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car won't start, clicking like machine gun

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Old Sep 22, 2006 | 06:16 PM
  #1  
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car won't start, clicking like machine gun

I'm having trouble starting my car up. The music plays and light and everything else works, but the car won't start up. It makes a clicking sound when I turn the key and try to start it up.

Today I changed the pcv hose, btw that is PITA, and placed everything back. I manage not to have extra screws, bolts etc. I believe I hooked up everthing, but just not sure why I can't start up. Any help would be greatly appriciated

thanks
Old Sep 22, 2006 | 06:43 PM
  #2  
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Is it clicking really fast? Sounds like either your starter is fubar, your solenoid is shot, or you have a few missing teeth on your flywheel. Try rocking the car a bit in gear.
Old Sep 22, 2006 | 06:45 PM
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Check/make sure your battery connections are in tight/clean...


If they are,a bad starter is suspect..
Old Sep 22, 2006 | 07:10 PM
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first, check and smell if you have gas, unplug your fuel filter see if your getting fuel and if thats not pumping... your fuel pump is out

TIS what happened to me...
Old Sep 22, 2006 | 07:13 PM
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I definitely will check them tomorrow. Just curious though, everything worked fine before I tore up everything just to replace the pcv hose. I have lights, music and all that, but could I have done something that may ruin the starter?

again thanks for the inputs you guys have made.
Old Sep 22, 2006 | 07:14 PM
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Originally Posted by xx-Marshall-xx
first, check and smell if you have gas, unplug your fuel filter see if your getting fuel and if thats not pumping... your fuel pump is out

TIS what happened to me...
Sooooooo.....If he has no gas or gas flow......The starter will click?????













Think about it dude...
Old Sep 22, 2006 | 07:17 PM
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YES YES YES!!! i read his first post thuroughly after i posted lol...

stupid me
Old Sep 22, 2006 | 07:18 PM
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im getting too excited trying to help people... all i do is get because i dont read it correctly
Old Sep 22, 2006 | 09:03 PM
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Yeah I've been lucky with my started so far, I sometimes have to turn the key 3 or 4 times before I get a response, but she's still hanging in there. I haven't checked on a price for a starter yet...should I cringe?
Old Sep 22, 2006 | 09:05 PM
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Originally Posted by Jon94SE
Yeah I've been lucky with my started so far, I sometimes have to turn the key 3 or 4 times before I get a response, but she's still hanging in there. I haven't checked on a price for a starter yet...should I cringe?

Same with me before this happened. I'm on my 2nd junkyard starter, this use to start the car with one turn of the key for 1-2 sec... I'm gonna take the starter out and have it checked at advance auto. If it is bad I'm just gonna replace it there, I'm done with the junkyard...starter anyways.
Old Sep 23, 2006 | 10:58 AM
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I bought one at advanced and It was 100.00 dollars and had like a 50.00 core charge so the original price was like 150.00

It was a 45 min swap simple and not very clean but simple to get to !!
Old Sep 23, 2006 | 11:58 AM
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The starter solenoid would click once if the solenoid or starter is bad. You get the rapid fire clicking if the battery is too weak to hold the solenoid closed. I would suspect the battery or wires and connectors from battery to starter (or possibly the starter switch circuit.
Old Sep 23, 2006 | 01:35 PM
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Hello! I had the same problem a couple of months ago, I was just changing power steering hose and after that my car won't start, so i was like "man, this has nothing to do with my starter, so why?" and just about trying to take out the starter a friend give me a jump and my car start, thinking about it, when i replaced the hose I had the door open and the lights weaken my battery, even i could turn the radio on, electric belts and windows works good, but batt wasn't strong enough to hold the solenoid, so IMO try a jump first, I hope this help.
Old Sep 23, 2006 | 02:55 PM
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I agree with the last two posters.
Old Sep 23, 2006 | 09:08 PM
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you guys nailed it. It was the battery, that should have been the first thing I replaced. Switched to duralast gold. Replaced the battery and now I get the beautiful - barely turn the key - startup. Except now my egr valve will not screw on so I have to wait till monday to get a replacement.

Started up the car and forgot the the egr was not screwed up and heard a loud whistle, like tea pot whistle amplified. Scared the crap out of me.

But anyways problem solved thanks to you all of you for guidance
Old Sep 24, 2006 | 04:40 PM
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If you are talking about the metal pipe on the back of the EGR, it is a pistol to reattach. Pull the nut on the tube back slightly and make sure you push the flared end of the pipe onto the EGR nipple square. If its twisted or off slightly you'll never get the nut to spin on. Once you've muscled the pipe into position, while holding it there, get the nut started, then tighten away.
Old Sep 24, 2006 | 07:03 PM
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Originally Posted by 92 Max
If you are talking about the metal pipe on the back of the EGR, it is a pistol to reattach. Pull the nut on the tube back slightly and make sure you push the flared end of the pipe onto the EGR nipple square. If its twisted or off slightly you'll never get the nut to spin on. Once you've muscled the pipe into position, while holding it there, get the nut started, then tighten away.

