Being a newbie to the group and a long time fan of Nissan cars (more of Datsun series), I wanted to ask for where to find information before making a purchase.

I am interested in a 3rd generation maxima with 5 spd. I prefer the car is bare with as few options as possible but I doubt such exists.

Can anyone help me find more information about the common problems with this car? What to look for in a used car?

I know this is the best looking generation but is it the best series out there for a used car?

I would love to wait six more months to buy the 2002 Maxima but I cannot afford it.

Thanks in advance, Don

 

Buy a 92-94 SE with the VE engine. 190hp
Common problems = window regulators, power antenna, VTC failure. The VE does not have a timing belt, it has a timing chain. The chain does not require maintenance. Other than these problems, I will say that it is difficult to find a low mileage 3rd Gen Max (ask Matt93GXE). You can put a lot of miles on these cars wihtout worry though. I have 141,000 on mine and some people on here have busted 200,000 miles. However, you can probably buy a good one for $5-6000 if you look hard enough. Some of them on www.autotrader.com and www.autobytel.com even go for as low as $1500. Good luck.

 

Luckily, the only problems I've had with my 92 SE 5spd were 3 of the 4 window regulators (all but driver window...strange) and my power antenna is stuck. I recommend this car because you can find them for a reasonable price and it won't cost much to make them pretty fast.

 

I found one from a colleague at work for $4k. I need to check this car out. Is this a good deal? 150k miles 1994 SE in good condition.

 

wow thats high mileage...at least its highway miles...i would definitely take it for 4k but see if you can get him to drop the price a little anyway....the car should be fine ...at least you wont have to worry about te vtc problem...

 

That sounds like a good price for a 94 although its got alot of miles. My only advice is to make sure that you give it a lengthy test drive. The 94 SE 5spd should be pretty fast with no mods, make sure its peppy when you drive it. I know you don't have anything to compare it with, but sluggish performance could mean lost compression and indicate that your max has been ragged. I have the VE engine with the 5 spd and it has 134K miles. Even with all those miles, I beat the crap out of my friends 99 3.0 CL. He just got rid of it and got an 01 CL-S which beats the crap out of me now, but not as bad as I expected. Also, find out when the clutch was replaced, a new one from Nissan is approx 180.00 and a high performance will run 350.00 plus installation. I don't know what else I can tell you, other than I love mine.

 

I was pretty lucky in finding mine. It really just takes time. It's a 1990se with only 93k on it. IT was about 3800.

 

I tell you, even with the VTC probs and all, I love my car. Its a blast to drive it around and its built really solid. Since I beat on mine like crazy I have had a lot of repairs on my car. I rebuilt my tranny after I had an oil leak and the tranny got run dry ($1500, just make sure you got fluid in that expensive trans.) and I put a new engine in, and here's why. I had 152K on my car and I was racing this ford probe and I hit 150 MPH which on my car equates to 6300 rpm's. Being that it was an old engine I spun a rod bearing. Its totally rebuildable, but I won't put it in until I blow the engine in my car right now. It cost me $800 for the engine, and the moral is don't do 150 in a car with 150K miles on it. Other than that, I have done a couple window regulators and have done the VTC's a couple times, an axle, tires(notice how I care for my tires) brakes/rotors, wheel bearings, BOSE and other normal stuff that goes bad on an old max. The only thing I dislike about my car is what it would be worth if I tried to sell it. To me its worth $7500 but on the market its prob only worth $5500.........

 

I checked Kelly Blue Book and this is the retail value of that car (considering if it is in pristine condition.
http://www.kbb.com/kb/ki.dll/kw.kc.ur?kbb;574871&;r&40;Nissan;1994%20Maxima&8;NI;D4&

The trade-in value is the following.
http://www.kbb.com/kb/ki.dll/kw.kc.ur?kbb;342883&31550;t&39;Nissan;1994%20Maxima&8;NI;D4&

Just thought that I would help a brother out. Hope this helps.

 

hey ill sell you my 92 max se with 130k mile son it...lol..interested?

 

How much are you asking for?

I checked and the 94 trade in value is $3800 which is not bad compared to what he is asking.

Does anyone here understands the difference between trade in value and loan value and blue book value?

Thanks again,

 

i was ask ing $4500 but i decided to kepe it...well on www.kbb.com trade in value is the value a dealer will giv eyou for the car..which is shi*, if you sell a car privately then the value is around 4 to 5 grand.

 

Trade in is what you can expect the dealer to give you ONLY if it is in pristine condition. It has to be perfect. Anything visible will drop that price and anything mechanical will kill the price. Retail is the price that you should expect to get if you sell it privately. That is why retail is always higher than trade-in. The dealer gives you a crappy trade-in amount and then jacks the price up and sells it. Generally after the increase in price, it is higher than the retail value. That is why many people will sell and buy from private owners.

