jonmandude

iTrader: (1)

With the 3rd gen Max being nose-heavy, has anyone here done a relocation of the battery to the trunk?

I have been considering a Taylor kit, but am wondering if anyone has encountered any problems.

Josh

iTrader: (5)

I know most if not all of the Turbo'd VE guy have theirs in the trunk, so it is perfectly doable, and I havent heard any problems about it. You might check the FI forum though, it has probably been discussed there.

95turbo gxe

iTrader: (25)

I put mine in the trunk drivers side. But not unless your going turbo its not going to change any thing. Its like what 23lb? Its going to cost you a lot more in wiring and a battery holder than what its going to help you for what you are trying to do

VEvolution

It feels heavier then 23 pounds. More like 35-40

I would do it for better weight distribution

Black92GXE

iTrader: (3)

I think it would depend on if he's racing/autocrossing - daily driving has no need for that small weight distribution front to rear. Hell, just adding passengers and luggage changes the car more than relocating that battery.

VEvolution

Well you don't have to replace hood struts on a trunk

Josh

iTrader: (5)

http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....68#post5383768

See post #2

Chris Gregg

iTrader: (59)

Very easily done. I second post #2 as referenced. I would run at least a #2 guage wire straight from front to rear. You should also get a 150 amp circuit breaker (not fuses) and install at the battery in the trunk. I've had no problems starting/running my car with this breaker. Of course, I also added a 1farad capacitor under the hood as well, but I don't think it's necessary unless running a lot of stereo/electronics.

If you need extra power at the stereo for anything (I did!), then I recommend installing a distribution block at the driver's kick panel (I installed everything on the removable panel beneath the steering wheel). This gives you easy access to power for whatever you need. It was a must for my Apexi AVC-r, relays, and guages.

As far as the battery box, be very carful. 1. You need a non-serviceable/sealed battery like an Optima. 2. You need to make sure you secure it well. I had a battery in the trunk with my original stereo set up and had the box secured to the floor of the car. One hard turn and the box cracked and spilled over, including my battery, acid everywhere.

Overall, I don't know if you need to buy a specific kit to relocate the battery. Just buy 13-14ft of 2 guage wire (better to have too much!), an Optima battery, battery box, and 150amp breaker, and necessary terminals. You should need a 3ft ground wire for the battery, a + terminal for the hot wire, connectors for the breaker (x2), and a 3 way distribution block for the front (1. hot wire from trunk split to 2. starter and to 3. smaller distribution block). You will need the smaller distribution block to run the smaller guaged wire for the car's electronics....the fusable link wires that also connect to the battery. Just my 0.2 cents. You can check my cardomain page to see the set up under the hood. This method may be more expensive, but depends on the peices you buy. I'd trust this set up to any "universal" kit. Good luck!

goon9

iTrader: (13)

This on my list of things to do. I saw some battery boxes in a marine store that look Sturdy enough. Would still have a bracket bolting the battery down.

jonmandude

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for all the input guys.

To answer one question, the battery and holder weigh around 27lbs. To many that doesn't seem like much but every pound makes a difference, plus where the weight is located changes car behavior. Like new ST fsb weighs 40lbs compared to the factory 8lbs. You add 32 lbs but you add it at the very lowest point making the car more stable. Additionallly a carbon fiber hood weighs 5lbs compared to the factory (approximately) 65lbs, and that weight loss is on top. If weight placement, even that little, didn't make a difference, why would BMW put a carbon fiber roof panel in the newest M class?

Goon, I have looked at different boxes and kits. Summit sells a kit, with box and everything, for around $100. But the box is one of those inexpensive looking marine boxes. Moroso sells one that is IHRA legal that comes with almost no hardware for around $125. the best kit I have found is from Taylor. It comes with all hardware and a very nice aluminum box, it is also NHRA legal, for about $170. Price isn't a question, quality is.

My other question is about ground wire kits. They go off the battery negative terminal, but if the terminal is in the trunk, how would you do that? Any ground wire longer than 36" is pointless, so what to do?

jonmandude

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for all the input guys.

To answer one question, the battery and holder weigh around 27lbs. To many that doesn't seem like much but every pound makes a difference, plus where the weight is located changes car behavior. Like new ST fsb weighs 40lbs compared to the factory 8lbs. You add 32 lbs but you add it at the very lowest point making the car more stable. Additionallly a carbon fiber hood weighs 5lbs compared to the factory (approximately) 65lbs, and that weight loss is on top. If weight placement, even that little, didn't make a difference, why would BMW put a carbon fiber roof panel in the newest M class?

Goon, I have looked at different boxes and kits. Summit sells a kit, with box and everything, for around $100. But the box is one of those inexpensive looking marine boxes. Moroso sells one that is IHRA legal that comes with almost no hardware for around $125. the best kit I have found is from Taylor. It comes with all hardware and a very nice aluminum box, it is also NHRA legal, for about $170. Price isn't a question, quality is.

My other question is about ground wire kits. They go off the battery negative terminal, but if the terminal is in the trunk, how would you do that? Any ground wire longer than 36" is pointless, so what to do?

jonmandude

iTrader: (1)

I got an "invalid thread message"

Josh

iTrader: (5)

I can't find it now I think it must have been deleted. Chris Gregg gave a good answer though.

Matt93SE

iTrader: (44)

first question: Why do you want to move the battery?
Your answer to that will dictate my further comments.

jonmandude

iTrader: (1)

I plan on occasionally putting the car on the track when I finally finish her so I am considering weight placement and balance. I know that little improvements like weight placement can improve handling. I still want it to be streetable so reliability is still important.

I want an multi use vehicle. One with track-able performance and handling, looks that I enjoy, and can start up and drive any day. I am not into adding weight like big stereos and TV's, but I don't want to go all-out-track either.

Matt93SE

iTrader: (44)

What kind of track use?

jonmandude

iTrader: (1)

Road course. A friend of mine does a lot of track days at Blachawk Raceway with bikes and says I can use the track when he is there, a free hour here and there. You probably know how expensive track time is. Also maybe get on Elkart Lake.

Matt93SE

iTrader: (44)

just making sure you weren't trying to move weight off the front end if you were going drag racing.

jonmandude

iTrader: (1)

So what do you think? I know you make ground wire kits and understand the theory. How would you do a ground wire kit with a trunk located battery?

Matt93SE

iTrader: (44)

use the same kit, just run the large battery wire to a good chassis ground instead of the battery - terminal. in the trunk, use a section of 1/0 to ground the battery to the chassis. and try to use something more substantial than sheet metal.

jonmandude

iTrader: (1)

Thanks. That is what I was planning, but I was unsure if it would perform as well as connecting straight to battery.

Matt93SE

iTrader: (44)

It's the best you can do in that case, and it's better than not having it at all. IMO, you'll be fine.

VEvolution

Matt, you havn't brought your battery to the back, have you? Im surprised since your car saw plenty of road course action.

Matt93SE

iTrader: (44)

I never did because of all the stereo I already have back there. to put it over the rear axle will require me to redesign my amp rack, which I don't really want to do.

also, if I ever want to drag race it or autocross it, they require an external battery cutoff switch once you've relocated the battery... and drilling holes in my car is not something I really like doing.

Plus, the Max is going back to DD status and my S14 is now the track ****. not nearly as fast on the straights, but that will soon be fixed.

94 max

well you could use a BAT battery..it's what I use in my drag cars it's wt around 13 pounds....you know when adding about 10-12 foot of "0" or "00" wire for a battery box it adds weight

upr products makes a awsum battery box
www.uprproducts.com