vqmaxman

Hi, everyone Merry christmas to all...

ok long story short i was driving my car in the rain the slipped and hit the curb the (right passenger side) so the damage was minor and the car broke it's lower control arm and the hub.I went to the junkyard to get those parts now i would like do it myself and i was wondering if i could get some help with the installation like getting some instructions and some pictures or some diagram including some 123 steps and some pic on how to get the hub on thanks everyone... happy holidays..everyone..

ColombianMax

iTrader: (7)

Needed items:
-Jack/stands
-rachet (1/2 drive preferred) with 14mm,17mm,19mm,28mm (control arm), 36mm (axle nut) and maybe 15mm
-vicegrips
-pliers and needle nose pliers
-picklefork
-hammer
-PB Blaster
-17mm wrench
-something strong to tie caliper
-brake cleaner
-you will most likely need a torch
-compressor and impact gun would be perfect.
-work light

Estimated time: 30min-1:30 hour if skillful, 3+ first timer

I would recommend replacing with a new control arm/ball joint instead of using JY one unless it looks good, make sure
bushings are good. InternetAutoMart has them at great prices (I bought off him)


1. Begin by lifting car and placing stands to secure it, dont put stands on control arm (duh) and set your handbrake. Be
sure to break your nuts loose before lifting.

2.Remove rim

3.Remove your caliper by removing the 2 19mm bolts behind it and tie it on to your springs
(tip: helps if you turn steering wheel toward you)

4. remove rotor by sliding it outwards

5. remove the cotterpin using pliers/needlenose then pull the protector off and use 36mm socket to remove nut
(if you dont have impact gun, you might need long pipe/tube for torque)

6.Remove 3 ball joint nuts using 17mm or 19mm cant remember but you'll find out
Not sure if control arm will come out without removing knucle but you can try by following these steps

7.Begin removing control arm, take 28mm socket and remove biggest nut on C.A which is the farthest to the front,
and there should be like 2-3 more nuts on the control arm I believe they're 19mm

8. Once all bolts are out of C.A try sliding it out, note while sliding if a metal piece comes out of the rubber,
if so, you'll definately need a torch and vicegrips. Also make sure your JY C.A actually has that metal "tube" in the rubber

9. if control arm doesnt come out like that, then I guess you need to take knuckle out, do it by using a 17mm and the
17mm wrench on the 4 nuts holding knuckly near strut, once all that is removed your knuckle will be free but still holding
onto tierod, just get a crate of stool and set it there, make sure you loosen ball joint from CA.

10 I think that pretty much covers everything right? PB blast all bolts before putting them in again, if new control arm
doesnt slid in properly its because you actually left the metal tube on there still..pics will help out.
btw, I just noticed it you have a 98 Maxima so I dont know if its same process but oh well I just type this all up while buzzed so yea.

THIS HASNT BEEN RE-READ FOR ERRORS/TYPOS SO DO AT YOUR OWN RISK, ANYONE FEEL FREE TO CORRECT ME IF ANYTHING IS WRONG.

thatforrestkid

props on the writeup. i would have told him to get a manual even tho it is christmas

vqmaxman

Thanks for the write-up Colombian Max and the list of tools but does anyone have anything for the hub or the spindel.

THANKS
MERRY CHRISTMAS and happy holidays to all

ColombianMax

iTrader: (7)

No problem..but I dont think you need to remove the hub assembly as thats just on the knuckle itself. Lets just wait a little longer and perhaps some other org members will post some pictures of actual knuckle removal but I think if you follow those steps you should be fine

Merry Christmas people!

vqmaxman

I went out and got the breaker bar and got the needle nose pliers and i tried to take it off but i could not take it off it was to strong i even put all of my weight on it. now whats a pb blaster and a pickle fork also i saw the brake line snapped off the calper. there's so much things going on know so now could i use a impact gun know or something cheap know far as the brake line goes i might need to place a new line now!!! right need some help thanks .....

ColombianMax

iTrader: (7)

Hmm, brake line shouldn't have to be removed... the reason I said to tie the caliper to the springs was so you wouldn't have to remove the line that way you wouldn't have to bleed the brakes but looks like its too late.

