran like it was supposed to.

i dont care what anyone says, i regret modding my maxima. they are very sensitive vehicles. i unhooked my air intake tube and the funcking car wouldnt start. plugged it back together and it started fine. FUNCKING SENSITIVE SHNIT!

my buddy can pop is intake tube off his 3.1 rs camaro and it runs fine; same thing with his honda civic.

most of the time, the licensed dealer mechanics know no more than the mechanics from the competitors. nissan told me you can never know what the door unlock code is if you never knew it...

we all know its on the security brain behind the glove box, though...

 

I don't know...I figure $150+ per injector(dealer) plus intake gasket kit $100+(dealer) plus a 3 hour charge at $100/hour(minimum)...

 

Well the problem is i dont have the time or place to get at the injectors, so i have to pull out the wallet to do this basically...This engine i just had dropped in last winter with new dist plugs wires belts clutch flywheel everything is pretty new probably except the injectors. This used to happen to me once in a while on the old motor specially when it was wet out but it was just kinda kick back in once the car warmed up, it ended up being a crack in the distr and a spark was jumping out if it.. its not the case this time though and i drove it all the way home from work and it never got goin again...... I figured bring it to nissan so that they can plug it in to the comp to see any error codes to see exactly what it is? would a bad injector throw a code?

 

A leaking or stuck injector will not show any to your ECM.
I just replaced all 6 of them. All bad, no code.
If you can do a brake job, you can do injectors. It is not that difficult just a little time consuming. I am sure Nissan dealer will ask you more than 500 for one injector replacement.
You can either DIY or buy parts and have it done at some local mechanic shop for much cheaper.

 

I don't think OBD-I (3rd Gen) diagnostics have a code for injector failure. The suggestions so far have been very good. Remember - combustion requires four things: fuel, air, fire, and compression.

Isolating the dead cylinder is relatively easy. Start the engine, pull the plug wire (the one at the plug level, not the cap) to each cylinder. If there is no change - you've found the dead cylinder.

Compression test is simple and allows you to inspect the condition of the spark plug in that cylinder. Check the plug for oil or fuel fouling. Oil fouling is indicator of major wear in your valve train or rings. Fuel fouling means that there is no spark occuring. Also, leaving the plug attached the plug wire and grounding the metal part of the plug to a good ground on the engine will cause the spark plug to throw fire - if it is intermittent or very weak, inspect the wire, the cap, or the rotor.

Check your compression when the engine is at normal temperature (meaning, get it nice and warm and drive it for a bit). Finding a burnt valve, failed ring, or blown head gasket will be evident with a compression of lower than 120psi (on VG). I don't have the specs on VE but I don't imagine it will be that much higher. If you find that the cylinder's compression is pretty low (120-130), you may want to run a complete compression test in the future. The tolerance for compression difference between adjacent cylinders is about 14psi. You do not want to see a large difference between two adjacent cylinders.

If compression is good (125-170psi) and the plug is dry and shows normal wear, you're probably looking at a clogged or malfunctioning injector. Replace this as soon as possible as no fuel in the combustion chamber for an extended period of time will lead to upper piston ring failure.

Replacing an injector involves removing the intake plenum. Be prepared to spend a day of work on your car. Use a sheet of paper and lots of masking tape (hoses and wires - use a Sharpie to help you map things. I use "1" and "1", "2" and "2", etc. to let me know what should be reconnected where). Leave the bolts in the plenum when you remove it so that you know which one goes where.

Taking the plenum off will reveal the injector rail assembly. From there, follow the guidelines in any Chiltons or FSM. Make sure you purchase the same type of injector. Maxima VGs have either blue or black dot injectors. The dot is located on the tan/beige connector.

You'll need to purchase a new intake gasket or plenty of high temperature gasket maker (which is what I ended up doing). Take care removing the old gasket (stuff rags into the intake ports to prevent a large amount of debris from entering the combustion chambers. Lightly sand the area of the old gasket to remove all traces (down to the aluminum) - this will ensure a good seal.

 

After doing it many times, my current record is 1.5 hours for replacing all 6 injectors.

 

and we know why

 

I should've known NOT to go cheap on injectors. But again, these little devils are too expensive in parts only! Thanks for all the help thought.

 

Spelling error, i mean "though".

 

My buddy at midas said he pulled all the plug out and they were all firing and that the motor never changed when he pulled each plug out.....

 

I have had two fuel injectors fail at different times. Both times I got error code 51 from the computer I believe. She would run, but idle rough, like on 5 cylinders. Ofcourse both injectors were on the cylinders in the back, under the intake plenum. Since they were rather expensive (~ $110 from NAPA), I chose to only replace the failed injector. If I were to do it again, I would have replaced all of them. The hardest part of this job it getting the fuel injector out of the fuel rail without mangling anything. The only way I could get them out was using a small jewelers screwdriver and pry *gently* between the injector and the fuel rail. And yes the fuel pressure was released prior to removal. A quick check with an ohmeter and you will know. Good Luck.

