UGH JWT ECU - I got 0 gains!!help
#2
Originally posted by JibaroMax
I just got my ecu installed and i feel 0 gains it doesnt even rev to 7k rpms i dont know whats wrong....did i install this wrong ..i hope i didnt waste my time and money help !
-peace
I just got my ecu installed and i feel 0 gains it doesnt even rev to 7k rpms i dont know whats wrong....did i install this wrong ..i hope i didnt waste my time and money help !
-peace
#5
yea im running premimum fuel..and i have the mods listed below..what do u mean remaps fuel curve...and as for timing i hear a lot of pinging from the engine..so u sayin if i upshift from 1st gear it should go to 7?
#9
Pull that thing out ASAP. That pinging and rattling is NOT good. If you continue to run like that, YOU WILL destroy you motor. What is happening is you car is detonating because you've got too much advance. 3 things things you should do right now is check your plug wires, pull all your plugs and check the gaps, and MAKE SURE you haven't manually advanced the timing. If you have advanced the timing, take it back to stock.
Dave
Dave
#11
Guest
Posts: n/a
Johnny is Right..
Originally posted by JibaroMax
omg how da hell do i fix that! i broguht it to the mechanic shop and said the timing was ok...he said to use mystery oil...o no....help!!!
omg how da hell do i fix that! i broguht it to the mechanic shop and said the timing was ok...he said to use mystery oil...o no....help!!!
#12
If your car is pinging, then the car is detecting it and seriously pulling the timing back. I agree w/ the others, either you or the previous owner changed the base timing or something else it wrong with the car. As long as the car is pinging, you will never see the advantages of the JWT ecu.
So it never pinged before and now it's pinging? Or it's pingig more than before? I would have a mechanic clearly say what the base timing is, "not just it's okay".
1) Run a ecu diagnostic and see if you get any error codes. Maybe you have a bad det. sensor.
2) Contact JWT and have them confirm (with the s/n or other identifing numbers) that you do in fact have the correct ecu for your car. ie.. 19xx maxima 5-sp or auto. Build code xxxx, Calif or Federal spec. etc......
So it never pinged before and now it's pinging? Or it's pingig more than before? I would have a mechanic clearly say what the base timing is, "not just it's okay".
1) Run a ecu diagnostic and see if you get any error codes. Maybe you have a bad det. sensor.
2) Contact JWT and have them confirm (with the s/n or other identifing numbers) that you do in fact have the correct ecu for your car. ie.. 19xx maxima 5-sp or auto. Build code xxxx, Calif or Federal spec. etc......
#14
i went to another mechanic and he said that the timing chains are stressed out and i gotta replace them..750 dollars just for labor! buttt......my car picks up a hell of a lot quicker today..shocked me but the rambling and dingling is still there...but i did yes indeed have the problem before..(the udp is well worth it buy it!)its pinging the same as before...damn i dont know wha to do ..try cleaning something out or just let it go away gradually like it did before? but most def no loss of power like i said..my car felt like it was packing more heat today...
peace
peace
#15
Like everyone is saying.....
you can't let this continue you're engine is showing signs toward detonation, you need to get this fixed ASAP, before something bad happens......like Jeff said you need to run a diagnostic very soon, this is no minor prob!
Originally posted by JibaroMax
or just let it go away gradually like it did before?
or just let it go away gradually like it did before?
#19
But that was before.....
you put in the new ECU right?? the JWT ECU remaps your ignition and fuel curve, so if the car is "pingning" than something isn't going right with the new mixture and your engine! or like Jeff said a bad knock snesor. are you positive that your timing was at the stock setting 15 degrees before you installed the new ECU??
Originally posted by JibaroMax
brought the car for a diagnostic 3 weeks ago...no problems..at the nissan dealer
brought the car for a diagnostic 3 weeks ago...no problems..at the nissan dealer
#21
yea it had to be at stock settings...the nissan dealer and the local mechanic checked it out..now whats the deal with the knock sensor and how do i get that fixed? i dont know wanna spend a lot of dough..like i said maybe if i just wait it will go away
#22
You so craaaaaazzzzyyyy.....
