A while back, my VE started making some top end noise. I initially thought it was a lifter tick. It slowly got louder over time and it started occuring more often until it was almost a constant clack. The damn thing sounded like a diesel. People on the org were telling me that it was my vtc's which I thought that it probably was the vtc's. I replaced/rebuilt the vtc's and replaced the upper timing chain tensioners. Initially, the noise seemed to be better after I did this, but it was still there. Again, it proceeded to get worse and worse which led me to believe that it was a lifter problem. I tried all sorts of engine flushes and additives and I also started using the yota filter. This seemed to help slightly, but it still proceeded to get worse.

Yesterday, I replaced ALL of my lifters with new lifters. When I started it up, late last night, the lifters were much quieter (the engine almost sounded perfect), but I still had this odd intermitten rattle coming from the rear/left head (in the vtc/timing chain area. Then I started up this morning and I have more lifter clack coming from the middle of the front/right head. I'm fawking fed up with this VE!!

BTW, the engine only has about 90k on it and it's as clean as a whistle...

Does anyone have any suggestions?

 

Get a louder radio?









Seriously...Maybe it just needs the **** ran out of it for a while.Take it for a little spirited road trip for a few hours...Do a couple of doughnuts in front of jeffys house while your out..

 

My radio is already plenty loud and yeah I actually play it loud just to drown out that clack...lol

I've also done this PLENTY (except for the doughnuts of course)...mayby that's why it clacks...lol

 

I hate you Wayne.

Seriously though. As long as it's nothing serious, I wouldn't worry about it. Dang you replaced all the lifters?! What a pain to get at the rears.

Monitor the oil level closely is all I can recommend. That engine should be good to go. And yes, it's one of the cleaner ones I've seen. Cliffy's engine was clean too.

 

I Check the oil often and replace it with castrol gtx every 2k or so...I know it will run for a while like this I just want to get rid of this noise permanently.

Yeah, removing all of the cams is a PITA...I had fun installing the rear vtc without removing the tensioner...

 

Maybe you chain tensioner(s) are shot? You did the vtc w/ removing them? mine definatly wouldn't allow me to do that.

 

If you read the first post, I said that I replaced my chain tensioners when I did my vtc's.

 

Oh, I missed that, you unlocked them right? I don't think that you would miss something like that though if you just replaced all the lifters too.

 

yes of course I unlocked them

 

damn man that's a lot of work you've done, and to still have problems is just depressing. all the more motivation for me to dump my ve while it runs quiet (although gutless at times). friggin oVErated engine it is... dohc 30/10+ hp/tq, variable timing, and injectors are 50% easier to replace..yeah cool, but it's buggy as ****, has less power where you most often need it, wants premium gas and most importantly will eventually start sounding like a jackhammer. i'd sell it and buy a maxima with a Very Good engine.

 

I would consider getting rid of my maxima but I just like it too much (most of the time).

I'm planning on turboing the **** out of it. I might buy this engine http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=465824 and swap it in my car. Then I can build the engine that's currently in my car for FI. I also would like to buy a B13 se-r and build the heck out of it as well.

 

You want to buy my turbo VE project pieces? Just a basic kit but it has most of the parts.

 

I would not do this for anybody but I will trade my quiet VG- 5sp for your VE-5sp. I know what you are thinking 190hp for 160hp but it is quiet and slow. Never mind I think I will just ad a turbo and be happy with my under powered VG. Good luck on the noise.

 

no thanks...I'm going make some equal length 6-1 manifolds that meet above the tranny, then I'll have the downpipe go behind the tranny. I'll be using a garrett GT35R. I might use z32tt cams (aftermarket), although I would need to find some stiffer valve springs. I might eliminate the VTC's. I would use z32tt forged pistons and rods. I'm not positive that I'll do all this but, I'm pretty sure I will.

 

Y'know, I think my VE's having the same problem. . .I did the VTC groundout and got the wonky idling, so I think we have the same thing goin' on. It sucks that the car sounds like it's falling apart, and replacing all that just for a clattering that comes back. . .ugh.

This seems like one of those far off solutions, but I'd suggest checing Ebay for a new VE. They generally run for only about 695 plus shipping, so that's a new VE for under a thousand bucks or so. I'm thinking about doing the same thing with mine. Going to the quarter mile and getting kicked off the track 'cause it sounds like your car's gonna go pop doesn't help with your pride.

 

Have you grounded the vtc's? I hear this helps but have never had a VE. I have rebuilt some vtc's and the last one I did it was a little better but had other engine noise's. If it was my car I would turbo it, because the faster you go the noise's do not seem to bother you as much.

 

Have you checked your oil pressure?

 

that's what I was thinking... I was planing on checking that tomarrow.

 

Just face it Sean your car is a diesel that just happens to run on gas..

 

What do you mean when you said "has less power where you most often need it"? By the way, I have a 93 GXE with the VG engine and although it idles fine, it makes a strange rattling noise at about 2000RPM. I always wished that I had the SE model but maybe I'm better off with the GXE.