 

you got lucky then.both my grey maxs had injector isssues and neither one had a CEL set

 

Guys thanx alot for the feedback, its been very helpful to me.! ORG RULES!! hehe but anyway, update: Well i brought it to nissan and the called me back and told me that injector 6 was messed up and that i should do all this other crap and change all 6 so anyway all i heard was 1500$ in the conversation. I asked what the price would be to do just the one and 850 was the answer i got. So i called my buddy back at midas he told me $350 plus tax to replace just the one. Now my friend at work is hookin me up and doin it for 100$, i just gotta get a injector and i beleive the intake manifold gasket right? anything else i should get for him to do while hes in there? other than all 6 injectors??

 

I can't really think of anything else except may be for the fuel rail hoses that usually crack with age and you have this nasty gasoline smell early morning...Also, clean your injector harnesses as good as you can....

 

BTW - do youself a favor and watch your buddy do it. After your finished watching, go "WOW" - that was easier than I thought. Replacing all 6 injectors is just telling you to save from paying labor up to 6 individual times. If your other 5 injectors are working fine - leave them alone (my opinion). When you find out how easy it is to get to the injector assembly and remove the injector, you can save yourself a bundle by purchasing one more and then doing it yourself. Seriously.

You can either purchase an intake gasket or use high temp (the red stuff) gasket maker (which is what I've done to two different VGs).

If you don't mind a used (but good condition) fuel injector, I have fourteen spare injectors that were working great up until the engine they were feeding decided to give up the ghost. I have injectors from a pre-93 VG and injectors for a 93/94 VG (the nozzle and connector design changed).

Send me a PM if you would like to get one.

 

if you are going to pay someone to do the injectors and have no plans on ever trying to do it yourself, then do all 6 and ONLY do BRAND NEW injectors, yes it's a lot of money but so is paying labor multiple times.

if you are going to do them yourself in the future then by all means do them 1 ata time. you can even risk used injectors, but don't risk rebuilts, the likliehood of them going bad is roughly 50%. which is higher than used ones.

I sell brand new injectors

 

so can i have one?

 

you can buy one
http://internetautomart.com/maxima/3rdgen/FI.html

 

I support the concept of at least replacing the rears with new ones. I just did work on the VTC's and sent out the injectors to be cleaned and pressed. I rebuilt everything and the #1 injector (of course under the plenum) started drooling, making it hard to start. So here I am two weeks later pulling the plenum and ruining my new gasket so I can put in the other two injectors new ( like I wanted to in the first place before I decided to cheap out and pay $45 each to have them cleaned). I don't know how the '91s set up but if any are under something, replace, at least those , with new ones.

 

ok another quick question im pricing injectors. which one do i need blue dot or black dot??? i have 1991 nissan maxima SE 5spd VG motor

 

if you buy the new bosch ones it doesn't matter
http://internetautomart.com/maxima/3rdgen/FI.html
http://internetautomart.com/maxima/bosch/boschinj.html

 

so what if i get a cheaper one here in town at advanced auto parts and they ask me blue or black which do i get??

 

look at the paint color on your injector connector hardness.
There is a painted dot on it. You can see it after disconnecting.

 

if they are asking you then they're probably a rebuilt injector which you want to avoid.
BOSCH doesn't matter for the color dot, and they are the only ones worth buying PERIOD.
unless of course you prefer to do labor 2-3 times

 

I just had another injector pop on me today. The good news is that the local AutoZone stocks the injector, so I have it already. And the really good news is that it is the #2 cylinder, in the front not under the intake plenum!! Shouldn't take too long to replace...

 

you getting a bosch?
or a rebuilt AZ piece?

 

Hi, I'm going to replace all 6 injecters on my 93 maxima, after paying for replacing of 2 of them over the years, I now I want to replace all 6 myself, My question is how do you release the gas pressure off of the injecters? I have heard you guys talking about it, but I need to know how to do it, as I'm currently running on 5 injecters, thanks

 

pull the fuel pump fuse and start the car, let it run til it dies, try again, if it doesn't start then you have purged all fuel pressure from the system.

 

The injector has been pulled out and its black not blue. SO the blue one that i have purchased is not going to work. I had to order the black injector from advanced auto 3 times and they keep sending the blue one, wtf!!?? So finally we had them call the warehouse and actually take the injector out of the box to find me a black one... it should come in today. I dont understand how bosch can have one application for both when they are 2 different size injectors. the blue one is bigger than the black one, how would that work?>??

 

Long story but the short answer is I ended up with a rebuilt AZ injector. I ordered using the (BA) Beck-Arnley part number. The new GP-Sorensen injector 8001194N they had in stock is not the correct one for the VE. I went to three different AZ stores (since they stock the GP injector) and all had the wrong injector (I think it was the Yellow dot for the SOHC). It was a little taller and wider than the VE injector, and would not sit down into the fuel rail. Now I have a receipt for an injector I bought last year from Advance with the same GP-Sorensen part number, and the injector was the correct one, so go figure! I think someone over at GP-Sorensen is having a few pops before putting the parts in the boxes.

 

Rebuilt injector at least it's an easy to swap front one.
I went through 3 rebuilts on my old shiny grey maxima