PB Blaster is a lubricant to loosen rusted nuts and bolts...pickefork is to separate ball boints or tierods but I actually dont think you're gonna need it but its good to have.

vqmaxman

[QUOTE=ColombianMax]Hmm, brake line shouldn't have to be removed... the reason I said to tie the caliper to the springs was so you wouldn't have to remove the line that way you wouldn't have to bleed the brakes but looks like its too late.

PB Blaster is a lubricant to loosen rusted nuts and bolts...pickefork is to separate ball boints or tierods but I actually dont think you're gonna need it but its good to have.

yeah.. but a friend of mine took it off and just left it there and the brake line snapped and the caliper separated because the was on jack for sometime and slipped off some what thats the cause know.

ColombianMax

iTrader: (7)

so its the hard rubber hose itself that got slit and ripped off completely or the metal piece where the 10mm nut goes in on the caliper? ORR its ripped from where it goes attached onto the car itself?

vqmaxman

yes it was the hard rubber part that got cut right out of it's root

ColombianMax

iTrader: (7)

Well you're gonna have to replace that, I will suggest that you PB Blast the ends of the hose where the bolts are for a good 15 minutes so they dont break when you try to remove them. The the hose itself is betweek 15-30 bucks at the parts store.. Caliper hose should be the part name.

vqmaxman

well does the line go through the fenders then in the engine compartment or somewhere.

bvtran

iTrader: (3)

http://www.cis.syr.edu/~bvtran/car/controlArmBushings/

Check it out.

I used Noltec Poly Uranthe Bushings. The installation of the front and back bushings were pretty easy for me.

To remove the back, just use a jaw puller. To install it, just push it on with all your might.

To remove the front, just pop the new on on top like in one of the picture with only the other sleeve attached. Grab a 5lb hammer, pound it in....as the new on goes in, the older one drops right out like bird drops. No needs to use a press. These guys could withstand plenty of beating.


Now to install the control arm back on for me was a such a pain cuz 3 years ago, I live in S. Carolina apartment. Everytime I worked on my car, I had no electricity access. So I could use a dremel to cut the front *old* outer sleeve out. It got frozen stuck. I'd tried everything to remove. Burned, beaten, grippy locked plier + beaten, etc... Nothing works.... so I ended up sanding it down enough so I could muscle it in...... it took me 2 days to put back on the control arm when in fact, it only took me 2 hours to install/remove the bushings ......arghhhhh

If your older sleeve got frozen stuck like mine, just be awared so you have electrical access and a dremel handy. That should help your installation out with plenty of eases.

Good lucks

bvtran

iTrader: (3)

hey guys, I got a challenge for you.

After I installed polyuranthe bushings. My camber, caster, and toe hold itself together really sweet, well aligned, and tight.

One problem, it wasn't perfect. And the problem exists only on the left front Caster. After the alignment, I got 0.4 degree when the factory specified range of 0.5 to 2.0 degrees.

I mean, I could live with it. Only problem was my wheel would bend an extra 20 degree toward one side to drive straight. The alignment shop said my tires should be alright, and they were right. After 3 years, I got pretty consistent tires wears. So, I'm cool with it. It would be nicer if I could get my wheel straighten though.

Any ideas what could be the problem? And how should I go about fixing it?

bvtran

iTrader: (3)

I noticed my ST stabilizer bar attached to the front right control arm way too tight and slight crooked. Could that be the problem? A new alignment isn't cheap, they run $60 here in LA. But the problem existed on the left side.... hum strange, any comments?

ColombianMax

iTrader: (7)

lol nice way to postwhore every 5-10 min! Personally its easier to change the control arms rather than the bushings, not to mention that its probably cheaper as well, beside he broke his control arm (probably bent it)

As for your alignment, do you have anything bent on your suspesion?

oh and for the record, 60 bucks for an aligment is CHEAP. Cheapest you'll find here that is decent cost 79.99+

vqmaxman

yea that seams like popular sight that's what happend to the otherside of the car my friend installed everything and it was crooked and messing the alignment because he imstalled it too tight

vqmaxman

The only brand name that i found was nissan on the calper but nothing on the brake line.

