installing clutch for 5speed swap
#41
Originally Posted by Nmax92
i already got the 5 speed axles. I'm gonna get them put on monday coming. (keeping my fingers crossed)
MyGreenMax94 - do you recall if how many harnesses are supposed to be connected after the swap.
I did the rewire so the car can start and the reverse lights. and for the cruise control. am I missing anything?
MyGreenMax94 - do you recall if how many harnesses are supposed to be connected after the swap.
I did the rewire so the car can start and the reverse lights. and for the cruise control. am I missing anything?
![Smilie](https://maxima.org/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
#47
Originally Posted by Nmax92
if so can anyone explain why the axles are not fitting flush with the seal?
sometimes you have to
![Wiggle](https://maxima.org/forums/images/smilies/wiggle.gif)
maybe you have the wrong seal?
#48
The seal I got got from the nissan dealer. Maybe your right, the axles maybe wrong for the car. tomorrow I'm going to put in the new axles I bought to fit the trans. I guess I have to cross my fingers.
#49
Ok fellas. here is the deal. I put in the new axles today, but I'm still getting a slight leak. I put in new seals also. I'll see what happens over the next few days.
Next, I'm getting a rubbing feeling from the front when I'm driving. It goes away when I depress the clutch pedal about 3/4 the way.
I'm thinking the distance of the pedal in relationship to the firewall pedal to be adjusted by the way of bringing the clutch pedal bracket farther away from the firewall. I would have adjusted it today, but its too damn cold in NYC.
Could I be right about the adjustment?. this is definitely a learning experience......never again. LOL!!
Next, I'm getting a rubbing feeling from the front when I'm driving. It goes away when I depress the clutch pedal about 3/4 the way.
I'm thinking the distance of the pedal in relationship to the firewall pedal to be adjusted by the way of bringing the clutch pedal bracket farther away from the firewall. I would have adjusted it today, but its too damn cold in NYC.
Could I be right about the adjustment?. this is definitely a learning experience......never again. LOL!!
#50
Originally Posted by therealgoon9
is this it?
![](https://www.dropshots.com/photos/182639/20070131/073546.jpg)
![](https://www.dropshots.com/photos/182639/20070131/073546.jpg)
As for the axle seals leaking, the passenger side had a bad leak at first (even after installing new seals), pulled it and replaced the seal again, this time there is still a small leak, kind of a nuisance. Take the old seals with you to the dealer when ordering replacements, this eleminates any confusion.
When mounting the clutch pedal (title of thread), I advise reinforcing the firewall. I didn't at first and used stacks of washers as spacers. About a year later my firewall cracked and I had to remove the pedal and sandwich a piece of sheet metal in between.
#56
Originally Posted by Nmax92
Maxitech - How much space do you think I need in between the pedal bracket and the firewall? I have about 1 1/4".
And instead of changing the brake pedal just take a sawzall to the current one.
Also, what are you using for a spacer?
#58
Originally Posted by Nmax92
Alex is right. its the pilot bearing. my problem is I have no clue where it goes. It doesn't even fit in the center of the flywheel. any idea guys?
#59
update fellas - remember the trans fluid leak problem I have been getting?......I'm still having it! G-damn it! I bought new seals too.
I need a little confirmation here. when I was taking out the old seal on the trans I looked into the opening and noticed a bar that seems to be in the middle of the trans at about a 30 degree angle. Is that bar supposed to be situated like that?
i have a feeling that bar is stopping the axles from seating flush with the trans in turn causing the leak. Could I be right?
I need a little confirmation here. when I was taking out the old seal on the trans I looked into the opening and noticed a bar that seems to be in the middle of the trans at about a 30 degree angle. Is that bar supposed to be situated like that?
i have a feeling that bar is stopping the axles from seating flush with the trans in turn causing the leak. Could I be right?
#61
Originally Posted by Nmax92
update fellas - remember the trans fluid leak problem I have been getting?......I'm still having it! G-damn it! I bought new seals too.
I need a little confirmation here. when I was taking out the old seal on the trans I looked into the opening and noticed a bar that seems to be in the middle of the trans at about a 30 degree angle. Is that bar supposed to be situated like that?
i have a feeling that bar is stopping the axles from seating flush with the trans in turn causing the leak. Could I be right?
I need a little confirmation here. when I was taking out the old seal on the trans I looked into the opening and noticed a bar that seems to be in the middle of the trans at about a 30 degree angle. Is that bar supposed to be situated like that?
i have a feeling that bar is stopping the axles from seating flush with the trans in turn causing the leak. Could I be right?
#62
Originally Posted by Nmax92
update fellas - remember the trans fluid leak problem I have been getting?......I'm still having it! G-damn it! I bought new seals too.
I need a little confirmation here. when I was taking out the old seal on the trans I looked into the opening and noticed a bar that seems to be in the middle of the trans at about a 30 degree angle. Is that bar supposed to be situated like that?
i have a feeling that bar is stopping the axles from seating flush with the trans in turn causing the leak. Could I be right?