 

I would like to check the car for some of the known issues. Is there a way to do this. With the regulators, I can just roll the windows up and down a few times and see if it works. Is there a better way than this?

As for the engine valve, I can listen for the ticks. Does anyone here has a sound bite of what it is?

Thanks

 

I just bought a 1990 Max SE Auto with 213,000 miles that I'll be picking up Friday for $2600. It is in pristine condition. Doesn't look like anybody ever sat in the car and it is from the original owner. I currently drive a 1997 Max SE 5sp with 135,000 miles. Car's for my girlriend to drive.

$4000 for a 94 SE seems like a good deal. It has the driver side airbag. It's probably high highway miles which keeps the car looking good inside (not as much wear). The 1989-1991 all had the same engine, the VG30E. It was 160hp with SOHC. It's the same engine/block the Infiniti J30 and 300ZX are based off of, except with DOHC and variable cam timing. The 1992-1994 GXE also had that engine. The 1992-1994 SE had the VE engine, which does have the VTC problem.

If you can swing it, I'd recommend a '95 up 4th gen. The engine is simpler and seems to be quite reliable without the little quirks. It is very power and very torquey. It has like 90% of it's torque from 1600rpm up to 5000 rpm. The windows go up and down quick too.

However, I believe the suspension on the 3rd gen is a little better. I've seen 4th gen ones for as low as $6900 with 130k miles.

-V

 

Which engine is better the VG30E or the VE? Does this mean the VG30E does not have the VTC problem?

With the Maxima, is it an improving trend with each generation?

Thanks

 

I just bought a 1990 Max SE Auto with 162,000 for $2300. Its got black leather and Bose sound system. Its in great condition and even 3 out of the 4 Bose amps work, so thats not to bad.

 

The VE puts out 190hp. It's block is similar to the VG. The VG doesn't have the VTC, so there isn't one to go bad. The VQ engine in the 95+ Maxima is definitely better, in power delivery and smoothness. It's a whole new class/series of engine. The VQ30DE-K engine in the 2000+ models is similar to the VQ30DE in the 95+, but even more improved (222hp and more top end, it also uses composite intake runners instead of aluminium and has a variable intake.) I believe the engines have gotten better, especially starting with the 1995+ VQ series.

However, if you are going for a 3rd gen, the VG may be a little less troublesome (this was in all 1989-1991 Maximas, and in the GXE 1992-1994 Maximas). It is similar to the engine used in the 300ZX from 1990+ and the J30. I think the Pathfinder engine may even be related to it.

The question as to which engine is better is hard to answer. The VE has more hp, 190hp, compared to the VG with 160hp. The VE has 4 camshafts, while the VG has 2. The VE doesn't require timing belt changes every 60,000-100,000 miles because it uses the chain. (The VQ all use chains as well). If you're not going to be racing the car, then the VG should do just fine. It has quite a bit of torque.

-V

btw, I believe the Mercury Villager and Nissan Quest also use a version of the VG engine...

 

I don't know if I want to sell my Max. It seems people out there are looking for something cheap and then spend thousands of $$ to fix things that are worn out.

My Maxima is a 1992 SE, 5 speed stick, with 78,000 miles. I bought it from a Nissan dealer in 1993 with 10,000 miles on it. It is white with black interior and aftermarket (soft) leather seats and door trim. All fluids (oil, transmission oil, coolant, brake and clutch fluids), brake pads, tires, plugs, belts, etc. new. VTC replaced at 40,000 miles.

Everything works. Never had a problem with it other than VTC. It has ABS, airbag, limited slip differential, moonroof (sliding, original), power door locks, power mirrors. It has a Bose system with tape deck and I added Infiniti Kappa tweeters in the front. Paint is original except on 2 doors and a fender. Never in a serious accident (just rubbing). Paint is as shiny as a new one, I keep it waxed. I live in California so the car has no rust. Mostly freeway driving.

If anyone has a serious and good offer, I may consider. Retail is above $8,000 (see Kelly).

 

I had a chance to look at this vehicle. the VTC is bad, loud ticking for the first ten minutes then it goes away. Windshield has a small bullseye crack in it, antenia only works half mast and radio operates in a very strange manner but the four speakers works at low volume.

What bothers me most is is the hood! When it comes up, it rubs against the passengerside windshield wiper. Why is this so? Can someone check their maxima to see if there are any labels on the wipers. This one has A and B labeled on the wiper arm. How do I know if these wiper arms are OEM parts or not?

Thanks

Don

 

Run the VIN# on www.carfax.com . You can see if there's any serious things with the history of the vehicle. Definitely doesn't sound good if the hood hits on the wiper blade, do the body panels all line up straight? Do you see any weld marks? Also check the screws under the hood that bolt the fenders on. Do the heads look like they've been uncscrewed/screwed on after the factory paint? Do you see the VIN plates/stickers under the hood/on the firewall/around the door jambs?

