Hi everyone,

Does anyone have any experience with ABS codes? My ABS light is on, and I checked the codes on the control unit, it's coming up with code 10: ABS Solenoid Relay Circuit Fault. Has anyone had a similar problem, and can comment on the easiness/cost factor of fixing this?

Thanks

 

A circuit fault could have several possible causes:
-Open/short in wiring
-Blown 20A fuse
-Bad solenoid valve relay
-Bad ABS actuator
-Bad ABS control unit

Remember, if the fuse is blown, there could be a reason, so simply replacing it may not fix the actual problem. It can blow again and again...

See this from the FSM: *LINK* Code 10 diagnosis

Good Luck!

 

Thanks for the help. I checked, but I have two fuses, and both were missing, both are labeled "Anti-skid" on the fuse lid cover, and one is labeled 25A the other 30A. I replace these with two new ones, and after I did, the brakes feel really hard. The brake pedal feels much "firmer" and the brake pedal travel is much less. Is this normal?

Thanks

 

My car doesn't have ABS, so I am not sure if it is 'normal' or not. I like a firmer brake pedal feel anyway. I think it's a good thing.

 

yes, I noticed the same thing after I reconnected my ABS the other day.

 

Ok, so I have the fuses back in, have been driving it with ABS for a day or so, and noticed that when the car is about to stop, under normal light braking, it seems like the ABS solenoids get going... I can feel the pedal pulsate and can hear a noise at the brakes. Is this just the system adjusting or is there something else going on? There are no codes anymore on the control module.

Thanks

 

it's the system working, you may not detect the wheel speed difference but it is.

 

SOLVED

I found out that it all leads back to a wire going from the battery to the alternator. The wire, W/R, goes from the battery, through a 10A fuse located beside the battery, which goes to the S terminal of the alternator. This wire is supposed to have +12V at all times, and also connects to the G/W output wire from the alternator which is connected to both the BRAKE and BATTERY warning lights through the bulb check relay, the Daylight Running Module, as well as the ABS control module. If the ABS control module gets <12V on this wire, it can cause it to actuate improperly, according to the FSM. (Also, if the Daylight Running Light module gets <12V on this same wire, it turns off the lights since it thinks the alternator is dying). So I fixed the broken connection in this wire (W/R), and everything works perfectly. Who would have thought one wire could do so much damage, lol. It seems it always takes forever to diagnose something that turns out to be such an easy thing to fix. It's a happy day for the ol' Max!