I definitely tried that to the point of pulling a muscle, the 'teeth' on the egr valve is gone on the first row. So I can pull the nut towards the body and start twisting but it will grab ever so slightly and break off. I'm gonna see if the junk/salvage yard have any, otherwise I'm gonna have to overnight one online. None of the auto stores in town have one in stock and it takes 5-7 days for them to get one. I found an online store that can overnight it for the same price as what they are selling if they had one in stock

But I do appriciate the tip given
Old Sep 25, 2006 | 04:01 AM
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Originally Posted by Maxmus_X
I definitely tried that to the point of pulling a muscle, the 'teeth' on the egr valve is gone on the first row. So I can pull the nut towards the body and start twisting but it will grab ever so slightly and break off. I'm gonna see if the junk/salvage yard have any, otherwise I'm gonna have to overnight one online. None of the auto stores in town have one in stock and it takes 5-7 days for them to get one. I found an online store that can overnight it for the same price as what they are selling if they had one in stock

But I do appriciate the tip given
I have a good used egr valve for sale..
Old Sep 25, 2006 | 05:56 PM
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Originally Posted by Maxmus_X
I definitely tried that to the point of pulling a muscle, the 'teeth' on the egr valve is gone on the first row. So I can pull the nut towards the body and start twisting but it will grab ever so slightly and break off. I'm gonna see if the junk/salvage yard have any, otherwise I'm gonna have to overnight one online. None of the auto stores in town have one in stock and it takes 5-7 days for them to get one. I found an online store that can overnight it for the same price as what they are selling if they had one in stock

But I do appriciate the tip given
I'm going to pull the EGR, accoridng to this: http://www.geocities.com/cbmaxima/maxima/egr/egr.html ... but on a VG30E ... and clean everything up with Carb Cleaner.

Is there anything delicate with the EGR that I should know about so I don't end up breaking it? What "teeth"? Anything else? Might be one of these things you just have to experience.

I just pulled an EGR on a Supra and on a Saturn with no probs .. but there were no "teeth" to worry about.
Old Sep 25, 2006 | 06:02 PM
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If I just didn't read this thread today.......I was going to say battery. Same thing happened with my 95' F-150. It was clicking and the lights & stereo were working, but just wouldn't go through. Took out the big a$$ battery charger, and it starts like I just drove it off the showroom floor...201k miles..not bad for an old Ford.
Old Sep 25, 2006 | 07:34 PM
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Originally Posted by MyGreenMax94
I have a good used egr valve for sale..

Sorry green, bought a new egr and overnighted it so it should be here tuesday morning. Need it asap. But thanks for the offer tho
Old Sep 25, 2006 | 07:38 PM
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Originally Posted by TempMaxMan
I'm going to pull the EGR, accoridng to this: http://www.geocities.com/cbmaxima/maxima/egr/egr.html ... but on a VG30E ... and clean everything up with Carb Cleaner.

Is there anything delicate with the EGR that I should know about so I don't end up breaking it? What "teeth"? Anything else? Might be one of these things you just have to experience.

I just pulled an EGR on a Supra and on a Saturn with no probs .. but there were no "teeth" to worry about.

Just follow the instructions and you should be fine. Spray, rinse and repeat till clean liquid pours out.
Old Sep 27, 2006 | 04:26 AM
  #23  
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Guys i have a problem i just got my max a couple of months ago fixed my clutch line and a couple of other things but i have consisting problem on the side of my xhust leak that i ahve wich im fixing this weekend i hace a Clacking sound coming from the Left of my motor and idk if its a Valve tap or what but it only does it when the car heats up If anyone might kno wut this problem is and might kno how to get rid of it pls pst back thx.
Old Sep 27, 2006 | 04:27 AM
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"exhaust*" Fixing my spelling :x
Old Sep 27, 2006 | 07:29 PM
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Originally Posted by DarkMax565
"exhaust*" Fixing my spelling :x
you've got a LOT worse spelling problem than that.

and what you are hearing is most probably your VTCs or timing chain tensioner.
for more answers DONATE and search,your next several questions will be answered in the search.
Old Oct 2, 2006 | 08:57 PM
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I had the same problem in my case the battery led was dim and notice the clock was also dim i change the battery and had no problem starting the car
Old Oct 8, 2006 | 02:28 PM
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solenoids. Had the exact same problem. I wast going to mess around, so i git a reconditioned alternator and 600cca battery from the 06 maxima. That sound means that theres not enough power to turn over the engine, but enough to run your head unit. Hope that helps!
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