-V

 

I went to carfax and placed the VIN in and this is the results

History Details: 3 records found in our database

What does this means? CarFax tracks what type of records? Maintainance? Collisions? Is it worth it to spend the money for this record?

I checked the body and I do not see any signs of bodywork. All the lines are straight and I do not see any work in the front. I checked around the fenders and all but did not see any work at all. I did not check the under the hood for the plate or stickers around the door jambs. I even checked the trunk under the carpet to see if the metal has ever been bent but see nothing unusual..

When I drove it, it moves when I punch it. However, I do not know much it is supposed to accelerate.. I can get him to do a compression check but that costs money.

As for the radio, he has to push the tape eject button before the radio will come on. Then the antena will only go up half mast. I know the antena needs work. I just do not know how much longer will this radio lasts.

The interior was pretty good. The only seat that was worn was the driver seat. The carpet is a little dirty but it is probably because of the kid.

The sunroof works fine - I do not care for sun roofs but at least it works.

The rear driver side window makes a little noise on the way up and down but every other windows are pretty smooth.


Any thoughts, suggestions, and assistance is appreciated..


Don

 

by having 3 entries, the vehicle might have multiple owners. if you go to the pay version of carfax (worth it if you ask me, there's on price to check one car, or another set price to check an unlimited number of cars for the next 30 days or something like that). I think it tells you on the site what it actually tracks, but I believe DMV reported major accidents and change of ownership and whether it was a rental car, etc...

check under the front of the car to see the condition of the CV boots as well, make sure they're not torn and there's no oil leaking out. also, by the crank pulley near the passenger wheel well, look for oil leaks from the front main seal.

-V

 

I know that this vehicle has three owners already. This is one of the smaller concerns I have. Just to give you a quick background..

This car belonged to my colleague's brother. He bought it 10 months ago but recently, he was shipped to Egypt to do his duties. He bought this car from his friend but no one knows the original owner. On this note, this is why I already knew it has three owners.

The changing of the guards makes me even more careful. I had a colleague who drives manual everyday for the last 12 years to drive the car and validate the clutch. He was impressed, he said it cannot be more than 30 miles on it. He down shifted from 4th to 2nd just to see how the car holds up and it did well.

I did not have a chance to take this car on the highway but I will check into the CV boots and the oil leak in the front wheel well as you suggested.

Thanks

 

the oil leak from near the passenger front wheel off the crank pulley is the front main seal. that was leaking when I got my 90 SE, and the CV boots were both torn.

if you do the work youself, parts aren't too expensive. if you have a mechanic do it, it's several hundred bucks.

-V

 

I forgot to mentioned that the passenger side mirror is broken. Does anyone know how much does this part cost?

Thanks

 

I forgot to mentioned that the passenger side mirror is broken. Does anyone know how much does this part cost?



If it is just the glass it's about $65.

 

I recently bought a 93 SE with the VE engine. It seems to be in good shape, but has 110k miles, I am worried about the VTC failing. What are some signs to look for? I have all records for the car, there is something in one of the about the VTC being rebuilt, but not replaced, or I think thats what they are trying to say, its a bit confusing. Any more specific info on this topic, and other maintenance things to check out on this new car, would be of great help!

 

On the FTC at first, I thought it would be hard to know but believe me, you cannot miss it. It is a loud ticking sound from the engine. If you dont hear any ticking noises, you are fine. I think most of the people here recommend carefull attention to oil change and the right oil filter.

I checked on the leaking at the front seal. I cannot see into that area but I did notice a small oil leak on the ground near the oil pan but in front of the oil pan bolt. I think this seal is leaking. Since I cannot put my hand in that tight area, can anyone shed some light on how to fix this problem?

I test drove the car again. In the first and second gear, this car pulls pretty good. The third gear is weak though. Is this normal?

The problem is that I do not know what to expect out of this car. I found a 4th gen 1995 SE for $7000 with 112k. At this moment, I cannot justify the $3k more for a car that is only one year and 40k less miles than a 1994 I am looking at. What do you think?

Thanks


Don

 

Just wanted to thank everyone for their inputs on buying this car.

I bought the car and am working on some of the smaller problems.

Fixing the wiper issue - looks like it is a failing ball joint.

Fixing the side mirror - parts from Ultimate Z - COZ- came out to less than $60.

Fix the antenna, looks like the mast is gone. Should I purchase a new repacement or fix? Fix - $25, new is $55.

Thought I had a exhaust manifold bolt failure but it was only the VTC. Not that the problem is easier but at least I can get to it without having to be a contortionist. Can somewhere share with me the NSB on the proper repair procedure for this VTC?

Once all this is done, then off to some mods! CAI first and then Y pipe and then FTSB and RSB.. Maybe some springs and strut mods later along with some better rims and tires.

thanks again,

 

I found a 94gxe with 81k for 5700 outside of chicago, check out chicagoautoimports.com they are good for haggling