 

i just meant the vg is more stop and go friendly. it feels more responsive and punchier in the low end. i've driven several VEs so i'm not basing this on mine vs mine. the ve's are faster overall but looking at the full picture, the trade offs aren't neccesarily enough to make me perfer them over the vg. i understand why people would rather have the ve, but personally, being a little faster than a vg isn't my highest priority. that said, i have had some fun doing the old vg flyby on the freeway while i still have my ve

 

i have ve noise issues too!
it's so annoying. rebuilt vtcs and new tensioners were nice for about three months. the noise came back and has been back for about 8 months. i hate it but i'm going to rebuild the vtcs again and start running synthetic. if it makes noise still i'll look into the lifters. if there's still noise, i'll just drive it till it blows and put in a jdm motor.

 

Did you flush the motor when you rebuilt the VTCs

 

I don't really see how it could be the lifters

Is it the same clacking noise? Sounds like something is hitting/slapping/fwapping (lol) the inside of your valve cover?

VTC

If you wanted to be absolutely sure it's not the VTCs find a spare set (I know I have one, not sure if I have a second) and weld them. Or maybe try something to strengthen the springs.

One plus side about the design is if you are up to experimenting with the springs, it's still "locked" in to that 20* range so you shouldn't have a problem with valves having coffee with the pistons, but if the spring did break (say you cut 2 of them 3/4 then welded the two 3/4's together and it broke) I wouldn't try to get the car home under it's own power.


How did the base look where the spring touches? What about the splines (very top part of this picture, you can see silver on the sides)?



For making the actual springs stronger, I'm not sure how much cryotreating will do but it might be worth a shot. Aside from actually lengthening the spring (3/4 + 3/4 or say 3/4+1/2), depending on which way the assembly twists and the spring is 'wound' it might be possible to weld the spring to each end of the assembly. My biggest concern would be if the spring is too strong, it might not let the assembly move enough and you'd lose that much of the cam advancing.

It's been a while since I've seen the inside of the engine but if the exhaust cam sprockets will work on the intake cams, that would be a lighter solution. You lose the benefits of the VTCs but you'll have a lighter valvetrain.

 

The idling will work itself out, just takes some time. It's annoying but oh well

 

Having driven both consistantly back to back, lining them up, etc. The VG has no additional low end, it just doesn't have as much high end.

Driving and racing them both, they are dead even while the VE works up to 4k then it just walks away. Throw in the extra 500rpm, pushing you higher into the powerband when you hit the next gear and the VG doesn't have a chance in hell.

 

My JDM has been ticking, too. Mostly when it's cold, but sometimes randomly.

I started driving it again this week because the weather has been nice and I felt like shifting gears myself for a while (the Tundra is an AT).

I just drive the car and try to put the sound aside. Yeah, I even turn up the radio to drown it out.

Nothing else has changed with the car, it's just an annoying noise. The car runs strong, gets great mpg and I just decided I am not going to let it get to me.

The last engine ticked and ticked and ticked for years and I thought the JDM would solve that. After viewing the poll that I did, it seems like unfortunately ticking VTCs are just part of owning these cars and it's not really something to stress out about. I have an extra set to rebuild, but I just don't have the time, patience or desire to do it.

 

Lately, I've seriously been thinking about finding a wrecked 5.5 gen at an insurance auction and doing a full VQ35 swap. I think that is the only way that I'll be happy with my car. The VQ35 has so much aftermarket support, it weighs 150 lbs less than te VE, it has alot more power, and it doesn't fawking clack.

 

i never said the vg had a chance in the top end.. it's quite obvious without even racing to figure that out. i've wanted to take them both out and make a video or 2 though..

 

It doesn't clack YET. the VQ35 got VTCs and has an oil consumption issue. do a VQ30DE-K with a VQ35 crank for a VQ33DE-K

 

I wasn't implying that you did. I just think some people get the idea the VG makes more low end when in reality it just doesn't make as much top end.

It might actually make more power down low, I don't remember anymore. Racing them both, they are the exact same. toss 4 people in them... actually the VE felt stronger but meh. Basically what I'm getting at is the VG isn't really any better for day to day stuff with the low end, both engines have grunt down low.

 

iss all good. i was just basing my opinion from personal experience. it just seems to me the vg is a little more punchy from launch up to 3k. but it could just be perception. extra weight of the ve, different sound, different feel. but really, any ve vs vg post you see of mine is just me trying to justify selling my bbve5 which i know i'll regret at least a little bit everytime i see one on the road..

 

no I think I'll stick with the vq35. Before I install it, i'll tear down the motor, bore it to a 3.8L, put 11.5 to 1 comp. pistons in it, arp rod bolts, ebay cams, and probably a 350z IM (if I can make it fit). I'll have enough money because I just started a new job selling cars. I don't think a full 3.5 swap would be THAT difficult, I've already done ALOT of research...