possible new source for exhaust studs
possible new source for exhaust studs
been shopping for a while for exhasut studs and through most fo the searches on this board i don't recall anyone mentioning a supply house like grainger....soooo......
http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/wwg...mId=1613557978
if the link doesn't work, just go to www.grainger.com and select fasteners, then "threaded rod and studs" and spec out an M8 x 1.25 50mm...the stainless one goes for less than $2 a piece.
the price drops to less than half of that if you spec out a hex head bolt!!!
sorry if this is a repost
http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/wwg...mId=1613557978
if the link doesn't work, just go to www.grainger.com and select fasteners, then "threaded rod and studs" and spec out an M8 x 1.25 50mm...the stainless one goes for less than $2 a piece.
the price drops to less than half of that if you spec out a hex head bolt!!!
sorry if this is a repost
Guest
Posts: n/a
I thought it was the Z32 (90-96) that were stronger and were the only ones that worked? Plus I think all the VG studs have been superseded (sp) by now any way.
They are made of a much better material and thus wont break. I wouldn't trust any other stud, except a 10mm that was properly tapped out. Id just call the dealer and ask for them, shouldn't be an issue.
~Alex
They are made of a much better material and thus wont break. I wouldn't trust any other stud, except a 10mm that was properly tapped out. Id just call the dealer and ask for them, shouldn't be an issue.
~Alex
Info on the studs and replacement...
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=468282
http://forums.maxima.org/oldthread.php?t=392645
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=468282
http://forums.maxima.org/oldthread.php?t=392645
Last edited by Greeny; May 8, 2009 at 06:35 AM.
Senior Member
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 157
Thanks for the information, my rear manifold has a minor tick, not bad at all, when it gets warm you don't even hear it, later down the road if it gets loud, I will tackle that job, till then, it's not a problem at all.....
Originally Posted by MyGreenMax94
Info on the studs and replacement...
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=468282
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=392645
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=468282
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=392645
i've read through those threads during some of my research but still couldn't find any quantification re why they are better and in what way they are stronger.
so now here's the rub, is the point ot get the strongest replacement available (ARPs) or the least expensive (grainger). since no one seems to have specs on the nissan parts, it's a bit difficult to make this call. seems like lots of trouble for otherwise benign hardware - then again, i don't want to do this job again and i don't want to pay more than i have to
Originally Posted by DaWifey's90
been shopping for a while for exhasut studs and through most fo the searches on this board i don't recall anyone mentioning a supply house like grainger....soooo......
http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/wwg...mId=1613557978
if the link doesn't work, just go to www.grainger.com and select fasteners, then "threaded rod and studs" and spec out an M8 x 1.25 50mm...the stainless one goes for less than $2 a piece.
the price drops to less than half of that if you spec out a hex head bolt!!!
sorry if this is a repost
http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/wwg...mId=1613557978
if the link doesn't work, just go to www.grainger.com and select fasteners, then "threaded rod and studs" and spec out an M8 x 1.25 50mm...the stainless one goes for less than $2 a piece.
the price drops to less than half of that if you spec out a hex head bolt!!!
sorry if this is a repost
man if I were you I wouldn't make a big deal out of it man. If it broke and your engine is mad old, get on ebay get a new manifold....just go the shop and have them frigging weld the whole crap on for around $50-100 or have a friend with a welder do it for you for free.
dude, dont even bother going anywhere other than the dealer and dont bother asking for 300zx studs like GREENY said (sorry greeny just wanted to pick on ya) Just ask for normal maxima studs, z31 studs are the same as the maximas as nissan superceeded (spelling) them due to their weak design.
Here's what I got from the dealer for my 1993 GXE, I believe they're the same as yours and notice how they say TURBO on them as it is. I requested for the parts guy (member from Chicago Maxima Club) at the dealer to look up studs for 300zx turbo and they're the same part number.
Here's what I got from the dealer for my 1993 GXE, I believe they're the same as yours and notice how they say TURBO on them as it is. I requested for the parts guy (member from Chicago Maxima Club) at the dealer to look up studs for 300zx turbo and they're the same part number.
Originally Posted by ColombianMax
dude, dont even bother going anywhere other than the dealer and dont bother asking for 300zx studs like GREENY said (sorry greeny just wanted to pick on ya) Just ask for normal maxima studs, z31 studs are the same as the maximas as nissan superceeded (spelling) them due to their weak design.
Here's what I got from the dealer for my 1993 GXE, I believe they're the same as yours and notice how they say TURBO on them as it is. I requested for the parts guy (member from Chicago Maxima Club) at the dealer to look up studs for 300zx turbo and they're the same part number.
[IMG]http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c42/ColombianMax/12-14-06_1209.jpg[/IMG
Here's what I got from the dealer for my 1993 GXE, I believe they're the same as yours and notice how they say TURBO on them as it is. I requested for the parts guy (member from Chicago Maxima Club) at the dealer to look up studs for 300zx turbo and they're the same part number.
[IMG]http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c42/ColombianMax/12-14-06_1209.jpg[/IMG
It still might be a good idea to be sure, since some dealers might have NOS (new old stock) on hand with the older version. Jeff did mine just two years ago and I know there were still two part numbers.
Originally Posted by Cliff Clavin
some dealers might have NOS
if i do go the right angle drill route and try this nightmare repair myself, is it possible to do so without removing the manifold?
the broken bolts seem to be only on the tranny side of the motor. i figure if i don't try to remove the bolts that aren't broken i don't have to risk breaking them. i know there may be gasket issues but those matters notwithstanding, is this a feasible approach?
the broken bolts seem to be only on the tranny side of the motor. i figure if i don't try to remove the bolts that aren't broken i don't have to risk breaking them. i know there may be gasket issues but those matters notwithstanding, is this a feasible approach?
Originally Posted by DaWifey's90
if i do go the right angle drill route and try this nightmare repair myself, is it possible to do so without removing the manifold?
the broken bolts seem to be only on the tranny side of the motor. i figure if i don't try to remove the bolts that aren't broken i don't have to risk breaking them. i know there may be gasket issues but those matters notwithstanding, is this a feasible approach?
the broken bolts seem to be only on the tranny side of the motor. i figure if i don't try to remove the bolts that aren't broken i don't have to risk breaking them. i know there may be gasket issues but those matters notwithstanding, is this a feasible approach?
Originally Posted by MyGreenMax94
Just take the time to remove the manifold,in the end it will probably save you time..
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 627
FYI - So you all know, the new studs can break too.
I replaced mine at 75K (with the TURBO studs), then again at 179K miles (TURBO studs again).
It's probably not much of an issue for most people as I can't imagine most people on this forum driving their 3rd gen for another 100K miles.
I replaced mine at 75K (with the TURBO studs), then again at 179K miles (TURBO studs again).
It's probably not much of an issue for most people as I can't imagine most people on this forum driving their 3rd gen for another 100K miles.
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 237
From: Sydney, Australia
Originally Posted by Alex_V
I thought it was the Z32 (90-96) that were stronger and were the only ones that worked? Plus I think all the VG studs have been superseded (sp) by now any way.
~Alex
~Alex
Originally Posted by bvtran
man if I were you I wouldn't make a big deal out of it man. If it broke and your engine is mad old, get on ebay get a new manifold....just go the shop and have them frigging weld the whole crap on for around $50-100 or have a friend with a welder do it for you for free.
kinda tough to weld alum to cast iron..no?
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
My Coffee
New Member Introductions
15
Jun 6, 2017 02:01 PM