I know you want the extra power, but let me elaborate on what's happening with your car.
When the engine is pinging and rattling, it means the spark timing is off forcing uncontrolled ignition which means the compression cycles are screwed which means your crank and pistons are running in a fashion for which they were never intended. Visualize uncontrolled explosions at the wrong time during the 4-stroke cycle. What ends up happening is your crank and pistons become immensely stressed and they will eventually crack, shatter, or bend. If that happens, the whole motor is pretty much toast because the pistons and crank tend to take everything with them on failure (ie the heads, valves, block, oil pan, pump).
Take the ECU out, confirm with JWT that you've got the right one and ask them if this is a typical problem. I don't know who told you that the car will "learn" over time. That just doesn't make sense to me seeing that you bought a programmed ECU. The only thing that learns is the ECU and it only has a select few tables from which to adjust with. If the ECU senses knock, the knock sensor will pull back timing. If hte car continues to knock after the ECU has made the adjustment YOU'VE GOT MAJOR PROBLEMS!!!
Dave
I know you want the extra power, but let me elaborate on what's happening with your car.
When the engine is pinging and rattling, it means the spark timing is off forcing uncontrolled ignition which means the compression cycles are screwed which means your crank and pistons are running in a fashion for which they were never intended. Visualize uncontrolled explosions at the wrong time during the 4-stroke cycle. What ends up happening is your crank and pistons become immensely stressed and they will eventually crack, shatter, or bend. If that happens, the whole motor is pretty much toast because the pistons and crank tend to take everything with them on failure (ie the heads, valves, block, oil pan, pump).
Take the ECU out, confirm with JWT that you've got the right one and ask them if this is a typical problem. I don't know who told you that the car will "learn" over time. That just doesn't make sense to me seeing that you bought a programmed ECU. The only thing that learns is the ECU and it only has a select few tables from which to adjust with. If the ECU senses knock, the knock sensor will pull back timing. If hte car continues to knock after the ECU has made the adjustment YOU'VE GOT MAJOR PROBLEMS!!!
Dave
#23
Johnathan's cell phone $uck$
I helped him install it, originally he thought it was his FSTB ratting (one bolt fell out). Later he had removed the FSTB and the pingging was still their. We didnt know how much the ecu is supposed to advance the timmming (5 or 9??). I told him to try octane booster to see if it would go away. But he left with Max. Perf. members to see F&F and didnt inform me on the running condition after trying the ocatane booster.
When we were done installing the ecu and I had noticed the noise, I thought it was an exhaust leak! We took the car to a section of the LIE (my personal piece of test track ) I could get up to 120 easily, he wasnt able to do 85!
He has ABS (which I dont) and it is very difficult to see the main pulley to check the timming (which is something I would have done for him in the past if I could have). Just to verify the stock timming.
I spoke to him the other day when I saw this post, and he said that he had already sent back the original ecu .
On friday I will bring back the timming gradually just to see if it will go away.
He told me he went to see a max. mechanic (some mechanic who has done a turbo max). This guy said that his timming chains are shot or something?? and its like 700 or 900 to fix!
When we were done installing the ecu and I had noticed the noise, I thought it was an exhaust leak! We took the car to a section of the LIE (my personal piece of test track ) I could get up to 120 easily, he wasnt able to do 85!
He has ABS (which I dont) and it is very difficult to see the main pulley to check the timming (which is something I would have done for him in the past if I could have). Just to verify the stock timming.
I spoke to him the other day when I saw this post, and he said that he had already sent back the original ecu .
On friday I will bring back the timming gradually just to see if it will go away.
He told me he went to see a max. mechanic (some mechanic who has done a turbo max). This guy said that his timming chains are shot or something?? and its like 700 or 900 to fix!
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