I noticed yesterday that thee is exessive play in the shift fork...There should not be any play from my understanding. It's kind of hard to explain, but here it goes...

When pushing the clutch pedal and angaging the slave cylinder there seems to be no contact between the pressure plate and throwout bearing until the slave cylinder has pushed its rod about 1/2 to 2/3 the way out. Then it will disengage the clutch like it should. My concern is there is not enough clearance between these parts and there shouldn't be any play in the first place. However if I drop the tranny AGAIN I'm not sure I'll be able to see the issue since this deals with the tranny mating up to the engine. Are there some clips I didn't see that are holding the pressure plate fingers back (I got the clutch kit new)? I gotta figure this one out and get my baby back on the road...It's been almost a month now!

 

You may need to adjust the clutch pedal.....

 

The clutch pedal is fine...The shift fork shouldn't have any freeplay, right? There is something wrong with how things are aligned or spaced or something. The last parts I needed to get the car on the road came today, so as soon as I'm done at 4:00 I'm going to go install those parts and address this issue. Any other suggestions you guys can think of in the mean time would be helpful, though.

 

Hey sorry I can't post a new thread yet. I am having a problem pulling my vg out the top. The tranny (5spd.) does not want to disengage fronm the engine (yes I have all the bolts out) it moves about and inch and then stops.Any Ideas????

Thanks
Daniel

 

oops 1990 maxima SE 5spd. VG30E

 

The VG motor isn't designed to come out of the top. Both engine and tranny, together or separate, come out the bottom. And what exactly are you doing?

 

I didn't know that

 

Did you install the spacer between bell housing and transmission. Nissan doesn't manufacture it anymore so it has to be sourced used. Anyways, I bet the master cylinder pushrod needs adjusting. Even though your description makes it sound like its down the line, this will need an adjustment after driving to find proper wheel smoking calibration

 

I don't remember his name but on this forumn I was told that you want to take the motor out the top. I thought it would be easier out the bottom but some people said it is easier out the top. Now I am really confused. I guess I will try taking the engine/tranny out the top and see of that works. the motor is blown so I am taking it out and then will probably do a swap. But I might rebuild the one I take out. Thanks for all of the help

Daniel

 

I have never removed a VG, VE, VG with tranny, or VE with tranny out the bottom. I have removed all 4 scenarios out the top. I personally think it's easier and have had no issues. My recent VG removal only required that I remove the power steering pump and A/C compressor (didn't want to disconnect those!). I also removed crank pulley/balancer to ensure it's not damaged. Otherwise, no brainer! However, I would recommend removing tranny only out the bottom.

 

When I dropped my engine/tranny, it went out the bottom. You have to get the car about 4 feet off the ground, but I was able to remove the engine/tranny/driveshafts all as one unit (obviously I had to pull the driveshafts from the knuckles..). The engine was still connected to the crossmember/skid, so I just lowered it all down on a creeper and rolled it out to work on.

 

How long did it take you to remove the entire under belly of the car? I have to swap a transmission in my maxima...this will be my first big project. It could just be the seal/gasket that needs to be replaced. Trans. was running fine before all of the fluid ran out after 3 hours of driving.