I need a little confirmation here. when I was taking out the old seal on the trans I looked into the opening and noticed a bar that seems to be in the middle of the trans at about a 30 degree angle. Is that bar supposed to be situated like that?
i have a feeling that bar is stopping the axles from seating flush with the trans in turn causing the leak. Could I be right?
NMax, I had the exact problem and resolved the issue after the 3rd attempt. 2nd and 3rd times were OEM seals.The seals are EASY to pinch so be extremely careful.I used some Indian head gasket sealer (sold in Auto Zone) on the seal and I bel. thats what did the trick .The sealer dries quickly and if i's not in fast enough, youre gonna be in problems.
Part of the problem was the seal but I think the real problem was that the axle wasn’t locking inside the tranny. It felt locked but would slip out if it was pulled hard enough. That problem was resolved by trying 3 different sizes of Nissan C clips on inner part of the axle. If the C clip doesnt have enough tension it wont open and lock the axle. If it's too big then it wont work.
I lubed the space a tiny bit to hold the C Clip in with Multimpurpose grease.
I noticed that there was a specific spot where the axle would go in with with minimal effort.I scribed a mark (kinda like an alignment thing) and was able to remove and replace the axle several times without ANY problems using this mark.I dont know if they are all like that or if it was my imagination. (I seem to recall there was also a tiny indentation on the axle which is where my mark actually was)
I spent about 9 plus hrs and removed the entire setup and redid it about 6 times without any power tools. Each time I thought it was fixed but it wasnt, so set ample time aside to complete this task. I used a crate to support the entire rotor/strut setup,attached a hook and rope to the strut thingy and tied it to the rear of my car otherwise it gets in the way of removing and replacing the axle (unless you have someone to assist). If you do this be sure to put a cloth against the rope otherwise it's gonna brace your car and damage the paint.
(N.B I was advised by my mechanic about using the grease and he gave me the OEM C clips. Another mechanic told me about using the Indian head and said he always uses it for axle seals).
Final check: Bolt everything up(minus wheel) and leave the car on the jackstands (MAKE SURE ITS SECURE). Drive it through LOW speeds/RPM using all the gears for a few minutes to ensure its not leaking AND PRAY.Check for leakages AFTER THE ENGINE IS SHUT OFF.fINALLY there is also a ton of info. archived on the site regarding that problem. Axle specs. seals different methods etc.
#64
Originally Posted by maxitech
Pics, or at least a description of the indian head seal puller, Bob?
http://www.permatex.com/documents/td...tive/20539.pdf
http://www.favoritehardware.com/auto...o-1419010.html
#65
Brudda Bob - that is EXACTLY what is happening to me! The first set of seals I used were from Nissan, the second set are from autozone. do you know the exact size of the c clip?
So to recap, your saying to get a small enough C clip that would lock the axle in place and the sealer would go on the side of the seal that makes contact with the tranny. I'm sorry about that 9hr job man, I hope it wouldn't take that long for me. Thanks for the info, wish me luck
So to recap, your saying to get a small enough C clip that would lock the axle in place and the sealer would go on the side of the seal that makes contact with the tranny. I'm sorry about that 9hr job man, I hope it wouldn't take that long for me. Thanks for the info, wish me luck
#66
Originally Posted by Nmax92
Brudda Bob - that is EXACTLY what is happening to me! The first set of seals I used were from Nissan, the second set are from autozone. do you know the exact size of the c clip?
So to recap, your saying to get a small enough C clip that would lock the axle in place and the sealer would go on the side of the seal that makes contact with the tranny. I'm sorry about that 9hr job man, I hope it wouldn't take that long for me. Thanks for the info, wish me luck
So to recap, your saying to get a small enough C clip that would lock the axle in place and the sealer would go on the side of the seal that makes contact with the tranny. I'm sorry about that 9hr job man, I hope it wouldn't take that long for me. Thanks for the info, wish me luck
Do the easiest of the two or lets assume the seal is ok.
Make sure that the axle is locking 100% the way it's supposed to.
You can determine this by gently tugging on it on it after the installation.
If it slides out with minimal force then it isnt locking.
Dont know the size of the clip because the bag was discarded (the diff. in the sizes were microscopic). They were OEM clips and it had several sizes. My axle is for the VE5 LSD/ABS so it's different from yours which I bel. is the VG. Also, if you have the CORRECT size and it doesnt have enough tension it WONT lock. I had to go thru each clip and tried them about 4 times each. They all SEEMED to work but didnt.Be sure you lubricate the GROOVE on the axle with grease.
Be careful about using the Indian head because it dries really fast.Just rub a thin layer onto the inner part of the tranny where the seal goes.
I dont know if it's possible to insert the C clip into the tranny BEFORE the axle. You can try this and then slide the axle in, the most important thing is for it to LOCK. Doesnt make much sense this way but sometimes one has to try the unconventional method.
The 1st time 3 of us tried to get the axle in for about 2 hrs without any luck (diff. time from my 9 hr. ordeal). We later discovered that the previous C clip was stuck inside the tranny and with the additional clip on the axle...well it was like fitting a square peg in a round hole.
Good luck!!!
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