DanNY

iTrader: (14)

just pick up a rubber brake line for that one caliper. i'm sure there's aftermarket brands out there....if you don't go with nissan OEM hose. also use a flared wrench when working with the lines.

how bad is your damage? you're asking us to post pics...can you post one of the damage so we can figure out where you're at and maybe point you to the right direction?

vqmaxman

ok this where i am at now i went to the advance auto part store too get the rubber hose of any kind that has abs and i have to wait to get them in tommorow. I also bought the pb blaster and the breaker bar but still no luck.
so here what i can norrow it down to know i tried to get the 32 mm long exstion one but the don't they don't have one so i would have to parobbly go with a impact gun or something because these things are expensive.

and yes the problem is very much complicated know i will put pics asap.

DanNY

iTrader: (14)

ok you know you're getting the 32mm socket right?...not extension.

just noticed that you have a 4th gen...not sure the 3rd gen hardware is the same.

vqmaxman

yeah but the 4th gen some what different then the 3rd gen.

I also asked my bro's friend if i can borrow some of the shop tools and his dad is a mech so i will try to borrow his tools and if it's possible i will try to tell him to help me out here but i would like to try this myself and i will post pics and some results later.

DanNY

iTrader: (14)

the suspension is pretty much the same but the hardware sizes may be different from 3rd to 4th gen....best to post in the 4th gen section to get the correct info.

vqmaxman

Hi, everyone i hope you all had a Happy year...

so here the update... so i couldn't have anything to my car done yet because it was raining here for 3 days and my mechanic who was going to give me the tools is just BS-ing so i will buy the impact wrench or the impact gun myself but those things are expensive untill then this is what i did. I had time to just put the rubber hose back on the capiler and it looks clean so i will post some pics when i have the time because i have to work alot and there's hardly any time to do any work on the car now so i will check back soon.

ColombianMax

iTrader: (7)

You do have an air compressor right? if not then the impact wrench and gun wont work unless you get electric. Now did you replace the rubber caliper hose or did you somehow tried fixing it

vqmaxman

I took care of the rubber hose i attached it to the caliper and i put the caliper in the trunk for know. I found this impact gun for $160.00 on a sears website but it shows a pic just a gun and has no mentioning of the air compress or hose so i beleve it's battery operated and it can produce 600lb tq psi.

ColombianMax

iTrader: (7)

dude, most impact guns are powered by AIR unless otherwise mentioned. 600PSI is too much for battery operated if you ask me. Beside if it was battery operated it'd be at least 400 bucks. Do you have AOL Instant Messenger or MSN?

vqmaxman

well i don't have msn or aim but i have an email address with verizon.

vqmaxman

ok, so finally I took time off to work on the car yesterday and today I had bought myself a blow torch and hoped this would have at least expand the bolt that locks on the spindel but after puting about 5+freaking hours hoping that i would crack the bolt or atleast get it hot enough to torque it off with the tq wrench but no luck. everytime i have some movement i thought that i have actual loosened it but i noticed the passenger side wheel would slip and move evertime i get any kinds of movements so know the torque wrench and the breaker bar finally broke. I guess i have to buy myself an impact gun power operating perferred of course. now i saw this power operating impact gun for almost $300.00 but the torque production is about 525lb tq.

bvtran

iTrader: (3)

urgh... here we go again... I don't recommend playing with fire. Last time I did it, I almost set my whole car on FIRE!!! YIKE!!

please do yourself a favor by using a dremel like device. Cut it off!!!

vqmaxman

I did use the Dremel divice it grips but everytime i would move the spidel the wheel on the (driver's side) would slip and move.

Is there any kind of divice that i could use to lock up the other wheel from moving so i can probley make it a little easier or i could probley brake it off.

DanNY

iTrader: (14)

do yourself a favor...put the tire back on to the car..lower the car on to the ground...even if you have a busted control arm you should still be able to lower the car with the tire on.

then get a the correct socket, the correct extension, (i would guess) a 1/2 rachet or breaker bar, and a 4-5 ft pipe that you can slip over the handle of the rachet.

with a 4-5 ft steel pipe as the rachet extension you should be able to loosen that nut in the middle of the hub. the car's weight is on the car will prevent the wheels from moving. once it's loosened then jack the car up and take the wheel off and finish taking the nut off.

don't grind, dremel, torch the hub. with the torch you probably killed the wheel bearing.

