I've been having trouble with hesitation for some time now. The car used to stall when I turned or sometimes just driving down the road. I reduced this to mostly just a sudden loss of power by replacing all of the vacuum hoses, but it still would lose all power for an instant at these times and I couldn't figure out why. Also the car was not as powerful as before.
I had checked out the fuel pump pressure and tested the fuel pump relay on the battery as the book suggested. All checked out fine. I just replaced the fuel pump (green) relay on my car on a hunch and it's a new car. It dosn't hesitate or stall and has all of it's old power and poop back. I think the relay was weak and not supplying enough power to the pump or intermitant power. This relay is back by the rear bumper, so the power has to come all the way back front to rear, then go back 1/2 way across the car to the pump. Perhaps There is too much resistance in this circuit to run the relay reliably. Anyway, there are several of these relays for the engine (Computer, Coils, FICD, etc) and at this age they may be weak. As I said, mine checked out O.K. yet was bad. A new one for $15 was the cure.

 

congrats and lucky u for only spending $15

 

Thanks, I'll give mine a shot too! My car sometimes stalls after a turn or just cruising as yours.

 

nice info...I know someone that needs to try this.

 

Well, I just spent $15 after putting 3 new injectors in the back, and two new coil packs and a few other things, before hitting on this.

 

i was having the same problems. but I aso had slight bumps during shifts. i found wires underneith my intake MAF that split from the pigtail and grounded to a littel grey box on my fender. the wires were cut. i connected them and my car was a champ again. congrats on a 15$ fix!

 

Interesting, I'm gonna give this a shot too, I'm having some hesitation problems also, and still can't find the fault. Thanks for the tip.

 

where exactly is the relay?? rear bumper??

 

Haven't looked for it yet, but probably in trunk by the latch under the plastic trim piece.

I called my 3 dealerships and none of them had it in stock, plus they wanted $25. I wonder if there's a difference btw the green and blue relay.

 

This relay is inside the rear lip of the trunk. You remove the plastic trunck lip liner that the trunk latch runs through and bend back the mouse fur trunk liner under it. The relay is mounted to a bracket on the drivers side of the latch.

 

I got it online, but you can also get it from NAPA if I'm not mistaken. Take the printed part number off of it, (something like Cxxxxx-xxxx) and they can match it up on the computer.

 

I replaced the green relay (pn 25230-c9965) with a spare fog blue relay I had (pn 25230-c9970) which looks essentially the same, wonder if they are interchangeable. So far no hesitation around corners, but I haven't noticed a huge difference in power. As long as I don't stall anymore I'll be happy! Thanks again for the tip.

 

Unfortunately there seems to be numerous ways these cars develop hesitation (coils, coil extensions, MAF, etc.). This fuel pump relay was the one that worked for me. Mine had been hesitating for several years now, with increasing frequency, and gradual loss of power, until it got so bad I could diagnose it. Glad to have been able to contribute to the cure.

 

another thing... for those of you that have done a lot to the engine, it certainly wouldn't hurt to run new and larger wire to the fuel pump from the battery. 10awg wire is cheap and certainly wouldn't hurt to have in there.. do that and replace it with a quality aftermarket 40A relay and you'll be golden.

 

did this solve ur problems by replacing the relay

 

Didn't solve mine, but I didn't use a brand new relay.

My hesitation is probably the coil packs although none of them have cracks. Other guess would be O2 sensor which I will replace soon since I haven't done that since I bought the car 3yrs ago.