lock Problem!!
lock Problem!!
ok..i don't no if anyone here ever had this problem but my power lock wont work...randomly it will work but other times it won't lock or unlock..so i have to lock the doors myself..all 4..im pretty much a newbi here..but i can't find out whats the problem..it maybe could be a electrical problem..im not sure..when you press the button to lock it or unluck it. it makes a noise..i think it's coming from the gauge cluster dashboard..whuich you could here a click sound everytime you press on the bottom..this noise only comes on when the PowerLock doesn't work...any help would be appreaciated..it gets very annoying sometimes....ohh yeah..this happens on my 93 se ve5..
meant door lock timer. it should be under the steering wheel, little black box. tcu controls wipers, security, ect.. i'll get a pic here in a second of the location of the door lock timer
sometimes the lock sensors and switches in the doors will act up as well but since all 4 of your locks are affected, and you're hearing the clicking sound, you can bet on the door lock timer.
What I meant is that resoldering the joints on the circuit board can fix it, but when I did that on my ve, it only worked temporarily which is kind of strange but true. if fresh joints fixed it, i would assume it would be permanant, but it wasn't.
No problem, I have a spare if you're interested. I got it awhile back figuring i'd need it, but it seems the 89-91's use the a different unit (digital entry) located on the passenger side (no matter if it's a gxe or not), pre 92's don't even have this black timer underneath the steering wheel. so even if my door locks go funky, i'll have to find a spare digi box, not this black box that your ve needs. I'm assuming that they deintegrated the timer from the digi unit because it'd be cheaper to replace
but anyway, just shoot me a pm if you're interested in the timer.
but anyway, just shoot me a pm if you're interested in the timer.
I'm having the same problem. Off and on, when I unlock the door (especially the passenger side, but lately the driver's side too), the doors will unlock and quickly lock again. Only by working it again and again will I eventually be able to get into the car. There have been times also where the power locks don't work at all, meaning I have to reach over to the other doors and manually unlock or lock them. I'm glad I read this, and a previous post on the subject from searching the archives, before I went to Ebay to bid on the lock actuator that fits inside of the door. I will check on this lock timer thing in the dash under the steering wheel.
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 702
From: Bellevue, WA
Poltergiest Locks
Here's the link that explains the timer resolder procedure.
http://www.thewardrops.com/maxima/
Also, I had the same Unlock-Lock bounce problem mentioned in the last comment (especially when it was cold and wet) and I think I've cured it. ( I've only tried it a few times since the repair)
I've disassembled the door trim panel and removed the white lock actuator box linked to the door lock , disassembled it, cleaned and relubricated the contacts and put it back, with a smear of grease around the cover to seal it against moisture. Getting out that actuator was not easy, as it's inside the door, at the bottom, rear corner and requires unhooking the link and unscrewing it from the inside of the door (a mirror helps). If you disassemble the actuator, mark the gears and take pictures to get it back together correctly. The was lots of extra grease in the box, so I just spread it around to the gears and contacts. There's one of these attached to both front door keylocks. I also drained and sealed the "U" shaped wire protecting tubes on the connections. When I took out the actuator out I noticed these tubes filled with water, since they sit with the openings up in the door with water draining down. Perhaps sitting in this water the wire insulation deteriorates and there's random shorts between them? Hope this helps.
http://www.thewardrops.com/maxima/
Also, I had the same Unlock-Lock bounce problem mentioned in the last comment (especially when it was cold and wet) and I think I've cured it. ( I've only tried it a few times since the repair)
I've disassembled the door trim panel and removed the white lock actuator box linked to the door lock , disassembled it, cleaned and relubricated the contacts and put it back, with a smear of grease around the cover to seal it against moisture. Getting out that actuator was not easy, as it's inside the door, at the bottom, rear corner and requires unhooking the link and unscrewing it from the inside of the door (a mirror helps). If you disassemble the actuator, mark the gears and take pictures to get it back together correctly. The was lots of extra grease in the box, so I just spread it around to the gears and contacts. There's one of these attached to both front door keylocks. I also drained and sealed the "U" shaped wire protecting tubes on the connections. When I took out the actuator out I noticed these tubes filled with water, since they sit with the openings up in the door with water draining down. Perhaps sitting in this water the wire insulation deteriorates and there's random shorts between them? Hope this helps.
when you find the door lock timer grab the wires to the timer
and pull up to the steering wheel. Hold there and try using the power locks.
If it works then there is no need to solder, I just used a hair thingy to hold the wires up where it makes good contact. A good rubber band would
probally work better but the hair thing is all I had. I've had no problems with it since.
and pull up to the steering wheel. Hold there and try using the power locks.
If it works then there is no need to solder, I just used a hair thingy to hold the wires up where it makes good contact. A good rubber band would
probally work better but the hair thing is all I had. I've had no problems with it since.
Originally Posted by slickblack94
when you find the door lock timer grab the wires to the timer
and pull up to the steering wheel. Hold there and try using the power locks.
