Just got done today swapping out one injector with another one, since the old one's resistance was out of spec(27ohms). Car started just fine, but after a minute or two stalled out while idling. Had to floor it a few times to restart it.

Took it for a drive around the block and it seemed to run fine. Later in the evening went to get some dinner, and the car stalled out about a mile down the road and could not restart it. Had to push the car to the side and get a ride w/ a friend.

Went back to the car an hour later and it started right up just fine and drove fine all the way home, about 2 miles. Did notice the fans were running excessively. I'm thinking maybe some air bubbles are in the coolant system, since I removed those 2 hoses from the throttle body, and could be causing trouble with a temp sensor. Anyone else have any ideas about what is causing the car to stall out?

 

Vaccum leak

 

Do you think that would not stall the car until a mile or two though? I was thinking a vacuum leak would stall it right away rather than while driving. You may be right though.

 

Yes, You might have an air bubble in the coolant system, perhaps that's uncovered the temp sensor. The engine warms up, but the sensor can't sense it, so it tells the engine that it's running cold when it's actually heated up. Try the coolant priming procedure mentioned in many posts here and loosen the coolant system priming bolt, next to the gold tag in front of the throttle cable connections to let the air out.

 

Thanks for your input. I think it must have something wrong with the temp sensor, or an air bubble. Today when I started it up, the cooling fans turned on full blast the second the engine started. Then the next few minutes at idle, they would go on and off intermittently. Sometimes would just kick on for a couple seconds and turn off. ???

Do you happen to have a link to that priming procedure? I did open that breather screw for a few seconds, not sure if it did any good though.

 

Check your coolant temperature sensor. If you are looking into the engine it's in the left side of the intake manifold. Just up from the ECCS spark plug deal.

Look for wires in this area not connected to anything. When I replaced my fuel injector and was putting everything back I moved the wire to the coolant sensor and it just fell apart, literally. But what do you expect on a car 13 years old.

When you replace it, if that's the problem, make sure you have something to plug the hole when you take it out otherwise coolant will come rushing out.

 

Was it a rear injector? I had very similar symptoms when replacing my rear injector due to not replacing the intake gasket. The intake leak was bad enough the car would barely run, and would stall out as soon as it returned to idle.

 

Checked the coolant sensor, and it was corroded as hell on the connectors. Scraped off some of that junk and will test it tomorrow. I can't see how it was making any connection. Resistance was ok for the cold temp. Will have to retest it when it's hot. However, I checked the IACV sensor and it shows about 37ohms, when I think it's supposed to be 10. May be part of the problem.

The injector was the front middle one. I may have to try replacing the intake collector gasket again. Hope I don't have to though. Used a new one, but also used some of this gasket tack stuff to hold it in place. Now I hear you're not supposed to use any sealant on it. Maybe that could be causing a small leak. But the car will run for a good while before it craps out and dies.

It could possibly be a bad injector that I put in. I read sometimes they will short out. Came from a salvage yard, but tested ok for resistance and was from a '99, so it's a little newer. But it's clicking, so seems to be operating fine. Not really sure what to test out next.

 

im going to lean against a leaking injector. Do you have a way to check the fuel pressure? WAs it hard to turn over when you were trying to restart it? you can take the plug out and see what it looks like if it rich or maybe even dripping with gas. Or you can take the rail out and switch the car on so the fuel pu,mp will turn on and see if it seeps gas out.

 

....Uh was it really from a '99? That would be a problem...

~Alex

 

That's not a problem, 92-99 DOHC maxima injectors are interchangeable

 

Well, the car now seems to be running like a champ. I got around to testing it out tonight and it idled and drove about 15mi without any problems. The two things I did were open the coolant breather bolt for a bit, and cleaned the coolant temp sensor of the caked on green corrosion.

I'm almost positive it was the temp sensor, because like I said before fans would come on at startup and go on and off like they couldn't decide what to do.

I also came across an article that points to temp sensors causing trouble after injector replacement. Not sure why it would, but it does seem to be the case with my car anyway. Read the section under "missing injectors" if interested.

http://www.thecarconnection.com/Enth...S209.A472.html

Thanks to all for the help.

 

No problem man. I thought it had to be a sensor of some sort. A vacuum leak would cause more serious problems.

Also if the injector was bad the car would still run it would just run funny.

You're not supposed to use any sealent stuff on the manifold except the gaskets you replace. I doubt it hurt anything since it is after all sealent but now you know.

 

Gasket tack or adhesive usually isn't a problem on a fit like this. Don't use silcone or any other gasket-making sealant, that's the key.

(Trying to get my 15 posts in so I can find out why a friend's 89 Max won't run.)