Clunk Clunk!!!!!!!!!
#1
Clunk Clunk!!!!!!!!!
I need help finding the cause of a clunk in my front suspension I seems to be at the worst when going over bumps ...
I just recently replaced my balljoints and the sway bar link bushings and the tie rod ends ...
I think it might have gotten alittle better at first but now it is like it was before again!!!(MAD)
What other bushings are there up front that could cause clunks ?
I don't think it is my CV joints either because they are not torn but I guess they still could go bad ?...
If my lower control arm bushings are bad will it cause this metal to metal clunk sound?
Thanks for all input given!!!!!!!
I just recently replaced my balljoints and the sway bar link bushings and the tie rod ends ...
I think it might have gotten alittle better at first but now it is like it was before again!!!(MAD)
What other bushings are there up front that could cause clunks ?
I don't think it is my CV joints either because they are not torn but I guess they still could go bad ?...
If my lower control arm bushings are bad will it cause this metal to metal clunk sound?
Thanks for all input given!!!!!!!
#5
It is in the front for sure and it clunks while turning or going over bumps
How can I check the condition of the strut mounts ?
Sqibb what type of clunk can you be more descriptive?
Thanks
How can I check the condition of the strut mounts ?
Sqibb what type of clunk can you be more descriptive?
Thanks
#11
Originally Posted by Maxima Man
Greenmax I just asked my dad and he said the CV axles are 1 year old with less than 300 miles on them so I doubt its them ........
1 year and less than 300 miles? who are you Cliff Clavin? but really that does sound like a CV axle to me too.
#13
Originally Posted by Sgibb
If i hit the breaks too hard i would hear a loud clunk and when i went over some bumps i would hear it squeaking too
Wheel bearing maybe? I don't know man this is wierd.
#15
Does the front wheel squeek or chirp. If it chirps it could be the brakes. Did you check the tightness of the brake mounting bolts ( and also the suspension bolts). If these are not tight they will cause clunks.
#17
Well I am leaning towards the strut mounts and Its sometimes a clunk while hiting a bump but also there is another noise is heard when just driving straight and it sounds like a pop noise that has alittle bit of tap noise to it as well and you will here this once every 1-2miles sometimes much more frequent...
How much do you think a shop might cahrge me to replace the strut mounts I know its pretty straight forward but I just don't feel like screwing with the springs..
Thanks for the ideas!!!!!!!!!!!!
How much do you think a shop might cahrge me to replace the strut mounts I know its pretty straight forward but I just don't feel like screwing with the springs..
Thanks for the ideas!!!!!!!!!!!!
#18
Originally Posted by slickblack94
I would guess strut mounts.Mine clunk on bumps and brick roads,and when flying over rail road tracks he he he
lol.....brick roads ......cant say i ever had the opportunity to take my max on one of those
#19
it is straight forward and you can borrow spring compressors from autozone for free. you should do it yourself. im not a mechanic and i changed my struts and springs. it was easy, you can look at a write up on here and just look for the info about the mounts.
#21
OH OK THE CAR..........
I might do it myself if I look at it and It looks simple enough ....
I checked and everything is tight under there and I have replaced all but lower control arm bushings ......
Any idea what the pop/snap sound might be
Thanks
I might do it myself if I look at it and It looks simple enough ....
I checked and everything is tight under there and I have replaced all but lower control arm bushings ......
Any idea what the pop/snap sound might be
Thanks
#24
the bushings on these cars tend to go bad especially the right front when there is an oil leak there ( I went through 2 in a year or so)
I can sell you arms without *****, but the pricing difference is only like $5
I can sell you arms without *****, but the pricing difference is only like $5
#26
If it is the strut mounts, you can save money by taking the strut assemblys of and taking them to the shop. I would let them deal with the springs, though.
A good indication that it is the control arm is if there is abnormally high tire wear on the inside edge of the tire.
A good indication that it is the control arm is if there is abnormally high tire wear on the inside edge of the tire.
#28
Originally Posted by MyGreenMax94
does it clunk while turning or just over bumps??
umm my car clunks on both... so the turning would be? control arm? and over tracks/bumps strut? or actually sound more like a banging noise? could that be bearings i dunno
#29
Originally Posted by Pepi
umm my car clunks on both... so the turning would be? control arm? and over tracks/bumps strut? or actually sound more like a banging noise? could that be bearings i dunno
A "clunk clunk clunk clunk clunk clunk" sound around turns is a common sign of a bad cv joint..You can "feel" it in the body of the car when it clunks...
#30
have you ruled out where the lower ball joint connects to the steering knuckle? if that nut is loose, it will definitely produce a clunking sound although your stability will also be affected when turning which you haven't mentioned. just an idea.
#32
The CV joints make noise when you turn your steering all the way either side while moving. It's click-click-click-click-click-click-click....
Clunks on the straight line over the bumps is not CV, not ball joints either. The ball joints make noise when the wheel drops, when the wheel rises, they are quiet.
I think it's the strut tower mounts or control arms.
Clunks on the straight line over the bumps is not CV, not ball joints either. The ball joints make noise when the wheel drops, when the wheel rises, they are quiet.
I think it's the strut tower mounts or control arms.
#34
Front strut job is a 2-3 hour DIY fun, if you have good spring compressors. There is my write-up somewhere in this forum dated 2003-2004, and lots of other's write-ups. You basically borrow the spring compressors from a store, do the work and return them. You need a set of wrenches besides that. Very straightforward and saves you lots of $$$.
Rear struts are a bit trickier, but it's only in the part where you have to remove the gland seal nut, which I recommend doing by bolting the strut to a wheel and turning the cap with adjusting plyers. Then there might be some grinding on the bottom of the new cartridges if you get Kyb GR2 and they are tad too tall. That's it.
Rear struts are a bit trickier, but it's only in the part where you have to remove the gland seal nut, which I recommend doing by bolting the strut to a wheel and turning the cap with adjusting plyers. Then there might be some grinding on the bottom of the new cartridges if you get Kyb GR2 and they are tad too tall. That's it.
#35
Originally Posted by maxitech
If it is the strut mounts, you can save money by taking the strut assemblys of and taking them to the shop. I would let them deal with the springs, though.
A good indication that it is the control arm is if there is abnormally high tire wear on the inside edge of the tire.
A good indication that it is the control arm is if there is abnormally high tire wear on the inside edge of the tire.
#38
Just change out the drive axles. They could be coming apart inside the boots may still be good but it is the guts that count. The could be rebuilt and porly done and change both at the same time. Not a hard job to do. Or just get stuck on the road at night in the dark somewhere
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