ColombianMax

iTrader: (7)

dude,torque wrench is to set x amount of torque on a nut not to break em loose, for that you'll need a breaker bar as you previously mentioned, just try to put your jack's pipe on it for leverage. I had to jump on it to break it loose and didnt have to use an impact gun. Just have someone help you. go to like home depot and buy a big long pipe (something for like a chainlink fence) and it'll be really long and strong to get the job done.

And dont cut the anything unless you know how to replace it and you have the replacement part with you.

vqmaxman

Hi, everyone thanks for the replys

I have used my breaker bar and the jack bar and my brother to help still no luck the breaker bar broke. I also tried jumping on it but still no luck or everytime i feel something moves the driver side wheels would move.

I also have tried taking it off with the wheel off and on and the car off the jack to the floor.

I will still try but does anyone know if there's any kind of object to hold the wheel down. I have bricks but thats not good enough or some kind of wheel clamps. I will try agian with car on the ground again wish me some some luck thanks.

bvtran

iTrader: (3)

ah... sorry I mis-read your question. Those spindle nuts you referred are called "axle nuts". They're also the largest nuts on the car, we had one on each wheel and toughest to get off. I believe they're on at around 160 to 180 fb lbs. I'm too lazy to look it up but your Haynes / Chilton/ FSM should have it.

In that case, NO you can't use a dremel. I thought you referred to the inner sleeve of the lower control arm bush.

Anyway, to remove that axle nut. 2 methods are avaliable:

(1) Muscle method
Put back on the wheels and drop it back down. Using a 5 feet long pipe, attach it to your braker bar. Slap on your 36mm and muscle it out... argh... be careful not to strip your thread.

(2) Impact Wrench (Recommended)
NO you don't need a 500fb lb monster air wrench to do it. That's overkill. An electric will do it. I did it with just a 250ft lbs max cord and 190ft lbs max wireless. Both works fine, just lube them with pb blaster as you go along. This method will take you about 5 - 9 mins to remove per side. Just rock it forward and backward. For every 5 seconds forward, you stay on backward 30seconds or so..... Also, with this method, you need to leave the wheels on and car on jackstands. Don't worry about locking the spindles, no way it's gonna spin if you use impact wrench.

You can get that electric impact wrench for around $50 shipped off ebay like this one:
http://cgi.ebay.com/Electric-1-2-Imp...QQcmdZViewItem

I used the one from Harbor Freight, they're all made by the same OEM man... just get the cheapest one you can find. They all the same.


Lastly, don't forget to remove the cotton pin first or it'll get stuck.

Man... if I were you, just run over to home depot and buy their deWalt electric impact wrench, they're the same as ebay/hf, remove your nuts then return it to get your money back.

bvtran

iTrader: (3)

actually, those Gorilla lug wrenches are much better to use than breaker cuz they tilt at an angle.... but I would recommend that you use method 2 above cuz if you strip your thread, then you'll be really screwed.

vqmaxman

I just bought me an Ampro tq wrench and i tried to use it and see if anything happen nope the tq wrench gave out not even an tq wrench ranging from 10-150 lb ft tq cold do it either. I will by the breaker bar use the jack's levers to move but i dought that will do anything i all reaady tryed that so not that then i will get the gun from Home depot.

bvtran

iTrader: (3)

arghhh... DON'T use a torque wrench for removal or you'll damage its reading ability!!!!

bvtran

iTrader: (3)

dude, seriously if really want to get those nuts out right now...use my method 2 above.. seriously, you still got a whole mountain of works need to be done. Right now, you're still on stage 1. Just get it over with man. I'm not lying to you. I've been there and done it many times before.

bvtran

iTrader: (3)

and please stop blow torching the spindle or you'll dry up your wheel bearing greases.... then you'll get another mountain of works and $$$ deal with!!!.