If it works then there is no need to solder, I just used a hair thingy to hold the wires up where it makes good contact. A good rubber band would
probally work better but the hair thing is all I had. I've had no problems with it since.
and pull up to the steering wheel. Hold there and try using the power locks.
If it works then there is no need to solder, I just used a hair thingy to hold the wires up where it makes good contact. A good rubber band would
probally work better but the hair thing is all I had. I've had no problems with it since.
Originally Posted by Hectic
No problem, I have a spare if you're interested. I got it awhile back figuring i'd need it, but it seems the 89-91's use the a different unit (digital entry) located on the passenger side (no matter if it's a gxe or not), pre 92's don't even have this black timer underneath the steering wheel. so even if my door locks go funky, i'll have to find a spare digi box, not this black box that your ve needs. I'm assuming that they deintegrated the timer from the digi unit because it'd be cheaper to replace
but anyway, just shoot me a pm if you're interested in the timer.
but anyway, just shoot me a pm if you're interested in the timer.
All see if i need it..if i do i'll let you knoe....
it is... this is the same problem most of us here has had.
first thing is finding the the timer in the diagram above.
I found taking the panel off under the steering wheel makes it real
easy to get to the door lock timer.
first thing is finding the the timer in the diagram above.
I found taking the panel off under the steering wheel makes it real
easy to get to the door lock timer.
alot of people here had to solder but mine just needed the
wire harness pushed in more to make connection. What I
would do is take off that panel and find the timer, It's about
7-10 screws with one on the side,and then push the plug
all the way in while pushing power lock button. If that works
then find a way to keep the wires where it works and be done with
it. If that dont work then you'll need to solder it. Someone here has
a write up on how to do this.
wire harness pushed in more to make connection. What I
would do is take off that panel and find the timer, It's about
7-10 screws with one on the side,and then push the plug
all the way in while pushing power lock button. If that works
then find a way to keep the wires where it works and be done with
it. If that dont work then you'll need to solder it. Someone here has
a write up on how to do this.
if you need to solder check here....http://www.thewardrops.com/maxima/
Newbie - Just Registered
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 4
I did the solder fix and I'm not terribly handy.
Just follow the solder writeup on the link above. It's pretty simple once you find the loose bit of solder that needs fixing. And if you're nervous about the soldering, get a junk circuit board to practice on (that's what I did).
Good Luck.
Just follow the solder writeup on the link above. It's pretty simple once you find the loose bit of solder that needs fixing. And if you're nervous about the soldering, get a junk circuit board to practice on (that's what I did).
Good Luck.
Hey I've been having issues with the doorlocks at times as well, last time I took the plastic cover off from under the steering wheel and and made sure it was connected securely and bam after pressing it in, it all worked normal for a while until just couple days ago so not it works most of the time but will play with you from time to time.
I think if I do what slickblack94 did, my timer would be fine.
I think if I do what slickblack94 did, my timer would be fine.
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Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 1
Originally Posted by Hectic
meant door lock timer. it should be under the steering wheel, little black box. tcu controls wipers, security, ect.. i'll get a pic here in a second of the location of the door lock timer
Originally Posted by Dj1ne
Ive had the same problems with my door locks...also you say here it also controls security? the one day i unlocked the car and the stock alarm kept going off so i pulled the horn fuse...all was good till i tryed to start the car...it wouldnt start up... so i pulled the electron batt. fuse and it started up... im just wondering if the lock timer also has something to do with my alarm problem..
a malfunctioning power lock system can cause problems with the alarm, but the alarm can also cause problems by itself.
clear as mud right?
Originally Posted by Dj1ne
Ive had the same problems with my door locks...also you say here it also controls security? the one day i unlocked the car and the stock alarm kept going off so i pulled the horn fuse...all was good till i tryed to start the car...it wouldnt start up... so i pulled the electron batt. fuse and it started up... im just wondering if the lock timer also has something to do with my alarm problem..
Newbie - Just Registered
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 3
Help?!? Maybe the black box won't let my new maxima start?
Greetings-
I am replying to this thread because it seems to come closest to the issue we are dealing with on my '91 Nissan Maxima. We have had the car for less than a week - bought it this past Monday morning and my husband had the day off and was going to try to get to the bottom of the problem of the pulsing dash lights and headlights - he is thinking it is a bad ground.
He was going to warm up the car for me, started it up, left my seat in the position I prefer and when he went to get out he tilted the steering column up to ease his departure and it shut the car off and completely down. The only things that gets power now are the headlights and dome lights and the little security light that has been flashing while the car was running is now flashing all the time.
While it may be a stretch could it have anything to do with the horn fuse or that little black box that has been made reference to?
Any and all ideas or suggestions would be genuinely appreciated. This is my third Nissan, my first Maxima - previously had a Sentra wagon and a Nissan NX 2000, and I have been without wheels since July of 06 and I am almost sick with disappointment that I am out of commission less than a week after I acquired the car. I want to drive my Maxima.
