colinnwn

So I am replacing several dead injectors, and decided to replace the valve cover gaskets at the same time, since I have most of the job done already. Suprisingly I didn't find anything on this in the stickies. The car needs about a quart of oil every 2000 miles with 270k miles on the odo. I guess that's not bad, but at least some of it is coming out the valve covers.

Does anyone have opinions on what is best to seal the new rubber valve cover gaskets with? I have read people use oxygen sensor safe RTV silicone, Permatex #2 non-hardening gasket sealant, Indian Head gasket shellac, and the Chilton's manual doesn't recommend anything. Also, if anyone has done this before, do you have any other tips?

Thanks, Colin.

generation3

iTrader: (33)

Are you talking about the upper intake gaskets? Me and a friend recently replaced our fuel injectors and replaced the two gaskets after we took off the valve cover. We just used the ones from internetautomart. You can also go to courtesy nissan and they have it. We didn't use any seal to put the gaskets on just put the valve cover back on top and matched it up. I'm in Plano if you want any help.

92 Max

I just did this on my '92 SE. The gaskets don't require any gasket sealer on most of it. It may need to free float for expansion and contraction. It does require the Permatex grey, silicone sealant where the Head meets the timing chain cover at the front and the half moon cut outs at the rear (don't know the layout on the VG engine). But this is all the FSM called for on my engine.

colinnwn

@generation3
I just realized I wasn't clear on that, I meant sealant for the valve cover gaskets. I edited the post to make it more clear. Thanks for the help offer. Hopefully this will go smoother than replacing the fuel injectors and I won't need it. If I do need help, I know who to holler at now.

@92 Max
I saw that in the Autozone Chilton's for the VE. It didn't say that for the VG. But I will doublecheck when I get to my FSM to be sure it wasn't an oversight on the VG.

Thanks.

Matt93SE

iTrader: (44)

Yeah, the only place you'd need any sort of sealant is where there are mating surfaces around the head- on the VE you have the spots where the timing covers mate up to the front of the head, and the valve cover sits on top of both pieces. you'll put a dab of RTV there and another small dab on the half-moon shaped pieces in the back that go around the cam lobes. otherwise you don't use any sealant on them. (makes it nice and easy to remove later when you get your FAW#)(FWE@#$)(!#@$ cams one tooth off. )

I don't think you'll need anything for the VG heads, but it's been a long time since I've messed with a VG.

Cliff Clavin

iTrader: (11)

You and MrGone must have gone to the same shop class

MethMax

well you have a VG right, then you shouldn't need any sealant for that. So just get some new valve cover gaskets from internetautomart like generation3 said and you might want to get new grommets for all the bolts that hold the cover on (if they are all cracking). or you can just try tightening all the bolts for the cover, they could be loose.

you should also get some new gaskets for the upper intake manifold, you can either get a reagular one or a metal one which a nissan dealer should have on hand.

Phoenix

The grey Permatex stuff should go on the gasket, new or not. I had my valve cover off a few months ago and cleaned up the residue from a small oil leak right above the id plate (this is on a VE). I ran a bead of the grey permatex along the old gasket and reinstalled it. I had been planned on replacing it in short order but the old one with the permatex is holding up so well I don't see a need to. I think it cost like $3 for a tube and it definately can't hurt you, right?

Jon94SE

be carefull what kind and how much you use because it can be really messy and a pain the next time you pull it off. Grey permatex usuallly works pretty good

generation3

iTrader: (33)

While you're down there and have the valve cover off you might want to replace some hoses. I ended up breaking a few lines in the process because they were so brittle. Also if you get the gas smell in the winter replace your fuel lines or just do it anyway since you're down there.

colinnwn

@MethMax
My screws were completely loose. I think I am going to risk it and not replace the valve cover gaskets. I will replace the phillips screws with hex cap screws so I can torque them down to the exact max recommended of 2.2ft/lbs. No wonder these things get loose and leak so easily when the only tension holding them is a little pressure on a rubber grommit.

@generation3
I am replacing all rubber fuel hoses, and other hoses as cracked. Its absolutely shocking how many counter slackies have offered me carbureted fuel hose or PCV hose when I have specifically requested fuel injection hose. When I say, no, I need the stuff rated for fuel injection, they give me a blank look !?!

It looks like I will have to take the distributor out to access one of the valve cover screws, is this true? And are there any other screws that require taking more stuff off the engine?

Thanks, Colin.