Thank you for whatever assistance you may be able to provide.
peace,
-jini
I am replying to this thread because it seems to come closest to the issue we are dealing with on my '91 Nissan Maxima. We have had the car for less than a week - bought it this past Monday morning and my husband had the day off and was going to try to get to the bottom of the problem of the pulsing dash lights and headlights - he is thinking it is a bad ground.
He was going to warm up the car for me, started it up, left my seat in the position I prefer and when he went to get out he tilted the steering column up to ease his departure and it shut the car off and completely down. The only things that gets power now are the headlights and dome lights and the little security light that has been flashing while the car was running is now flashing all the time.
While it may be a stretch could it have anything to do with the horn fuse or that little black box that has been made reference to?
Any and all ideas or suggestions would be genuinely appreciated. This is my third Nissan, my first Maxima - previously had a Sentra wagon and a Nissan NX 2000, and I have been without wheels since July of 06 and I am almost sick with disappointment that I am out of commission less than a week after I acquired the car. I want to drive my Maxima.
Thank you for whatever assistance you may be able to provide.
peace,
-jini
Originally Posted by jini
Greetings-
I am replying to this thread because it seems to come closest to the issue we are dealing with on my '91 Nissan Maxima. We have had the car for less than a week - bought it this past Monday morning and my husband had the day off and was going to try to get to the bottom of the problem of the pulsing dash lights and headlights - he is thinking it is a bad ground.
He was going to warm up the car for me, started it up, left my seat in the position I prefer and when he went to get out he tilted the steering column up to ease his departure and it shut the car off and completely down. The only things that gets power now are the headlights and dome lights and the little security light that has been flashing while the car was running is now flashing all the time.
While it may be a stretch could it have anything to do with the horn fuse or that little black box that has been made reference to?
Any and all ideas or suggestions would be genuinely appreciated. This is my third Nissan, my first Maxima - previously had a Sentra wagon and a Nissan NX 2000, and I have been without wheels since July of 06 and I am almost sick with disappointment that I am out of commission less than a week after I acquired the car. I want to drive my Maxima.
Thank you for whatever assistance you may be able to provide.
peace,
-jini
I am replying to this thread because it seems to come closest to the issue we are dealing with on my '91 Nissan Maxima. We have had the car for less than a week - bought it this past Monday morning and my husband had the day off and was going to try to get to the bottom of the problem of the pulsing dash lights and headlights - he is thinking it is a bad ground.
He was going to warm up the car for me, started it up, left my seat in the position I prefer and when he went to get out he tilted the steering column up to ease his departure and it shut the car off and completely down. The only things that gets power now are the headlights and dome lights and the little security light that has been flashing while the car was running is now flashing all the time.
While it may be a stretch could it have anything to do with the horn fuse or that little black box that has been made reference to?
Any and all ideas or suggestions would be genuinely appreciated. This is my third Nissan, my first Maxima - previously had a Sentra wagon and a Nissan NX 2000, and I have been without wheels since July of 06 and I am almost sick with disappointment that I am out of commission less than a week after I acquired the car. I want to drive my Maxima.
Thank you for whatever assistance you may be able to provide.
peace,
-jini
Newbie - Just Registered
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 3
anti theft system blocking power to ignition?
This is what we tried today and the results-
1. Upon examination of the ignition harness, no loose or damaged wiring was found.
2. Upon examination of the fuses, none were blown or damaged.
3. When testing the fuses only about half worked, those that required the key to be on didn't work.
4. Thinking it was an ignition or key switch issue, they started testing the wires that led into the ignition and there was no power on any of them or any of the wires that were coming out of the anti theft module.
5. Disconnecting box and fuse did turn off the security light but still did not allow the car to start.
Temporary fix - bypasing the anti theft sysetm - took a jumper and went from one of the constant power sources, it could have been the cigarette lighter fuse, not sure and jumped over to the engine control fuse with a link between the two fuses that allowed them to turn the car on. Turning the car off only turns off the cars accessories and the link to the fuse has to be pulled to actually turn the car off.
I am not sure what to ask at this point except for how we can disable the anti-theft system or reset it w/o such drastic measures or whatever the permanent solution to this issue may be. And if this is in anyway tied into our power pulsing issue.
1. Upon examination of the ignition harness, no loose or damaged wiring was found.
2. Upon examination of the fuses, none were blown or damaged.
3. When testing the fuses only about half worked, those that required the key to be on didn't work.
4. Thinking it was an ignition or key switch issue, they started testing the wires that led into the ignition and there was no power on any of them or any of the wires that were coming out of the anti theft module.
5. Disconnecting box and fuse did turn off the security light but still did not allow the car to start.
Temporary fix - bypasing the anti theft sysetm - took a jumper and went from one of the constant power sources, it could have been the cigarette lighter fuse, not sure and jumped over to the engine control fuse with a link between the two fuses that allowed them to turn the car on. Turning the car off only turns off the cars accessories and the link to the fuse has to be pulled to actually turn the car off.
I am not sure what to ask at this point except for how we can disable the anti-theft system or reset it w/o such drastic measures or whatever the permanent solution to this issue may be. And if this is in anyway tied into our power pulsing issue.
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